BooMeR242
Well-Known Member
thanks for the info ill have to see where i can find that spray and get on it today. hopefully it cleans everything up
BooMer's 5000w Medical Hydro Cannabis Laboratory w/ C02 Generator & ScrOG
- Thread starter BooMeR242
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BooMeR242
Well-Known Member
k so i swung by the hydro store talked with my buddy and a few of u on here and decided to pick up sum SM-90 and serenade organic disease control spray. that specific spray targets; bacterial spots, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, leaf blight, and scab. so havin this on my arsenal will help b more prepared. i will spray as instructed with the SM90; target the main stems via foliar feed and pro spray the rest just to be safe. ill do this for the next 3 days with lights off.
anyways wish me luck.
oh and to further avoid stem rot issues im gonna turn the "T-shaped" drip emitters down straight into the rockwool so its not sprayig the stem. cant put the ring in between the cube and slab since the top cube wont be watered and the roots will die off thus cutting off any nute supply from the bottom roots up to the plant. thanks for the help guys.
anyways wish me luck.
oh and to further avoid stem rot issues im gonna turn the "T-shaped" drip emitters down straight into the rockwool so its not sprayig the stem. cant put the ring in between the cube and slab since the top cube wont be watered and the roots will die off thus cutting off any nute supply from the bottom roots up to the plant. thanks for the help guys.
Someguy15
Well-Known Member
I have noticed that RW stacked on RW has a strong wicking action. Take a wet block, and place a dry one on top of it for ~30sec to 1 min. It balances the moisture between the two via osmosis. I've also observed a dry cotton towel will suck the water out of a cube if you set it on it. Try it with a extra cube if you got em... strange how they work compared to soil, hydroton or any other medium basically.
BooMeR242
Well-Known Member
see that makes sense to a point and i mite just test it out since i like to know everything about the shit i use but i would rather be as thourough as i can and water correctly. not sayin the wick method wont work but i dont have the time or patience to be checkin every cube every day a couple times lol. i decided to just turn the drip emitters down into the cube so should stop any stem rot issues for now. but the damage thatas been done is done so we will see. thanks again for the input and discussions
greenthumb111
Well-Known Member
Try Physan 20 for the fungus rot. It kills lots of mold and fungus. I would of tried to cut clones from that one that broke but if you have others why wait. Plants are looking good Boomer. I have the babies started and am popping more. I'll be watching
BooMeR242
Well-Known Member
thanks GT glad u could stop by i myself have been swamped and need to come by and scope out ur update when i can read up. but glad to hear things r on the move. im gonna give the SM-90 a shot first (rec by TLD actually) and see wat happens
BooMeR242
Well-Known Member
ok so a quick update since the lights fired on 30mins ago and i was double checkin shit. i sprayed all the stems and foiliar fed the ladies with 1 parts SM-90 and 5 parts water. supposed to b three applications in three days so ill continue and hope it gets rid of this bullshit. kinda frustrated but i knew i overlooked certain issues. ive watched grows and tried to be prepared for the more common issues IMO; mites, powdery mildew, nute burn, etc. but live and learn i knew shit would come up eventually. but im tryin to stay optimistic and enjoy the grow but its hard. i inspected all the ladies and prob close to 40% have visible stem rot starting and black chopped up lookin shit. wat i did was push down the rockwool around the stem to see better. hopefully this will air out and the spray will kill off thf fungus soon and plants wont b shocked from it. i also thru in 3ml/gallon of the SM-90 in my rez and fed with it as instructed. supposed to be for root uptake and fight the problem internally? i have other rooting additives that supposedly do similiar "eating dead shit" as the SM-90 but i all over it. i dont plan on losing any more bitches.
now on to the positive news i guess lol. last night i was messin with the c02 generator tryin to purge the air out the hose flippin the switch off and on troubleshooting it since everything was hookedup right and all but still wouldnt work. i gave up and tried it today when the lights came on. still no go so i consulted the manuel and found my issue. i pulled in a power cord thats supposed to b hooked up to a temperature monitoring system (that im not using) and it shuts off the co2 burner when the room gets too hot. so i unplugged the disabling feature and fired right up first try. i was stoked. i see now why they want u to install it 18" away from any and everything lol it actually gets hot. my lamps dont even get hot. anyways i still havent had to use the 2ton split AC unit so im waiting to test that out but i know it can drop the temps during dark all the way down to 60 so far which btw was fukn cold with fans blowing haha.
anyways thanks for all the tips and plz anymore discussions or suggestions regarding the stem rot issue fire away... im not sure when to expect to see results or if i should be expecting any casualities... so let me know wat and when i should be expecting if anyones used this shit.
now on to the positive news i guess lol. last night i was messin with the c02 generator tryin to purge the air out the hose flippin the switch off and on troubleshooting it since everything was hookedup right and all but still wouldnt work. i gave up and tried it today when the lights came on. still no go so i consulted the manuel and found my issue. i pulled in a power cord thats supposed to b hooked up to a temperature monitoring system (that im not using) and it shuts off the co2 burner when the room gets too hot. so i unplugged the disabling feature and fired right up first try. i was stoked. i see now why they want u to install it 18" away from any and everything lol it actually gets hot. my lamps dont even get hot. anyways i still havent had to use the 2ton split AC unit so im waiting to test that out but i know it can drop the temps during dark all the way down to 60 so far which btw was fukn cold with fans blowing haha.
anyways thanks for all the tips and plz anymore discussions or suggestions regarding the stem rot issue fire away... im not sure when to expect to see results or if i should be expecting any casualities... so let me know wat and when i should be expecting if anyones used this shit.
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
the wicking idea I saw posted somewhere might work out well, as long as your wicking from bottom to top, and not top to bottom as you have been doing.
quickrip
Active Member
so I really think once again someguy is giving the best advice. Get thet emitter the hell away from those stems. The rockwool will for sure wick the nutes and water up to your roots. On my flood table I barely touch the bottom of my cubes[about 1/4 inch up a 6 inch cube] and they are always full of water after. They also do this very fast. Rockwool takes some getting used to for sure but its worth it. Its an awsome medium when you start to get the hang of it. Im no pro but just an ammature opinion. Ive had real good luck with the sm-90 years ago in my closet setup for pm. I hope it works out well for you with this prob. If I could recommend something boomer. The stems that look affected should be supported quickly. They will weaken at the stem wall and snap. In my case the inside of the stem was still good and could function well when supported and eventually form a knot like supercropping. Heres a couple pics of my stems about 8 weeks after my stem rot probs. If theres anything I would have you take out of this post it would be to get the water away from the stem. Even try to get the top of the rockwool almost crunchy to alow the stem to dry out and the sm-90 can do its job.
the second pic is of my worst affected plant besides the one that i lost. Heres a pic of the top of the plant healthy and happy.
Get after it buddy!! Kill that shit
the second pic is of my worst affected plant besides the one that i lost. Heres a pic of the top of the plant healthy and happy.
Get after it buddy!! Kill that shit
BooMeR242
Well-Known Member
i had flipped the emittiers facing downwards to the rockwool which after testing last nights feed it seemed fine. the wicking i understand but the original 1" cube that the stem is in doesnt seem to get wet this way. at least not as much but im not watering much at all (once when lights come on for about 20secs) so we will see wat happens.
i appreciate the pix and the headsup. ill try and stake them up best i can today and just continue to monitor things
#1Raiderfan420
Well-Known Member
Speaking of Jack, this you tube video is how Jack did it up to the end. He will be missed!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHJezFADzDY&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHJezFADzDY&feature=related
greenthumb111
Well-Known Member
Actually that is a good product too which I will also try this year. Ive readup on a bunch of fungicides for the budrot we were plagued with last year. Physan 20, SM-90 and potassium bicarbonate are all good for that. I have used Physan 20 for about 14 years and know it works. Potassium bicarbonate is used for wine making and is cheap. Here is some data on SM-90:Use Nutrilife SM-90 to prevent or treat bacteria, fungus and insect problems. SM-90 is prepared from natural plant oils - the organic composition of SM-90 is biodegradable and non-toxic to humans, animals and plants!
SM-90 is a good product to use from day one with your plants to keep them healthy and pest / disease free. Use as a foliar spray or root feed in both soil and hydroponics gardens.
Root Disease: SM-90 inhibits common anaerobic fungal and bacterial pathogens. Use for any root disease from ascomycetes pathogens including fusarium, pythium, rhizoctonia, phytopthera and sclerotinia. When added in small quantities to plant nutrient solutions, root disease infestations are inhibited and new root growth emerges. Treated plants develop greater root area and root runs and exhibit a generally healthier root development. Application rate: Apply 2 - 3 ml for each gallon of nutrient solution on a weekly basis.
Plant Infestations: Treat leaf or stem infestations by appying as a foliar spray. SM-90 eliminates many molds, mildew and leaf spot and is also effective for botrytis, blight, fusarium, leaf mold, rhizoctonia stem rot, sclerotinia stem rot and others. SM-90 also discourages and eliminates many common pests including aphids, thrips, spider mite, and whitefly. It is believed to act as a systemic to inhibit insect colonization and to deter reinfestation. Application rate: Mix 1 part SM-90 with 5 parts water. Spray directly on plant leaves and stems - be sure to spray entire plant as a prevention measure. Repeat every 3 days for up to 3 applications. Spray plants with water to prevent excess build during repeated applications.
An added benefit of SM-90 is an increase in metabolism and growth rate when used on a regular basis. A great choice for growers looking for a safe product to use on their consumable crops. Be sure to spray diluted solution within 8 hours of mixing. Keep away from sunlight.
NOTE: SM-90 will inhibit beneficial bacterial colonization. If you are trying to promote bacteria growth in your garden, this may not be a desirable additive.
All are organic too but be careful with your res' because it will kill your beneficial bacteria.
SM-90 is a good product to use from day one with your plants to keep them healthy and pest / disease free. Use as a foliar spray or root feed in both soil and hydroponics gardens.
Root Disease: SM-90 inhibits common anaerobic fungal and bacterial pathogens. Use for any root disease from ascomycetes pathogens including fusarium, pythium, rhizoctonia, phytopthera and sclerotinia. When added in small quantities to plant nutrient solutions, root disease infestations are inhibited and new root growth emerges. Treated plants develop greater root area and root runs and exhibit a generally healthier root development. Application rate: Apply 2 - 3 ml for each gallon of nutrient solution on a weekly basis.
Plant Infestations: Treat leaf or stem infestations by appying as a foliar spray. SM-90 eliminates many molds, mildew and leaf spot and is also effective for botrytis, blight, fusarium, leaf mold, rhizoctonia stem rot, sclerotinia stem rot and others. SM-90 also discourages and eliminates many common pests including aphids, thrips, spider mite, and whitefly. It is believed to act as a systemic to inhibit insect colonization and to deter reinfestation. Application rate: Mix 1 part SM-90 with 5 parts water. Spray directly on plant leaves and stems - be sure to spray entire plant as a prevention measure. Repeat every 3 days for up to 3 applications. Spray plants with water to prevent excess build during repeated applications.
An added benefit of SM-90 is an increase in metabolism and growth rate when used on a regular basis. A great choice for growers looking for a safe product to use on their consumable crops. Be sure to spray diluted solution within 8 hours of mixing. Keep away from sunlight.
NOTE: SM-90 will inhibit beneficial bacterial colonization. If you are trying to promote bacteria growth in your garden, this may not be a desirable additive.
All are organic too but be careful with your res' because it will kill your beneficial bacteria.
northeastern lights
Well-Known Member
Looking good Boomer. As always I'm lurking in the shadows watching. Wish I had some advice for you but I'm just making the switch to aero so hydro is not my strong point. Best of luck though.
Dude, if you want my opinion I would say these guys are right. When I used to drip into rockwool I had a couple stems rot on me. I had them in hydroton so I moved the drippers to the hydroton and let the rockwool dry out. It saved the rest. In your case I dont understand why you went with all the spaghetti tubing when you could just fill and drain the tub. The other thing I think you should consider is covering the roots. Contained in that cube, being air pruned will stunt the plants. You really should have some hydroton or some medium around the cubes covering the roots.
OK, well thats my 2 cents.
Good Luck man.
OK, well thats my 2 cents.
Good Luck man.
quickrip
Active Member
Cruzer I have the same setup as boomer on a smaller scale. Im curious If you had two different mediums like rockwool and hydroton how would you time waterings with a setup like that. I know that hydroton can be watered much more frequently than rockwool. Would you recommend staying less frequent with the waterings to still keep the rockwool somewhat dryer, and still not allowing the light to hit the roots. Wouldnt this area still dry out killing the roots before the rockwool needs watering. What you are saying makes a lot of sense to me letting the roots go where they want through the hydroton and not stunting growth. Still much to learn for me here, sorry if this is kinda hijacking your journal Boomer.
BooMeR242
Well-Known Member
the roots only grew thru the original 6" RW cube during veg since i vegged longer then i had expected in the beginning. but ure right prob stunted then by air pruning. i transplanted them on top a 4" individual RW slab so the roots can expand but they should grow thru the bottom and bak out into the open since its in a bag with only a drainage slit in the bottom. but like u said uve grown this style before so ill live and learn.
i know lots of people hate rockwool and sum love it. but the reason i went with drip emittiers over the flood and drain style, not waste as much water and nutes (since i wont recirculate the runoff) and i know rockwool wicks well but i just trust a drip system to water more evenly.
but those were my original reasons to doin this setup. so now that im just startin to flower and the real problems seem to begin, i might reconsider my next setup or just battle thru and dial in all my shit. either way ill make it work.
ive already been lookin at expanding my setup to double the flower room and run more lights. prob 1000s but we will see. i dont want to get ahead of myself especially until i get the hydro setup down.
im checkin into a bucket feed setup called Under Current that i was rec by jackmayoffer. this setup would basically require an enitre new room design and setup and i dont want to of wasted all this work and money invested into this flower room. so we will see how things ride out.
i do appreciate/need the suggestions tho to dial everything in so plz keep all opinions and questions coming.
no worries quickrip ure on the same topic so its coo
BooMeR242
Well-Known Member
but now that i think about fillin the tray with hydroton i like that idea better. i could just veg in the 6" RW cube then blow out the roots in the hydroton on the table. itll allow good air uptake for the roots but no light pruning and they can grow as much as they want no rootbounding. this will also save me the extra 4" of heighth cuz i wont need to use the individual RW slabs underneath the cube. so ill have to research this concept more.