LoudBlunts
Well-Known Member
mandela strains are nice for sog
hashberry, satori, etc etc
hashberry, satori, etc etc
Any Indica-Dominant strain will do. If you are looking for commercial production (and you are not in a heavily saturated market) go with a bigbud or chronic cross. The BB X northern lights crosses yield big in 8 wks. If you are in it for the flavor and the high grab a berry cross or papaya. Not great yielder (kush liniage) but fuckin yummie. I'm growing Whiteberry now and it really tastes good now that it has cured a few weeks. I will be lucky to get it dialed up to more than about .75 grams/watt though.So pretty much every strain...
-Rubbermaid Roughneck 42 gal tub with lid x2 (second lid unnecessary but comes with purchase anyway)
-8' length of 3/4" PVC x1
-Clone Sprayers
-360 sprayers x12
-180 sprayers x16
-pump x1
-1 3/8" hole saw x1
-tap screw for spreader threads
-bur tool to smooth hole edges on lid
Good enough?
Can't you just grow for more card holders?The time has come to bid farewell to SOG fellas.
So pretty much every strain...
Any Indica-Dominant strain will do. If you are looking for commercial production (and you are not in a heavily saturated market) go with a bigbud or chronic cross. The BB X northern lights crosses yield big in 8 wks. If you are in it for the flavor and the high grab a berry cross or papaya. Not great yielder (kush liniage) but fuckin yummie. I'm growing Whiteberry now and it really tastes good now that it has cured a few weeks. I will be lucky to get it dialed up to more than about .75 grams/watt though.
Awesome posts as always, LB. Reasoned and experience-backed as always. Rep+ Good to have you hanging around.
A few points:
I love my air-bubbler in the res, and yes, no doubt, h2o2 is keeping the nasties at bay. All chem nutes all the time. Just as Al. B and Lucas (my other Cannhero) recommend.
Organic-hydro sounds like mess-soup to me.
I don't worry about bacterias or enzymes. I grow weed. lol
Could not agree more that soil was much more of a pain in the ass guessing game than the dro setup. I know exactly what my plants are eating at all times. Especially with the nice, already broken down and available, chemical soup they get. I am afirm beliver that stong plants are more about environment than the kinds of nutrition the plant takes up. As long as all the plants nutritional needs are met, I don't care where it comes from. Buds and plant mass are more about o2 in the roots aong with co2 and light in the room.
Cloning was easy from the begging for me once I got the cuts down. NO need for yet another tub setup cluttering my place. . Rockwool + moisture+ heatpad = profuse roots is 12-14 days. %100. I kill lots clones that are deamed "unworthy" but they are rooted, just not as robust as the stronger ones. I may go with rapidrooters when I run out of this batch or RW. RW is kinda a pain with the PH and water retention.
I see that causing more problems .... shock ... delay in product .... not worth it IMHO.Yo fellas, coming at you guys with some different questions.
2. Any truth to the thumb tac method for increasing trichome production at the end of the flowering stage? I read about a week before you harvest you should put thumb tacs into the nodes to stress the plant out. It reacts and produces more tricomes.
Please refer to the VERY FIRST POST OF THIS THREAD PLEASE and come back and ask your question again.I am wondering what you mean by the term ebb and flow hydroponic sog?(what is sog???) I am starting my first grow with a standard ebb and flow system and am wondering if my method could be considered soggy??? And what is a weed baron? NOt used to all this lingo. thanks for any replies
I gave away my Durban Poison mother plant. The smoke was OK but not my cup of tea. Too earthy and heady. I like a more fruity palate and good locking body stone.Yo fellas, coming at you guys with some different questions.
1. Is it true that switching my mothers from 24 hour light (400watt MH) to 20/4 or 18/6 will reduce the stretching that takes place when i move them into my flowering chamber (1000watt HPS)? I'm growing sativas and these bitches are tall as hell! Like five feet at 5 weeks.
No. Light cycle has nothing to do with stretch. It's about temp.
Where is my "Environment is everything" soap box .... There it is ..
To reduce the stretch the best way is to keep the night/day temps as close as possible in the first 3 weeks of flower. Keep the day temps cool and night temps warm so it stays within 5-7 degrees of each other. The larger temp difference you have from day to night the more stretch you will see.
This is, of course, not a magic solution. Sativas are stretchy bitches. That's the way it is.
2. Any truth to the thumb tac method for increasing trichome production at the end of the flowering stage? I read about a week before you harvest you should put thumb tacs into the nodes to stress the plant out. It reacts and produces more tricomes.
BOO. Try lowering the humidity for more tric output. This sounds painful to me and my plants.
3. What the hell is up with my plants? The 2nd set of plants I moved into my grow chamber (perpetual cycle) look all messed up. Towards the tops of the plants they are shooting branches out with just one leaf instead of 5. Check out the pictures.
Single leaf branches are a sign of major stress like reveg. I don't know enough about your op to comment further. Good luck!
The good looking plants are Power Skunks and Power Plants. Notice at the top the leaves are a limp on one of them. Does that mean something? The other pic with my hand in it is of my Durbon Poison.
Hmm...the light cycle did f up about 3 weeks ago when that batch was just 2 weeks or so old. Light went off for a few hours during light period. I suppose that could have done it?Single leaf branches are a sign of major stress like reveg. I don't know enough about your op to comment further. Good luck!