Golden Teacher PF tek, Mono Tek grow

Thanks a bunch! for this grow, i bought some glad ware family size containers for 4 bucks while i was at krogers.

I'll be using a 4:1 ratio bulk to spawn

It's regretful that i didnt make a LC from the golden teacher syringe. but ill get another chance at it when and if these grow.

thanks for reading along and offering advice, its appreciated!

JP
 
I checked the temp today in the closet, its only 75 degrees in there. I am about to refill the tub in tub and see if i can get the temp in there up to 80.
Anyone know what temp i should make the water, so it comes out as 80 in the inner tub?

JP
 
for jars or for fresh cakes?? either way I belive 76 is optimum temp for both incubation and fruiting.

some people colonize at a higher temp in the 80's, but that can dry out substrate and some other contams do better in the 80's temp range than in the mid 70's.

they can colonize a little faster in those temps also but you risk one of those problems.

I've just been told alot not to use temps that high so I warn others but I dont really know alot else about it.
 
Hmm so should i just go back to them being on a shelf? Im not convinced that light has any effect on myc growth.

I thought closer to 80 was best.. there is so much old info out there.. thanks guys i'll keep it under 80 no matter what i decide.

JP
 
temp is way more important that light. also gas exchange is very important.

small amounts of light will make little to no difference but alot of light can trigger pinning.
 
i unplugged the heater and left them in the tub. its 76 ambient in there without the heater running. i forgot about them being a couple degrees warmer inside the jar.

Testing a cc of a LC of yellow oyster i made a few days ago on some boiled cardboard. since i have so much, i wont miss it if it fails. I only used the inner ribbing from the cardboard, threw away the paper backing on both sides. cleaned the glue off of the small pieces and innoculated the cardboard and put that into a ziplock bag. If it doesnt work, oh well i tried.



JP
 
DarthD3vl said:
temp is way more important that light. and gas exchange. small amounts of light will make little difference but alot of light can trigger pinning.
Click to expand...

Unless fully colonized a jar will not pin due to light. The factors for a pinset are in order-1) full consolidation, 2) drop in co2 level (why fae is important), and 3) evaporation (why misting is important for cakes, a mono will have its own perfect environment already), and far less important then 1, 2, and 3 is light. Many peeps still think light is a trigger by itself, but it is not. I have had brf jars pin invitro without being fully colonized but that is due to something barring the full colonization- a contam, bad moisture content, packed too loose or too tight. So, in those instances the jar stalls at a point and believes it is consolidated and will pin.

Growth 80* - 85* is much faster in jars and tubs, but over that can cause contams and stalling due to the internal temps of the myc being a bit higher then ambient. I use 80* as my high temp because I know that fluctuations always happen and at higher temps they may cause badness. If I could guarentee 84* on the nosey all the time I would use that temp because it is much faster, much. But I do not use an incubator because they do fluctuate alot, and plus I am in no hurry. If you get enough jars going haste is not an issue, growth flows.

Notice in the RR vids he puts his jars on open shelves because light isn't an issue, and he has outlined the pinning triggers in the way I did here in many of his posts. He doesn't get monotubs and pushes the shotgun FCs way too much, but on everything else he is the info standard. I did tell him the bit about the monos and shotguns, just so you know I disagreed with him in person (well, on a thread he was on about monos).
 
choempi said:
Unless fully colonized a jar will not pin due to light. The factors for a pinset are in order-1) full consolidation, 2) drop in co2 level (why fae is important), and 3) evaporation (why misting is important for cakes, a mono will have its own perfect environment already), and far less important then 1, 2, and 3 is light. Many peeps still think light is a trigger by itself, but it is not. I have had brf jars pin invitro without being fully colonized but that is due to something barring the full colonization- a contam, bad moisture content, packed too loose or too tight. So, in those instances the jar stalls at a point and believes it is consolidated and will pin.

Growth 80* - 85* is much faster in jars and tubs, but over that can cause contams and stalling due to the internal temps of the myc being a bit higher then ambient. I use 80* as my high temp because I know that fluctuations always happen and at higher temps they may cause badness. If I could guarentee 84* on the nosey all the time I would use that temp because it is much faster, much. But I do not use an incubator because they do fluctuate alot, and plus I am in no hurry. If you get enough jars going haste is not an issue, growth flows.

Notice in the RR vids he puts his jars on open shelves because light isn't an issue, and he has outlined the pinning triggers in the way I did here in many of his posts. He doesn't get monotubs and pushes the shotgun FCs way too much, but on everything else he is the info standard. I did tell him the bit about the monos and shotguns, just so you know I disagreed with him in person (well, on a thread he was on about monos).
Click to expand...

before i read the rest of your post i have had jars pin before fully colonized.... sooo, sitting right next to a light. even mark keith talks about direct light causeing pinns to early.
 
justparanoid said:
i unplugged the heater and left them in the tub. its 76 ambient in there without the heater running. i forgot about them being a couple degrees warmer inside the jar.

Testing a cc of a LC of yellow oyster i made a few days ago on some boiled cardboard. since i have so much, i wont miss it if it fails. I only used the inner ribbing from the cardboard, threw away the paper backing on both sides. cleaned the glue off of the small pieces and innoculated the cardboard and put that into a ziplock bag. If it doesnt work, oh well i tried.



JP
Click to expand...

your lc showed that fast?
 
Yup it was inoculated with a LC not a spore syringe. There are bits of myc floating in the jar. This was just a test, i know the jar has alot more time to sit before its truly ready. i was just bored hehe
i have 4 quarts of yellow oyster growing for me as a side project. ill spawn that to straw.

JP
 
choempi said:
then it wasn't due to light.
Click to expand...

light can cause it. but it has to be strong bright light. by the way mark keith is RR, and i was just on a post of his were he told someone the direct daily dose of light was there problem for early pinning... trying to find it for you.
 
although in another post he states that he belives small amounts of natural light to help colonization. he does specify SMALL AMOUNTS and natural.

oh and my jars were right next to my lamp that lights my hole room... very bright lol, also after opening the jars and inspecting it was still field capacity nor contamed... i may have some pics of it... on another computer. the problem with marc is he contridicts himself alot.
 
DarthD3vl said:
although in another post he states that he belives small amounts of natural light to help colonization. he does specify SMALL AMOUNTS and natural.

oh and my jars were right next to my lamp that lights my hole room... sooo also after opening the jars and inspecting it was still field capacity nor not contamed...
Click to expand...

When I say light I mean ambient light, not thinking someone would place jars in direct sunlight or close beside a light. I have never hidden my jars away from whatever light is in the room they are, it is not a significant pinning trigger. Consolidation, drop in co2 levels, evaporation, and then light. That is the reason not to peek into a tub or tray before full consolidation, not because of the light but in the drop of the co2 level. If a tray or tub is fully colonized it will knot and pin without a drop in co2 but it will not be an even pinset, likewise an unconsolidated tray or tub will knot and pin if co2 drops. Evaporation is not possible without a co2 drop so thats number 3 on the list of triggers. Light is a distant 4th, as you can grow mush in the dark if you have the other 3 factors.
 
DarthD3vl said:
although in another post he states that he belives small amounts of natural light to help colonization. he does specify SMALL AMOUNTS and natural.

oh and my jars were right next to my lamp that lights my hole room... very bright lol, also after opening the jars and inspecting it was still field capacity nor contamed... i may have some pics of it... on another computer. the problem with marc is he contridicts himself alot.
Click to expand...

Was it stalled? If no then why did you open the jar?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top