Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
at some shows, he actually performed laying down on his back, he was so stoned.
No, I haven't seen that movie.
Advanced Stealth Hydro Bubbeponics Thread
- Thread starter JonnyBtreed
- Start date
No, I haven't seen that movie.
db297
Active Member
Mr. Bob - Yea, I'm attaching the directions I got. It's in the very last paragraph.
Poop - it won't let ma attach it - says it's too big. Geesh, it's just a 2 page pdf.
Here's a copy/paste of the last paragraphs:
How external factors may affect readings
While pure water has a TDS well below 1 ppm, uncertainties from carbon dioxide in the air (which gets
into the water and ionizes to provide some conductivity) and the TDS meter itself may yield results of 1
or 2 ppm even from pure water
The entire electrode assembly must be submerged in the sample without a lot of bubbles or solids
present between the electrodes. So, for example, you cannot typically get a good reading by holding it in
a stream of tap water because air often gets between the electrodes that way (resulting in an artificially
low reading).into the water and ionizes to provide some conductivity) and the TDS meter itself may yield results of 1
or 2 ppm even from pure water
The entire electrode assembly must be submerged in the sample without a lot of bubbles or solids
present between the electrodes. So, for example, you cannot typically get a good reading by holding it in
a stream of tap water because air often gets between the electrodes that way (resulting in an artificially
SMOKEnCHOKE
Active Member
I ph after I add nutes and everything else... I don't measure ppms much anymore either....Lucas formula makes everything simple400, wow...i though i had it bad. you use it right? awesome, something we agree on.
and you guys ph before you add nutes? it comes out right in the end?
?
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
BubbleHeads, time to shine, Come add two cents to this one:
Attn Noobs: DO NOT expect any decent replies to your questions...
Attn Noobs: DO NOT expect any decent replies to your questions...
MostlyCrazy
New Member
I've found that on my testers it helps to shake them a bit (a few seconds) after I submerge it in the water. For some reason the readings always go down when I do it.
SlikWiLL13
Well-Known Member
my TDS meter does this as well, not always down though.
Mr.Bob Saget
Active Member
I've also done this with my continuous meter. I'm still having difference in readings from when there is a light on and from when it is off. A difference of 1ph now, and 1.5(F) degree of temp, which will make your EC change.. I'm thinking that calibrating wont change this, but maybe I should just try it before I email the manufacture, Hanna.
SMOKEnCHOKE
Active Member
Agreed
Mr.Bob Saget
Active Member
For a good laugh click here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJnCZOw3igY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJnCZOw3igY
SMOKEnCHOKE
Active Member
Am I the only one who doesn't change my rez every week? I use the lucas formula with daily addbacks and have only changed the rez once so far during flowering (5 weeks)....My ph doesn't move and the plants are perfect
Just curious what you all think
Just curious what you all think
MostlyCrazy
New Member
I know I do it every week or 10 days max. How does the lucas formala allow for a proper recharge. Can't argue with success, just wondering how it works. I'm ready to learn!
SMOKEnCHOKE
Active Member
I'm going to copy and paste it because there is no way I can explain it any better haha I do a daily addback of nutrient water so changing the rez isn't really necessary although if you use any organics I wouldn't take the chance of not changing it
General Hydroponics Flora Series Feeding Strategy - Lucas Formula
G-M-B (Grow-Micro-Bloom)
0-5-10 - For Vegetative cycle (18/6)
0-8-16 - For Flowering cycle (12/12)
The numbers above indicate the number of milliliters (ml) of Flora Grow, Micro or Bloom formulas that I use in one gallon (US Liquid) of nutrients.
You will notice I dont use any of the Flora “Grow” formula, do not need to, the Flora "Micro" provides plenty of Nitrogen.
There are two ways to work with this formula:
1. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected water solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. After adding back an amount of water equal to the amount of your reservoir capacity you should change the reservoir and put in fresh solution.
2. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected 100% strength nutrient solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. Continue to use this nutrient solution without dumping the tank unless the PPM rises above acceptable levels.
Between vegetative and flowering cycles you should dump your nutrients, then flush (possibly with Clearex) to remove salt buildups, then change to the other feeding program. Always shake your GH nutrient bottles before using them!
For young plants, just transplanted into the hydro setup, give them 50% strength nutrient mix to prevent overfeeding them while their young. Gradually bring up the mix to full strength as they grow over the next few weeks or so.
The lucas formula is normally intended for use with RO or near 0 PPM water.
NOTE: The Lucas formula eliminates the need for Epsom salts to correct (Magnesium) Mg deficiencies in most normal feeding programs recommended by manufacturers. Cannabis needs a lot of Magnesium to thrive.
Here is a link to a thread on here
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/4387-lucas-formula.html
General Hydroponics Flora Series Feeding Strategy - Lucas Formula
G-M-B (Grow-Micro-Bloom)
0-5-10 - For Vegetative cycle (18/6)
0-8-16 - For Flowering cycle (12/12)
The numbers above indicate the number of milliliters (ml) of Flora Grow, Micro or Bloom formulas that I use in one gallon (US Liquid) of nutrients.
You will notice I dont use any of the Flora “Grow” formula, do not need to, the Flora "Micro" provides plenty of Nitrogen.
There are two ways to work with this formula:
1. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected water solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. After adding back an amount of water equal to the amount of your reservoir capacity you should change the reservoir and put in fresh solution.
2. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected 100% strength nutrient solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. Continue to use this nutrient solution without dumping the tank unless the PPM rises above acceptable levels.
Between vegetative and flowering cycles you should dump your nutrients, then flush (possibly with Clearex) to remove salt buildups, then change to the other feeding program. Always shake your GH nutrient bottles before using them!
For young plants, just transplanted into the hydro setup, give them 50% strength nutrient mix to prevent overfeeding them while their young. Gradually bring up the mix to full strength as they grow over the next few weeks or so.
The lucas formula is normally intended for use with RO or near 0 PPM water.
NOTE: The Lucas formula eliminates the need for Epsom salts to correct (Magnesium) Mg deficiencies in most normal feeding programs recommended by manufacturers. Cannabis needs a lot of Magnesium to thrive.
Here is a link to a thread on here
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/4387-lucas-formula.html
Mr.Bob Saget
Active Member
Every two weeks is what I have done.
MostlyCrazy
New Member
Sounds interesting but I'll ned to change from my 400 ppm water. Good info t00 that "normal" feedings are mag deficient. That's why the cal-mag I use must have helped them.
db297
Active Member
MC - You use GH Floral series nutes. That's what I'm using. Sounds like I should start adding CalMag as well.
I'm going to be going to flowering here in about 9 days. Should I get CalMag for the flowering phase?? I'm going to be using "Big Bud Powder".
Thanks
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
I change mine EVERY week on Saturday, and if I get the time, I do it twice a week, just draining it and replacing it with the same water back.
Let me add that Roots love the AIR BATH they
get during a Drain and Replinish. This is a very important step. The more often you can do it, the faster the plants will grow.
Let me add that Roots love the AIR BATH they
get during a Drain and Replinish. This is a very important step. The more often you can do it, the faster the plants will grow.
MostlyCrazy
New Member
DB, Don't really know for sure. It worked for me and I can't see how it would do any harm. Since your plants look so good it might fall into that "don't fix it if it ain"t broke" category. I added mine in response to a mag problem on one of my first grow. If you do get it then I would go half dose and see what the plants think.
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
First you have to realize that the pH is going to change daily as the nutrients are eaten. That means adjusting it daily. Goal is that those daily changes be slight and not major. And too, different sources of water yield different pH problems.
You have to have pH balanced nutes, or a buffer or a stabilizer in the water to keep it from roller coasting and spiking up and down.
I've done some research on pH Control and I 'd like to offer some advice and my opinion.
NEW growers worry about it too too much, and the biggest mistake they make is trying for a perfect contstant same pH.
You will do better, to just try to keep it between 5.6 and 6.8 without changing it often. Plants eat more nitrogen at 5.7 to 5.9 than at 6.7 to 6.9. But they eat more iron and magnesium at 6.5 to 6.8. You need a fluctuating pH level for your plants to absorb different nutes at different levels.
When you get your water, add nutes and pH test it, no matter what the results, if it is between 5.6 and 6.4, leave it alone or only adjust it slightly by .1 to .2 down.
DO NOT PLAY the pH Game.
Do NOT ride the pH Roller Coaster.
It is better to be off, too high, or too low, than to adjust it too much at one time.
Drastic or FAST adjustments really mess up the entire system.
Adjust gradually, and slowly.
The pH should not vary more than .5 to .7 everyday, and if it does flucuate alot more up OR down daily, something is wrong.
First, ask yourself, IF growing in HYDRO, what is going into the tank? Water, Nutes, pH UP and Down should be it. Adding anything else, WHEN YOU DO NOT HAVE A PROBLEM, is not the wisest thing to do. (Yes, sometimes some small amount of peroxide or hydrozyme might be needed, but I've done 7 grows without it.)
And if you are making NUTE SOUP, ( a nute mix and supplement mix) I can not advise you about your pH.
Except for the very first time you add the water to the tank, You should pH balance your water FIRST, everytime, outside of the tank, then add the nutes, pH balance it again, then add it to the tank. It should not go up more than .5 within one day or 1.0 in two days.
If it does go up more in one day or two days, you got to do something to stabilize it. After the first two or 3 weeks pass, and the plants are drinking a gallon a day, you can add one gallon back that is over adjusted or over compensated, to get it back down. FOR EXAMPLE, If the tank is reading 7.2, then add one gallon of 6.0, and you'll get it down SOME, without it being too drastic.
DRASTIC pH CHANGES WITHIN 24 HOURS ARE VERY DANGEROUS.
OR
Try adding a lump of charcoal or two, tied in a panty hose or nylon stocking to the tank.
Go to Walmart or PetSmart to the Aquarium Dept, next to the fish food, filters and additives and sea salts, and get those little packages of Ammonia Control absorbent packets. They look like little sponges in a wrapper. I can not remember what they are called, but they work great to stabilize the pH. Or get the Ammonia control pellets and add a few to the tank.
Get everything in your tank like you want it, (except the roots or plants,) and add two heaping tablespoons of baking soda to a gallon of water,Stir it good, then add it to the tank. Wait ten or 15 minutes, then pH adjust it again. Then it should stay stabilized until the next Drain and Replenish.
A buffer solution is an aqueous solution consisting of a mixture of a weak acid and its conjugate base or a weak base and its conjugate acid. It has the property that the pH of the solution changes very little when a small amount of acid or base is added to it. Buffer solutions are used as a means of keeping pH at a nearly constant value in a wide variety of chemical applications.
You can simply add two heaping table spoons of baking soda to your water, (before yu put it in the tank). Yes, it will wreck the pH, but then you adjust it with pH Down, and then it will stay more stable for a few days.
Primarily what one needs to add to the water are neutralizers and buffers that will stabilize the acid and alkaline levels to the degree that is required for the plants. Most of these stabilizing products are sold in great volume at any pet store that specialized in aquariums and tropical fish and if one is not familiar with what product to purchase, then one should consult with the qualified salespeople so as to arrive at a specific product that will properly address the specific needs of the fish and their owner. You want something that rduces the acid.
instead of buying a buffer, you can simply put a cube of charcoal, or a lump of peat moss tied up in a nylon stocking, and add it to your tank.
You have to have pH balanced nutes, or a buffer or a stabilizer in the water to keep it from roller coasting and spiking up and down.
I've done some research on pH Control and I 'd like to offer some advice and my opinion.
NEW growers worry about it too too much, and the biggest mistake they make is trying for a perfect contstant same pH.
You will do better, to just try to keep it between 5.6 and 6.8 without changing it often. Plants eat more nitrogen at 5.7 to 5.9 than at 6.7 to 6.9. But they eat more iron and magnesium at 6.5 to 6.8. You need a fluctuating pH level for your plants to absorb different nutes at different levels.
When you get your water, add nutes and pH test it, no matter what the results, if it is between 5.6 and 6.4, leave it alone or only adjust it slightly by .1 to .2 down.
DO NOT PLAY the pH Game.
Do NOT ride the pH Roller Coaster.
It is better to be off, too high, or too low, than to adjust it too much at one time.
Drastic or FAST adjustments really mess up the entire system.
Adjust gradually, and slowly.
The pH should not vary more than .5 to .7 everyday, and if it does flucuate alot more up OR down daily, something is wrong.
First, ask yourself, IF growing in HYDRO, what is going into the tank? Water, Nutes, pH UP and Down should be it. Adding anything else, WHEN YOU DO NOT HAVE A PROBLEM, is not the wisest thing to do. (Yes, sometimes some small amount of peroxide or hydrozyme might be needed, but I've done 7 grows without it.)
And if you are making NUTE SOUP, ( a nute mix and supplement mix) I can not advise you about your pH.
Except for the very first time you add the water to the tank, You should pH balance your water FIRST, everytime, outside of the tank, then add the nutes, pH balance it again, then add it to the tank. It should not go up more than .5 within one day or 1.0 in two days.
If it does go up more in one day or two days, you got to do something to stabilize it. After the first two or 3 weeks pass, and the plants are drinking a gallon a day, you can add one gallon back that is over adjusted or over compensated, to get it back down. FOR EXAMPLE, If the tank is reading 7.2, then add one gallon of 6.0, and you'll get it down SOME, without it being too drastic.
DRASTIC pH CHANGES WITHIN 24 HOURS ARE VERY DANGEROUS.
OR
Try adding a lump of charcoal or two, tied in a panty hose or nylon stocking to the tank.
Go to Walmart or PetSmart to the Aquarium Dept, next to the fish food, filters and additives and sea salts, and get those little packages of Ammonia Control absorbent packets. They look like little sponges in a wrapper. I can not remember what they are called, but they work great to stabilize the pH. Or get the Ammonia control pellets and add a few to the tank.
Get everything in your tank like you want it, (except the roots or plants,) and add two heaping tablespoons of baking soda to a gallon of water,Stir it good, then add it to the tank. Wait ten or 15 minutes, then pH adjust it again. Then it should stay stabilized until the next Drain and Replenish.
A buffer solution is an aqueous solution consisting of a mixture of a weak acid and its conjugate base or a weak base and its conjugate acid. It has the property that the pH of the solution changes very little when a small amount of acid or base is added to it. Buffer solutions are used as a means of keeping pH at a nearly constant value in a wide variety of chemical applications.
You can simply add two heaping table spoons of baking soda to your water, (before yu put it in the tank). Yes, it will wreck the pH, but then you adjust it with pH Down, and then it will stay more stable for a few days.
Primarily what one needs to add to the water are neutralizers and buffers that will stabilize the acid and alkaline levels to the degree that is required for the plants. Most of these stabilizing products are sold in great volume at any pet store that specialized in aquariums and tropical fish and if one is not familiar with what product to purchase, then one should consult with the qualified salespeople so as to arrive at a specific product that will properly address the specific needs of the fish and their owner. You want something that rduces the acid.
instead of buying a buffer, you can simply put a cube of charcoal, or a lump of peat moss tied up in a nylon stocking, and add it to your tank.
tSunami13
Active Member
I change weekly.
Just gonna share with you all my planted fish aquarium water experiences.
The cal-mag will help in some situations. If the water being used is very pure or dead such as RO water which has nothing in it. I know the water in my city is treated very well, or better yet at the beginning of the flow so it has some of the minerals still. I do have soft tap water and could benefit from the cal-mag.
I have raised Discus (tropical fish) for 8 plus years. I went through many plants and struggles trying to create a "natural" environment for the fish. If any one out there has tried
to do a fish and densely planted aquarium, you know it is futile. To hard to dose nutes with fishy's swimming, maintaing ph, and so on... I was always adding Iron which is in one
of the cal-mag products..So that got me thinking about fish/aquarium because of the water struggles, and many variables. I was also running co2 in the fish tank. Talk about ph fluctuations.
Just reading up on the grow bible and Mag is essential for light absorption. Also says common to be deficient indoors. Epson salts are a cheap alternative (use plant type not supermarket). Calcium deficiency is not common indoors, but the plant usually can process more then what is available from the grow bible. Iron is used in photosyn. and is a common deficiency when ph above 6.5,
uncommon under 6.5. Calcium and Magnesium are the secondary nutrients which are commonly left out of nutrients, along with the micro's which is why the three part nute (grow, bloom, micro)
systems are out there to cover most situations. The more nutes/chemicals are separated the better the quality and more unstable they are in concentrations with each other. For an all in one nute everything has to be stable with each other so not as much of choice in chemicals. I know I have ruined many a mL's of nutes not diluting stuff. Doh Stuff kinda turns into liquid cement.
Just gonna share with you all my planted fish aquarium water experiences.
The cal-mag will help in some situations. If the water being used is very pure or dead such as RO water which has nothing in it. I know the water in my city is treated very well, or better yet at the beginning of the flow so it has some of the minerals still. I do have soft tap water and could benefit from the cal-mag.
I have raised Discus (tropical fish) for 8 plus years. I went through many plants and struggles trying to create a "natural" environment for the fish. If any one out there has tried
to do a fish and densely planted aquarium, you know it is futile. To hard to dose nutes with fishy's swimming, maintaing ph, and so on... I was always adding Iron which is in one
of the cal-mag products..So that got me thinking about fish/aquarium because of the water struggles, and many variables. I was also running co2 in the fish tank. Talk about ph fluctuations.
Just reading up on the grow bible and Mag is essential for light absorption. Also says common to be deficient indoors. Epson salts are a cheap alternative (use plant type not supermarket). Calcium deficiency is not common indoors, but the plant usually can process more then what is available from the grow bible. Iron is used in photosyn. and is a common deficiency when ph above 6.5,
uncommon under 6.5. Calcium and Magnesium are the secondary nutrients which are commonly left out of nutrients, along with the micro's which is why the three part nute (grow, bloom, micro)
systems are out there to cover most situations. The more nutes/chemicals are separated the better the quality and more unstable they are in concentrations with each other. For an all in one nute everything has to be stable with each other so not as much of choice in chemicals. I know I have ruined many a mL's of nutes not diluting stuff. Doh Stuff kinda turns into liquid cement.
hater hurter
Active Member
i was wondering if it would hurt to change it more than every ten days. i'll probably start doing it every week too now.