So the man doesnt have to repeat again. No hygrozyme, it feeds the slime. the tea needs between 70-75 degrees for the bennies to do their work. thats the great thing about it, no water chiller needed. info gold from page 1-3.Battling root rot too: So, should I use this the tea in my res with some Hygrozyme? I've already got tea in my res, but the root rot (I think) is still coming back. I know, I know- its redundant, but I don't know what else to do at this point. Yes, my res is aqua chilled to 65F and I have plenty of O2 in the res. So I guess I'm wondering, is it possible the for the Hygrozyme to help me if I were to add it with the tea to my res?
PS- I haven't had any cytaobacteria for a while, so that's a win. I might just start giving you rep every day I can Heis for that.
My quest for white healthy roots is still on, but I think I'm getting closer. Battled root aphids, brown slime algae, mites, and root rot now....so hopefully this is the end of it. :ear Bob- please give me healthy plants!!:: /endprayer
It's extremely unlikely you have root rot with your res conditions. Does it smell like rot? Are your roots still growing? You may just be seeing the "after-slime" some of us get when treating infection with bennies. If you do suspect rot, the best thing is to start over and meticulously sterilize before re-inoculation. Make sure the tea is ready to go with a new res; don't clean the res and then start brewing the tea. That would give any nasty stuff time to get a head start.Battling root rot too: So, should I use this the tea in my res with some Hygrozyme? I've already got tea in my res, but the root rot (I think) is still coming back. I know, I know- its redundant, but I don't know what else to do at this point. Yes, my res is aqua chilled to 65F and I have plenty of O2 in the res. So I guess I'm wondering, is it possible the for the Hygrozyme to help me if I were to add it with the tea to my res?
PS- I haven't had any cytaobacteria for a while, so that's a win. I might just start giving you rep every day I can Heis for that.
My quest for white healthy roots is still on, but I think I'm getting closer. Battled root aphids, brown slime algae, mites, and root rot now....so hopefully this is the end of it. :ear Bob- please give me healthy plants!!:: /endprayer
It works great in an EZ cloner. The mycorrhizae will not take hold until roots actually form, but the bacteria will keep the water safe until then. You can also spray a diluted solution on the clones to deter mold.Hey I just started a thread about using bene-microbes in ez-clone machines over in hydro/aero and wanted to get the opinion of people here on it
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/403106-anyone-try-mycorhizae-their-ez.html
Thanks!
The tea was brewed at 70-75F, so the bennies should be alive and well.So the man doesnt have to repeat again. No hygrozyme, it feeds the slime. the tea needs between 70-75 degrees for the bennies to do their work. thats the great thing about it, no water chiller needed. info gold from page 1-3.
Hey Heis, inspired by this thread I'm adding the myco's to all my solutions now, moms, veg, bloom, cloner, everything. What I'm wondering is how long they survive in the nutrient solution? or in the case in my ez-clone, in plain water? I want to re-add them often enough to keep them present and at optimum levels, but no so much as to waste them. Do you have a sense of their lifespan in water/nutrient solution? Thanks!It works great in an EZ cloner. The mycorrhizae will not take hold until roots actually form, but the bacteria will keep the water safe until then. You can also spray a diluted solution on the clones to deter mold.
no tude intended man. thought id chime in. forgive me. as far as i understand, fighting whatever, you still need the res temp in the 70-75 to keep the bennies alive.The tea was brewed at 70-75F, so the bennies should be alive and well.
I believe I'm battling pythium (my first words in my last post were "Battling Root Rot too: ", so 70-75F water is out of the question.
I'm not sure Dangledo if your sentence referring to Heis repeating himself was meant with any sort of attitude, so I'll assume not. But honestly, I think you missed the fact that I'm battling root rot (pythium) and not slime, of which you were kind enough to remind me is fed by Hygrozyme. This is exactly why I asked Heisenberg: I wanted to hear his opinion of my situation fighting pythium because of his knowledge of the cyanobacteria.
Thanks for your help though, kudos.
I've got plenty of tea freshly brewed and ready to go, just a day or two old.It's extremely unlikely you have root rot with your res conditions. Does it smell like rot? Are your roots still growing? You may just be seeing the "after-slime" some of us get when treating infection with bennies. If you do suspect rot, the best thing is to start over and meticulously sterilize before re-inoculation. Make sure the tea is ready to go with a new res; don't clean the res and then start brewing the tea. That would give any nasty stuff time to get a head start.
I could raise the water temperature, I'm open to suggestions. I just already am adding thriving bennies in there and re-adding new ones every three days. So the colder temps, I'm ok with IF they rid me of the effects of pythium and the bennies work. My feelings are that if I continuously add thriving bennies to an environment that doesn't support bacteria in general (cooler temps), then I shouldn't have to worry about the bad bacteria.no tude intended man. thought id chime in. forgive me. as far as i understand, fighting whatever, you still need the res temp in the 70-75 to keep the bennies alive.
Temps of 65 will retard the tea just like it retards root rot, but it should still do the trick. If you do not fear slime then go ahead and add the hygrozyme. Be sure to let us know the results.The tea was brewed at 70-75F, so the bennies should be alive and well.
I believe I'm battling pythium (my first words in my last post were "Battling Root Rot too: ", so 70-75F water is out of the question.
I'm not sure Dangledo if your sentence referring to Heis repeating himself was meant with any sort of attitude, so I'll assume not. But honestly, I think you missed the fact that I'm battling root rot (pythium) and not slime, of which you were kind enough to remind me is fed by Hygrozyme. This is exactly why I asked Heisenberg: I wanted to hear his opinion of my situation fighting pythium because of his knowledge of the cyanobacteria.
Thanks for your help though, kudos.
When fighting infection you want to re-inoculate every 3 days to ensure diversity. Once the system is purged of disease, you can do it once a week. The mutualistic organisms will probably live for quite some time because they get food from the roots, but the bacteria in the water die without food after a few days.Hey Heis, inspired by this thread I'm adding the myco's to all my solutions now, moms, veg, bloom, cloner, everything. What I'm wondering is how long they survive in the nutrient solution? or in the case in my ez-clone, in plain water? I want to re-add them often enough to keep them present and at optimum levels, but no so much as to waste them. Do you have a sense of their lifespan in water/nutrient solution? Thanks!
Go ahead and add it. The only time you shouldn't use it is when treating slime. If your system is clean of slime you should be fine, especially with bennies. I've not heard specifically of enzyme products making pythium worse. Hygrozyme with bennies is redundant, so someone looking to save money could drop it. If you already have it and feel comfortable using it, go ahead. Redundancy is something we strive for in some systems after all. Each grower should tailor their garden for what works for them. Let us know how it works out.This also brings me back to my original most recent question. In a beneficial bacteria inoculated reservoir, not battling brown algae slime, but trying to fight the effects of pythium, does adding Hygrozyme present a possibility for problems?
I understand that Hygrozyme creates food for bacteria to thrive on, if I have an abundance of dead plant matter (like all of my dead roots) in my system, I am thinking that I would like to give my bennies a boost at breaking down the organic material of which they can then immediately eat before the bad stuff gets it.
I know HZ is redundant, but if I'm not creating food for brown algae slime, then what other harms are there to using it?
So you see, cooler temps do not effect some types of pythium as much as the do beneficials. It's possible that with the cooler res temps you are suppressing the bennies while the pythium can thrive. It's also possible, since enzymes don't care much about temps, that adding them will help, though I personally would just stop cooling the res.In a close examination of Pythium-infected plants submitted to plant disease clinics during recent years, we have found that of the over 120 known species of Pythium, three are consistently causing crop losses: Pythium aphanidermatum, P. irregulare and P. ultimum.
Pythium ultimum favors cool greenhouse temperatures: the minimum for growth is 41° F, maximum 95° F and optimum 77-86° F. When other organisms are inhibited by cool temperature, P. ultimum can prosper.
P. aphanidermatum has a higher minimum temperature (50° F) than P. ultimum and a very high optimum temperature at 95-104° F.
P. irregulare, is somewhat intermediate between the other two in terms of its temperature preferences, but it shares with P. ultimum an inability to grow at high temperatures. It can grow at 34° F but has a maximum of 95° F and an optimum of 86° F.
Hi Robert, I asked the same question a few pages back and this is what he said directly. Heisenberg, I hope you do not mind me copy/paste this from my question.Highzenberg,
Wonderful post. I started at the beginning and am too excited to read the middle section ...I just had to jump to the end here to ask if your tea works in an aero setup. I apologize if you've already answered, but if I get an answer tonight I can order in the morning.
Thanx, Bob