DIY Air Pruning Pot Experiment - Pictures

[Hobbes]

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I've been thinking a lot about developing a better root system, looking for bigger yields and perhaps better potency and quicker harvests. There are several commercial choices from porcipine like hard plastic wraps

to soft bags

or a chemical paint, like Spin-Out, for the inside of the pots.

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I need a rigid bucket for low stress training, and I have a couple dozen 5 gallon buckets that I'd like to convert.

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1. Drill a 1/2" hole every 1" center. Drill a 1/4" hole between the 1/2" holes. I put pro mix in the bucket to make it more rigid and the drilling was much easier.

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2. I lined the bucket with fiberglass screen to keep the Pro Mix from falling out of the holes.

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The plant goes into veg for 2 weeks under a 150W HPS, I'll train the plant a bit each day and in two or three days the two stems will be bent in semi circles. Then I'll train the branches to grow up and it's a nice scrog style grow.

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I'll follow this plant through flower to see if it performs better than usual, after I harvest I'll check the root system. And post pictures of both.

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[Hobbes]

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by Poppinfresh

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What is Root air pruning?


"An air-pruning propagation system is a low-cost, efficient method of propagating cuttings, seedlings or container plants for restoration projects. Air pruning happens naturally when roots are exposed to air in the absence of high humidity. The roots are effectively “burned” off, causing the plant to constantly produce new and healthy branching roots. If roots are not exposed to air, they continue to grow around the container in a constricted pattern. The roots may spiral, twist, kink or become strangled. When the plant is later installed it will likely fail to establish a normal root structure, and instead will have reduced uptake of water and nutrients. Eventually abnormal growth should be obvious and could cause the plant to fail. Damaged root systems also cause leaves to turn yellow or brown, shrivel or drop. Healthy, highly branched root structures allow a plant to more efficiently uptake water and nutrients while increasing growth and overall plant health." ( This information is not my own it was taken from Guidebook for Native Plant Propagation, Author: Julia Walker)

Advantages of air-pruning:

· promotes branched root systems

· encourages new roots to sprout

· prevents roots from spiraling

· prevents plants from becoming pot-bound

· plants may remain in pots, plugs or plant bands longer

Examples of natural air pruning pots:

The Super Roots AirPot. Also a great video to watch How air pots work.

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RootMaker system:

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Here is a great picture that shows the efficenty of this system. RootMaker also makes liners and indivdual pots. Check it out http://www.rootmaker.com/rootmakersystem.php

These are just a few examples. Once you get the concept of it you could easily and cheaply design a system on your own.

Now onto chemical root pruning. This thread off of RIU shows Mogie using Griffin's Spin-Out. If you read the thread and look at the pics the stuff really works. A word of caution on chemical root pruining. This study done by, Carl Whitcomb, Ph.D. titled "Improving Containers Copper is Not the Answer"

"Improving Containers Copper is Not the Answer" questions whether or not copper spayed on the inside effects the plants growth. One big idea he proposed was "Mycorrhizal fungi that aid growth of most plants are also killed along with
other beneficial microorganisms" inside copper sprayed pots. This is disturbing considering how much the micro herd is needed to get full lush plants in organic soil growing.


This link:http://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/50...BitchRoots.jpg shows roots growing in a TAG environment. TAG stands for True Aeroponic Growing. The branching on the root structure looks similar to what you are trying to archive with air pruning.

I am doing all this research because I will be doing a Hydroponic/Organic Soil showdown. I will atempt to grow one female specimine in an undecided hydro setup, and one in organic soil ( either foxfarms or my own mix). I will use the same genetics either from seed or from clones taken at the same time from the same mother plant.​

By doing these test's I hope to put to rest the debate whether hydro or soil is better. Now when i say "better" I mean:

• Better or equal yeild
• Better flavor
• More bag appeal
• A more natural experience

To test the "Flavor" portion of the test will grow a second set of plants. These will be tomatoes. Everybody loves tomatoes, and i can get a unbiased response from friends and family. I will still have a flavor test for the meds, but the test subjects wont know whether they are smoking hydro or organic soil buds. Neither will the person who gives the test.

This all started when I saw this:

Granted much of its size can be attributed to its genetics. But the fact still remain it was grown in the soil with organic teas and fertilizer.

The earth is 4.5 billion years old. With that much time for plants to evolve they are perfect. Plant life is estimated to be around 425 million years old. With 425 million years of evolution under their belts plants are perfectly adapted to their environment. To my knowledge all strains of Cannabis are found growing in soil and not water. Since after all those years wild Cannabis has chosen to grow in soil over water, soil must be the BEST place fo it to grow. I doubt whether 425 million years of evolution can be beat by NASA scientist and their hydroponic/aeroponics systems. Mabey those systems are best for growing in confinded spaces like the space station.

Something else interesting. I know you have all seen movies and pictures depiction dinosaurs. Well did you every look at the plants? About 300 million years ago during the Triassic period the estimated Co2 concentration was around 2000-1800 ppm. With an average temp of 68F. Plants and trees were HUGE around this time. They had to be to feed the huge dinos that were herbivores. 68F and 1500 ppm co2 are almost the ideal ranges indoor growers look for. Take a look:

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[That 5hit]

WOW i like it
how do you keep from getting water all over the floor
i thought about trying this with putting a lot of straws in the soil leading to the root zone
i see the park district kibda does this to young tress they plant around the city except they are only trying to get more 02 to the root system
[youtube]Wc9UgBup7vg[/youtube][youtube]qTjNjDHTQi4[/youtube]

check out the smart pot its made out of some type of fabric but does the samething

[youtube]QEO9sv2t_gw[/youtube][youtube]rwsyJhMRww8[/youtube]

2. I lined the bucket with fiberglass screen to keep the Pro Mix from falling out of the holes.

idk
maybe this was all you needed and cut large square holes into the sides of the buckits
to hold up the fabric like a frame

im also thinking you should place a fan at buckit level pointed right at them holes

 

[Hobbes]

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"how do you keep from getting water all over the floor."

I use large trays under each bucket, there are holes in the bottom already. I'm going to mold the top of the Pro Mix into a bowl and let most of the water be absorbed into the middle of the root ball, then outward by osmosis. There will probably still be some leakage, I'll have to figure something out as I go. I left the bottom 2" of the bucket without holes.

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"maybe this was all you needed and cut large square holes into the sides of the buckits"

I'm thinking that too. I was worried about the bucket losing stregnth or mix falling out. The next bucket I'm going to use a 1" or 2" hole saw, go for more mix open to the air.

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What would the fan be for? To dry the mix or kill the root tip?

I'm concerned about the bucket drying out quicker from evaporation, I may have to cut my nutes to make up for evaporation.

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[That 5hit]

idk acording to the videos
its all about getting air to the roots i think more then having the roots prune themselfes
like with hydro
watch that 2cd or 3rd video

 

[NickNasty]

That 5hit, If that were true then why would chemical pruning work? Im sure the air helps but the pruning also has something to with it.Anyways I was thinking about doing DIY air pots too and I have a couple ideas.
1. I was thinking about making Air Pot grow bags, Im sure you have all seen the grow bags you can get like 100 for 20$

Well the holes in the bottom are just made with a hole punch so I was thinking why not do that all the way up the bag? You can even fold it up and punch multiple holes at a time.

2. Have you seen this DIY version? It's just a Non slip mat that you put under things to keep them from slipping they just used zip ties to connect it together. And you can cut it to any size you want.
http://www.rvtoyoutlet.com/p-RV5400.html

I had some more ideas but I can't think of them right now but I will be sure to post when I remember.

 

[cowboylogic]

I have tried the rubber mats, worked pretty well. Until..... About 11 weeks into the grow the bags began to breakdown and come apart. I think it was the lights breaking down the rubber, it became somewhat brittle. Just a guess, not actually sure, so I have not tried it since. Nice job Hobbs, will be interested on the outcome.

 

[That 5hit]

yeah i think they may have started to biodegrade
thats the only problem with diy
you take a chance with using something for a differant purpose then it intended origenal use
the cloth that they are using in that video as to be made out of some type a non-degradable materal
i thint the OP was close by using fiberglass

 

[Jester88]

subscribed....

theres a few things i want to chat about and that but just subscribing for now....

 

[dirrtyd]

Subscribed liking this idea could use a #5 pot with the holes and a #7 to water in. I would love to try this on one plant this year outside. Can I get the screen at HD?

 

[That 5hit]

my question is
is the fiberglass safe
how much and how much (price and size)
would it ever start to break down
would it be reusable

 

[That 5hit]

Subscribed liking this idea could use a #5 pot with the holes and a #7 to water in. I would love to try this on one plant this year outside. Can I get the screen at HD?

what are #5 and #7 pots
are you talking gallons

 

[NickNasty]

my question is
is the fiberglass safe
how much and how much (price and size)
would it ever start to break down
would it be reusable

Fiberglass comes in many different types but its basically either exactly what it sounds like, glass pulled to a fiber like consistency Or glass reinforced plastic which is what I believe hobbes is using. The main safety issue with it is breathing it in but that shouldn't be a problem with the glass reinforced plastic type. I have no idea how long it would take to break down but I would think it would last a few grows.You could probably also just drill smaller holes and you wouldn't need the screen. I hope this answered some of your questions

 

[That 5hit]

Fiberglass comes in many different types but its basically either exactly what it sounds like, glass pulled to a fiber like consistency Or glass reinforced plastic which is what I believe hobbes is using. The main safety issue with it is breathing it in but that shouldn't be a problem with the glass reinforced plastic type. I have no idea how long it would take to break down but I would think it would last a few grows.You could probably also just drill smaller holes and you wouldn't need the screen. I hope this answered some of your questions

if its cheap enuff , i would only need it to last 1 grow
on those videos i see the guys rip the roots out and the bag dont look reusable but i could be wrong
the pots do look reusable

 

[cannasseur805]

looks good cant wait to see results...

 

[Don Gin and Ton]

subbed for the ride hobbes

ill post up my airpot comparison in this journo if thats kool with you !?

 

[Jester88]

no you go to hell.. you go to hell and you die (jester says in his best cartman mimmic voice) j.j

i think it would be rather cool to see the comparison

 

[Don Gin and Ton]

weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell karls moms a bitch she's the biggest bitch in the whole wide world

 

[Hobbes]

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The Roots

The magic chemistry of plant growth starts at the roots. Roots send nutrients (in exchange for sugar) up through leaf stems to the leaves for final processing. They are also large storage sites for excess energy from the leaves, which is stored as starch. The roots and their capacity to store starch will decide how well a plant will grow and how much the plant will yield.

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Root size: A research Rye plant in a 12-inch pot had 14 billion root hairs that, if placed end to end, would have stretched 6,200 miles (almost 10,000 kilometres). The root hairs alone would have covered a square area of 180 ft by 180 ft (about 55 m by 55 m)! The more extensive the root system, the better the plant will grow. This is because roots storing much energy are able to exchange lots of nutrients up to the leaves, and so the leaves can send down more sugar, etc. Thus, root growth is directly affected by moisture, oxygen, temperature, and sugars sent down from the leaves.

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Root medium is important for plant growth. The less energy the roots use to absorb water and nutrients from their surrounding medium, the more they can use that energy to grow and to help send nutrients up to the plant. Most of a plant's water is taken in by the root hairs. 99% of the water taken in by a plant is transpired out through the leaves. A plant will fall over and wilt as a result of its roots not being able to extract any more water from the surroundings. (See Mediums for Growing)

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Air roots: in a plant's natural life in the earth, its roots get moisture from rainfall. After rain, the soil water soon sinks down and the topsoil dries quickly. For this reason, the top 1/3 of plant roots are air specialized and the bottom 1/3 are water roots. One must be careful not to keep the air specialized roots constantly wet or the plant will drown. The bottom section of roots can be constantly wet provided that the water has oxygen in it. Stagnant water will soon kill the plant. The roots should always look crisp and white. If the roots develop brown tips or general browning, the problem is usually lack of oxygen, and infection will soon follow.​

A plant can function quite well with its roots exposed to light as long as they do not dry out. However, the light encourages alga growth, which causes odors, and the alga competes with the plant for nutrients in the light period and oxygen in the dark period.

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Oxygen is the most important root requirement because the roots need oxygen to convert sugar to energy. The more oxygen available to the roots, the more energy they can transfer to the plant.

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Temperature also affects root growth and function. The roots do a great deal of their storage developing at night when the green sections of the plant are not being pressured by the light to produce and distribute the day's excess sugar to the roots. Roots function more efficiently when they are warm, so roots in warm dark period develop better structures than those grown in cool dark period. As an illustration, a cycle of warm dark 77°F (25°C) and day 59°F (15°C) would develop better roots than a cycle of cool dark 59°F (15°C) and day 77°F (25°C). In essence, plants will grow better with a high average 24-hour root temperature that is constant rather than fluctuating.​

Roots: the root hair zone is relatively small and starts just behind the growing root cap. This zone advances with the growing roots and as the new hairs near the tip emerge, the older hairs die I off. Here is where most water and nutrients are absorbed. So for fast growth, plant roots must not be allowed to become rootbound but be kept healthy and advancing at maximum throughout the entire life of the plant. When growing in pots that are too small, it is better to have the roots trim themselves by coating the inside of pots with a special copper paint rather than letting the roots circle and girdle themselves. In general, pots are not oxygen efficient for super plant growth. Remember that plant yield is proportional to root size.

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The Stems

The stems serve as supply pipes between the roots and the leaves.

Shorter stems are better because the nutrients have less distance to travel between the roots and the leaves. This affects the whole plant since it does not have to lift the water too high, the plant conserves energy - that energy can then be used for extra yield.

http://www.hydroempire.com/store/hydroponic-plant-parts.php

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[Hobbes]

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1. Root Tips

The growing tip of roots is protected by a root cap consisting of concentric layers of cells surrounding the apical meristem where new root cells are produced. The surface of the root cap of growing roots is often covered by a thick layer of mucilage (Rougier & Chaboud 1985).

When roots stop growing the root cap may be protected by suberisation of its outermost cells, as is shown below. These metacutinised root tips would generally not be produced by annual species such as crop plants, but are commonly produced by perennial plants such as trees (Romberger 1963, Brundrett & Kendrick 198.

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