NooB Advice

blower

Active Member
i have a time meter two of them one that has a green prong with a red prong and you put them on the hours. the other is from radioshack and it says to push down the black sides that you want the light on.. i triedto function both of them and they dont work right for me, i come home and the light is still on or off early??? help
here is my set up have been at it since Nov. light hours=18/6
MG peat moss,blackgold soil,and feed it at times those plant food pellets.
medicine bought- two tall females were like a foot tall...no real change with them, just some leaves either getting dark green,dry, or some spots.????
-6 clones were 6in. now about 12in. leaves are getting sticky crystalii good sign??? white pistils and good danky smellz.
the nutes i havent bought low money, but will go with big bloom? that is for veg. stage right?
I need suggestions on what cfls to buy,how many more?- a better setup?
will a 400wt. hps system be enough for all of them??
on soil i will buy foxfarm-ocean forest.
all help needed
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
i have a time meter two of them one that has a green prong with a red prong and you put them on the hours. the other is from radioshack and it says to push down the black sides that you want the light on.. i triedto function both of them and they dont work right for me, i come home and the light is still on or off early??? help
here is my set up have been at it since Nov. light hours=18/6
MG peat moss,blackgold soil,and feed it at times those plant food pellets.
medicine bought- two tall females were like a foot tall...no real change with them, just some leaves either getting dark green,dry, or some spots.????
-6 clones were 6in. now about 12in. leaves are getting sticky crystalii good sign??? white pistils and good danky smellz.
the nutes i havent bought low money, but will go with big bloom? that is for veg. stage right?
I need suggestions on what cfls to buy,how many more?- a better setup?
will a 400wt. hps system be enough for all of them??
on soil i will buy foxfarm-ocean forest.
all help needed
Did ya read the thread? we're in the middle of a class that answers most of your questions, I don't mind answering you but your questions are pretty vague and pics would help

as to what I can answer big bloom is for flower

get a $6 brinks timer from walmart it has lots of little switches all around turn half on and leave half off it's what I use and is dead on (so far)

food pellets are bad, no control can't be in charge of your garden if your not in control

400 watt hps would be good for 6 small plants but I like CMH over HPS

Good Luck with your grow
 

jumboSWISHER

Well-Known Member
holy fucking shit, thats crazy you brought up flushing.... about an hour ago i had a plumber at my house putting in a new water heater and i had my 3 dogs and cat in my bedroom cuz the fence wus open n they kept gettn out, but ne ways while all this wus happening my fucking cat PISSED IN MY POT......wtf.. well i dug up all the "wet" soil with gloves on and put new soil on. but should i flush, idk if itll jus push the cat piss to the roots or should i jus let her dry out??? should i b expecting a dead plant in the morning??
 

goofygolfer

Well-Known Member
:sleep:i just spent the better part of 2 hrs reading and rereading this thread .and a lot of this we know . let me explain. when in school and listening tho the weather channel we learned about temps and humidity ,:dunce: but sometimes it really doesnt dawn on you until its broken down in laymans terms OMG this thread has been an eye opener.
 

goofygolfer

Well-Known Member
hehe i 'll bet . now on to flushing . here's my take and dont beat me up to bad cause i haven't done all the required reading . also i use dwc . i think flushing is used to help remove excess salts in the res .they also get an air bath with the res change
 

jumboSWISHER

Well-Known Member
when flushing in soil- flushing will clean your soil and roots, like a refreshing shower. it pushes all the old built up nutes/products you use in your water out of the soil, usually it will cure nute burn, and PH problems(if flushed properly)
 

jumboSWISHER

Well-Known Member
so i jus got done wit the flush =) its goona b a bitch takin that big ass girl upstairs lol but thanks a ton riddleme =)
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
Ok back to flushing

I have read the forum stuff blah blah blah

and we all remember what UB said plant's not a toilet

there is no way you can flush bad tasting nutes out of it what is in there is in there, running water thru the soil is not going to suck N out of the plant or P or K or worm farts

So can any one tell me the basis of these myths???
 

jumboSWISHER

Well-Known Member
from my experience, when i first started this grow probly within the first month i believed flushing wus horrible for plants and that it sucked all nutes out of my plants when really, i flushed wrong and got my soil so compacted that there wusnt ne oxygen in the soil, i think this is the biggest problem people have while flushing, BUT ima do sum reading ill b bak with the RIGHT answer later on...:-P lol
 

jumboSWISHER

Well-Known Member
wow, just found this is on of UB's threads. it explained to damn much about nutes/pre harvest flushing. i learned alot, i think alot of people also will =)
A critical look at preharvest flushing

Added by: snoofer Last edited by: vaaran Viewed: 460 times Rated by 32 users: 9.16/10Contributed by: vaaran
Submitted: November 15th, 2004

Pre harvest flushing is a controversial topic. Flushing is supposed to improve taste of the final bud by either giving only pure water, clearing solutions or extensive flushing for the last 7-14 days of flowering. While many growers claim a positive effect, others deny any positive influence or even suggest reduced yield and quality.

The theory of pre harvest flushing is to remove nutrients from the grow medium/root zone. A lack of nutrients creates a deficiency, forcing the plant to translocate and use up its internal nutrient compounds.

Nutrient fundamentals and uptake:

The nutrient uptake process is explained in this faq.

A good read about plant nutrition can be found here.

Until recently it was common thought that all nutrients are absorbed by plant roots as ions of mineral elements. However in newer studies more and more evidence emerged that additionally plant roots are capable of taking up complex organic molecules like amino acids directly thus bypassing the mineralization process.

The major nutrient uptake processes are:

1) Active transport mechanism into root hairs (the plant has to put energy in it, ATP driven) which is selective to some degree. This is one way the plant (being immobile) can adjust to the environment.

2) Passive transport (diffusion) through symplast to endodermis.

http://www.biol.sc.edu/courses/bio102/f99-3637.html

http://www.hort.wisc.edu/cran/Publications/2001 Proceedings/min_nutr.pdf

The claim only ‘chemical’ ferted plants need to be flushed should be taken with a grain of salt. Organic and synthetic ferted plants take up mineral ions alike, probably to a different degree though. Many influences play key roles in the taste and flavor of the final bud, like the nutrition balance and strength throughout the entire life cycle of the plant, the drying and curing process and other environmental conditions.

3) Active transport mechanism of organic molecules into root hairs via endocytosis.

http://acd.ucar.edu/~eholland/encyc6.html

Here is a simplified overview of nutrient functions:

Nitrogen is needed to build chlorophyll, amino acids, and proteins. Phosphorus is necessary for photosynthesis and other growth processes. Potassium is utilized to form sugar and starch and to activate enzymes. Magnesium also plays a role in activating enzymes and is part of chlorophyll. Calcium is used during cell growth and division and is part of the cell wall. Sulfur is part of amino acids and proteins.

Plants also require trace elements, which include boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, sodium, zinc, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, and silicon.

Copper, iron, and manganese are used in photosynthesis. Molybdenum, nickel, and cobalt are necessary for the movement of nitrogen in the plant. Boron is important for reproduction, while chlorine stimulates root growth and development. Sodium benefits the movement of water within the plant and zinc is neeeded for enzymes and used in auxins (organic plant hormones). Finally, silicon helps to build tough cell walls for better heat and drought tolerance.

http://www.sidwell.edu

You can get an idea from this how closely all the essential elements are involved in the many metabolic processes within the plant, often relying on each other.

Nutrient movement and mobility inside the plant:

Besides endocytosis, there are two major pathways inside the plant, the xylem and the phloem. When water and minerals are absorbed by plant roots, these substances must be transported up to the plant's stems and leaves for photosynthesis and further metabolic processes. This upward transport happens in the xylem. While the xylem is able to transport organic compounds, the phloem is much more adapted to do so.

The organic compounds thus originating in the leaves have to be moved throughout the plant, upwards and downwards, to where they are needed. This transport happens in the phloem. Compounds that are moving through the phloem are mostly:
Sugars as sugary saps, organic nitrogen compounds (amino acids and amides, ureides and legumes), hormones and proteins.

http://www.sirinet.net

Not all nutrient compounds are moveable within the plant.

1) N, P, K, Mg and S are considered mobile: they can move up and down the plant in both xylem and phloem.
Deficiency appears on old leaves first.

2) Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn are considered immobile: they only move up the plant in the xylem.
Deficiency appears on new leaves first.

http://generalhorticulture.tamu.edu

Storage organelles:

Salts and organic metabolites can be stored in storage organelles. The most important storage organelle is the vacuole, which can contribute up to 90% of the cell volume. The majority of compounds found in the vacuole are sugars, polysaccharides, organic acids and proteins though.

http://jeb.biologists.org.pdf

Translocation:

Now that the basics are explained, we can take a look at the translocation process. It should be already clear that only mobile elements can be translocated through the phloem. Immobile elements cant be translocated and are not more available to the plant for further metabolic processes and new plant growth.

Since flushing (in theory) induces a nutrient deficiency in the rootzone, the translocation process aids in the plants survival. Translocation is transportation of assimilates through the phloem from source (a net exporter of assimilate) to sink (a net importer of assimilate). Sources are mostly mature fan leaves and sinks are mostly apical meristems, lateral meristem, fruit, seed and developing leaves etc.

You can see this by the yellowing and later dying of the mature fan leaves from the second day on after flushing started. Developing leaves, bud leaves and calyxes don’t serve as sources, they are sinks. Changes in those plant parts are due to the deficient immobile elements which start to indicate on new growth first.

Unfortunately, several metabolic processes are unable to take place anymore since other elements needed are no longer available (the immobile ones). This includes processes where nitrogen and phosphorus, which have likely the most impact on taste, are involved.

For example nitrogen: usually plants use nitrogen to form plant proteins. Enzyme systems rapidly reduce nitrate-N (NO3-) to compounds that are used to build amino-nitrogen which is the basis for amino acids. Amino acids are building blocks for proteins, most of them are plant enzymes responsible for all the chemical changes important for plant growth.

Sulfur and calcium among others have major roles in production and activating of proteins, thereby decreasing nitrate within the plant. Excess nitrate within the plant may result from unbalanced nutrition rather than an excess of nitrogen.

http://muextension.missouri.edu

Summary:

Preharvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are loosing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with preharvest flushing.

Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on unflushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or overfert and unproper drying/curing.
 

HomeGrown420baby

Well-Known Member
Sorry it took me so long to get back to this, I have been fairly busy


I should have used the word "specific" here it is well known that mother nature adds nutes in the form of natural decay. Things die and are leeched back into the soil, it's how mother nature works, But she does not add specific nutes at specific times. She does not instruct a bat to pop on a plant to make its buds bigger


Actually mollasses is much more, and while over a period of time these things are added naturally, my statement remains true, she does not add mollasses


whats ur point? r u telling noobs dont worry about molasses and nutrients cuz when they grow in the wild(which they dont) they dont recieve any? how many grows u got under ur belt? lets see some pics from ur grows
 

HomeGrown420baby

Well-Known Member
Ok back to flushing

I have read the forum stuff blah blah blah

and we all remember what UB said plant's not a toilet

there is no way you can flush bad tasting nutes out of it what is in there is in there, running water thru the soil is not going to suck N out of the plant or P or K or worm farts

So can any one tell me the basis of these myths???
u FORCE ur plant to use its stored energy ur not flushing it out of ur plant ur flushing it out of ur soil so it doesnt eat the nutrients in ur soil anymore..a plant has about 30days worth of stored up energy at the end of flowerig

i flush 2-3 times at the end of flowering..with 6gallons and i grow in 3gallon pots
 

jumboSWISHER

Well-Known Member
here's some pics i took today..i FIM'd one of them to see how it comes out compared to just letting them go..their looking way better tho..alot greener:leaf:
Attached Thumbnails




just putting it out there, how can you judge somebody elses way of growing when from the looks of ur plants ur methods are deffinatly not perfect....
 

jumboSWISHER

Well-Known Member
not saying ur plants are shitty or unhealthy, but that lil cfl has grow a healthier plant then wutever you use....
 

HomeGrown420baby

Well-Known Member
haha read the whole thread n check out my albums..i got those for FREE from my boy and they were rooted like crazy in rockwool cubes that were stuck together so they were fighting eachother for food..my boy shoulda had em in soil already..had to rip them apart (the roots) cuz they were growing into eachother..and there in cups cuz i have no room for em i already got 6other plants..they look way better then when i got em..the pic u put up is how they look now check out this pic to see how they looked when i got em and u b the judge..this pic is 10days ago
 

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