Should be ok, I try to stay 80* or below, but I am not looking for speed. Remember that inside the jar the myc is gonna be a couple degrees above ambient.the temps holding at 81 degrees, is that too warm? i put all the jars in there.
JP
Unless fully colonized a jar will not pin due to light. The factors for a pinset are in order-1) full consolidation, 2) drop in co2 level (why fae is important), and 3) evaporation (why misting is important for cakes, a mono will have its own perfect environment already), and far less important then 1, 2, and 3 is light. Many peeps still think light is a trigger by itself, but it is not. I have had brf jars pin invitro without being fully colonized but that is due to something barring the full colonization- a contam, bad moisture content, packed too loose or too tight. So, in those instances the jar stalls at a point and believes it is consolidated and will pin.temp is way more important that light. and gas exchange. small amounts of light will make little difference but alot of light can trigger pinning.
before i read the rest of your post i have had jars pin before fully colonized.... sooo, sitting right next to a light. even mark keith talks about direct light causeing pinns to early.Unless fully colonized a jar will not pin due to light. The factors for a pinset are in order-1) full consolidation, 2) drop in co2 level (why fae is important), and 3) evaporation (why misting is important for cakes, a mono will have its own perfect environment already), and far less important then 1, 2, and 3 is light. Many peeps still think light is a trigger by itself, but it is not. I have had brf jars pin invitro without being fully colonized but that is due to something barring the full colonization- a contam, bad moisture content, packed too loose or too tight. So, in those instances the jar stalls at a point and believes it is consolidated and will pin.
Growth 80* - 85* is much faster in jars and tubs, but over that can cause contams and stalling due to the internal temps of the myc being a bit higher then ambient. I use 80* as my high temp because I know that fluctuations always happen and at higher temps they may cause badness. If I could guarentee 84* on the nosey all the time I would use that temp because it is much faster, much. But I do not use an incubator because they do fluctuate alot, and plus I am in no hurry. If you get enough jars going haste is not an issue, growth flows.
Notice in the RR vids he puts his jars on open shelves because light isn't an issue, and he has outlined the pinning triggers in the way I did here in many of his posts. He doesn't get monotubs and pushes the shotgun FCs way too much, but on everything else he is the info standard. I did tell him the bit about the monos and shotguns, just so you know I disagreed with him in person (well, on a thread he was on about monos).
your lc showed that fast?i unplugged the heater and left them in the tub. its 76 ambient in there without the heater running. i forgot about them being a couple degrees warmer inside the jar.
Testing a cc of a LC of yellow oyster i made a few days ago on some boiled cardboard. since i have so much, i wont miss it if it fails. I only used the inner ribbing from the cardboard, threw away the paper backing on both sides. cleaned the glue off of the small pieces and innoculated the cardboard and put that into a ziplock bag. If it doesnt work, oh well i tried.
JP
then it wasn't due to light.before i read the rest of your post i have had jars pin before fully colonized.... sooo, sitting right next to a light. even mark keith talks about direct light causeing pinns to early.
light can cause it. but it has to be strong bright light. by the way mark keith is RR, and i was just on a post of his were he told someone the direct daily dose of light was there problem for early pinning... trying to find it for you.then it wasn't due to light.
When I say light I mean ambient light, not thinking someone would place jars in direct sunlight or close beside a light. I have never hidden my jars away from whatever light is in the room they are, it is not a significant pinning trigger. Consolidation, drop in co2 levels, evaporation, and then light. That is the reason not to peek into a tub or tray before full consolidation, not because of the light but in the drop of the co2 level. If a tray or tub is fully colonized it will knot and pin without a drop in co2 but it will not be an even pinset, likewise an unconsolidated tray or tub will knot and pin if co2 drops. Evaporation is not possible without a co2 drop so thats number 3 on the list of triggers. Light is a distant 4th, as you can grow mush in the dark if you have the other 3 factors.although in another post he states that he belives small amounts of natural light to help colonization. he does specify SMALL AMOUNTS and natural.
oh and my jars were right next to my lamp that lights my hole room... sooo also after opening the jars and inspecting it was still field capacity nor not contamed...
Was it stalled? If no then why did you open the jar?although in another post he states that he belives small amounts of natural light to help colonization. he does specify SMALL AMOUNTS and natural.
oh and my jars were right next to my lamp that lights my hole room... very bright lol, also after opening the jars and inspecting it was still field capacity nor contamed... i may have some pics of it... on another computer. the problem with marc is he contridicts himself alot.