Advanced Stealth Hydro Bubbeponics Thread

Roseman thanks I have been following you in several places and

I have read a lot on many forums ...

but have not really understood....

if there is a relation to net pot size...

and plant size ....

Why do some, use 3.5" net pots and some use bigger sizes ..

Is it related to reservoir size and plant placement ...

or transplant and ease of removal in case of problems ...


I also have some confusion as to lighting ..

I see a lot of HPS light grows with incredible 1000W light systems

I'm sure these will produce Incredible yields ....

But most of us with modest means would like to grow the best we can

with more modest light sources ..

I have found that 65 watt CFL can generate 4,000 Lumens and cost

around $20 thats considering the fixture is pretty cheap too ...

Would a system consisting of 50,000 Lumens of these lights be Intense

enough to produce Quality yields ...

and would the space be restricted ...

because of light loss , as distance from bulbs increase ...

It seems that with lower wattage light systems ..

distance from the plants is critical ...

inches... relate to hundreds of lumen lost for plant growth

What strategy produces the best bang for the buck ...

Will surrounding my plants with lots of CFL

really get me the same results as intense HPS ..

Thanks....... Old Fat Dude
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
not sure if this is a noob ? can a mother plant get pollinated if it is not in the flower stage? i have a mother plant in the master bedroom closet and my flower room is the master bath. i had a plant in the flower room go hermi and i want to know if i can take clones off the mother plant. or if there is a way to tell if she got pollinated
i would assume no.Thats if no pollen gets on any calyx.Cant say for sure but i do know that if no pollen gets on the calyx it wont get pollinated.
 

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
not sure if this is a noob ? can a mother plant get pollinated if it is not in the flower stage? i have a mother plant in the master bedroom closet and my flower room is the master bath. i had a plant in the flower room go hermi and i want to know if i can take clones off the mother plant. or if there is a way to tell if she got pollinated
Yes.... It definitly can. I Have a white demon that's in flowering NOW, but before when she was in my veg room I had a male white demon plant that I grew out and left next to the Mother plant (I had read a thread which fdd did the same thing with great results as only the preflowers get pollinated). So you end up with about 30-40 seeds, normally one right at the bottom of each bud. Also you can pick them about 4 weeks into flowering as they will have developed earlier than the bud has. So the answer to your question is Yes. AS LONG AS THE PISTILS ARE SHOWING... you can tell if they got pollinated or not because as soon as they do, they brown up and shrivel off and the calyx becomes engorged.
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Roseman thanks I have been following you in several places and

I have read a lot on many forums ...

but have not really understood....

if there is a relation to net pot size...

and plant size ....

Why do some, use 3.5" net pots and some use bigger sizes ..

Is it related to reservoir size and plant placement ...

or transplant and ease of removal in case of problems ...

I think there is NO relationship of size of cup and plant size or yield. Most Hydro shops sell 3.5, 4, 5, and ten inch cups. Some only sell two sizes, 3.5 and 5. And people jsut use what they get. I've grown a plant 46 inches tall in a 3 and half inch cup.


I also have some confusion as to lighting ..

I see a lot of HPS light grows with incredible 1000W light systems

I'm sure these will produce Incredible yields ....

But most of us with modest means would like to grow the best we can

with more modest light sources ..

I have found that 65 watt CFL can generate 4,000 Lumens and cost

around $20 thats considering the fixture is pretty cheap too ...

Would a system consisting of 50,000 Lumens of these lights be Intense

enough to produce Quality yields ...

and would the space be restricted ...

because of light loss , as distance from bulbs increase ...

It seems that with lower wattage light systems ..

distance from the plants is critical ...

inches... relate to hundreds of lumen lost for plant growth

What strategy produces the best bang for the buck ...

Will surrounding my plants with lots of CFL

really get me the same results as intense HPS ..

Thanks....... Old Fat Dude
Man, thre are 10,000 threads on this site, arguing, CFLs vs HID lights.
To duplicate the sun, you need 10,000 lumens per sq ft of grow space. But you can grow with 2,000 lumens per sq ft and it will still grow.

Read up on this :CFL Tutorial - it tells you HOW MUCH LIGHT DO I NEED?
 

southern homegrower

Well-Known Member
Yes.... It definitly can. I Have a white demon that's in flowering NOW, but before when she was in my veg room I had a male white demon plant that I grew out and left next to the Mother plant (I had read a thread which fdd did the same thing with great results as only the preflowers get pollinated). So you end up with about 30-40 seeds, normally one right at the bottom of each bud. Also you can pick them about 4 weeks into flowering as they will have developed earlier than the bud has. So the answer to your question is Yes. AS LONG AS THE PISTILS ARE SHOWING... you can tell if they got pollinated or not because as soon as they do, they brown up and shrivel off and the calyx becomes engorged.
thanks for the info jonny.
 

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
no problem. Need to start up my new strains soon. Waiting on some supplies. Need some more hydroton. Think I'm going to start with the Widow and Trainwreck.
 

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
Here's a pic of a pollinated preflower. You can see it is much larger than it would be normally, and if you look close you can also see the orange shriveled up pistil.
 

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MostlyCrazy

New Member
Widow and trainwreck sounds great! I got some purple wreck seeds that I just don't have room for this next grow. I'm saving them for after I grow the next group, get some pollen and breed super plants! Hey, a guy can dream!
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
Oh darn the luck! LOL! Hoping for males is going to be a completely different experience! That's why I'm mass planting next time. No matter what, I got bud!
 

db297

Active Member
Jonny - A page or so ago, you said you needed to get some new hydroton. Do you start out with new hydroton every time you start a grow?
 
not sure if this is a noob ? can a mother plant get pollinated if it is not in the flower stage? i have a mother plant in the master bedroom closet and my flower room is the master bath. i had a plant in the flower room go hermi and i want to know if i can take clones off the mother plant. or if there is a way to tell if she got pollinated
No. There have to be pistils and calyxes, and such. Hermaphroditus is a genetic disorder that the mother of the hermaphrodite passed on( exact genetic match between mother and clone). This genetic defect emerges under stress, and sometimes just because. If that is the only mother, well, its a sad story. If you go on, pull the hermi and keep a good eye out for little nut sacks to show up tucked in among the buds. Pluck them as they show, to avoid seeding the crop. Hope this clears it up a little. As always, just my opinion.:weed:
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
One of the most aggrevating things I've ever attempted was calibrating a pH meter.
Makes me want to just pee straight up!
And what makes it worst, is having two pH meters to compare results.

Let me give you a heads up about calibrating a pH meter and using it. You have to just use it as a "rule of thumb" so to speak, and use it to try to stay within range.
For those that already know and those that do not, you can put an expensive $54 super-duper pH meter in water, test it, read it, get 6.8 and take it out, stick it back in, and it will be a little different, like 6.6. Shake it around in the water, stir it in the water and you'll get a different results, like 6.4, in the exact same water. Then take it out of the water, turn it off, and put it back in the same water, turn it back on in the water, and read 6.5, blow on it and get 6.9.
Temperature of water makes a big difference in the pH of water.
Shaking and stirring the meter in the water, makes a slight difference.
Turning it on IN the water and turning it on OUT of the water, makes a slight difference.
Turning it OFF and ON in the same water, makes a difference.
Waiting three minutes yields a different reading too.

I had year old calibration solution, but it was still clear looking and smelled OK. I used it and adjusted my meter, and then I used it and adjusted my meter, and then I used it and adjusted my meter, and then I used it and adjusted my meter, and then .......well,,,that took an hour.
I would put it in the 4.0 solution, get it to read 4.0 by adjusting it, (there is a SET SCREW you turn to make it go up or down) then put it in the 6.8 solution, it would read 7.1, I 'd turn it down to make it say 6.8, then try it again in the 4.0 and it would read 3.7!

After I spent an hour, spliting the difference, going back adn forth, it was very close to accurate to the calibration solution. In 6.8, it read 6.7, and in the 4.0, it read 4.1. Sounds good enough, huh?
Then, I checked it with my old meter, and good grief! The old meter said the 4.0 was 3.5 and the 6.8 was read as 6.2.
Took another hour to get the two meters to agree within .5 difference, which is really a broad difference, but one I will accept.
AND I am not even going to compate them to the tEST STRIPs tonight, although I will later.

If you ever want to really drive someone crazy, or start them drinking early, buy them TWO pH meters, and ask them to adjust and calibrate them to perform the same.

Anyway, I got two pH meters, fairly close to reading the smae, but not really. What's a pot head to do?

The pics show my efforts.
Attached Thumbnails
 
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