Vegan Organics Aka Veganics With Matt Rize

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
But if you're using castings as one of your base ingredients of your tea, why would that not provide the same benefit (short of actual aeration of the soil)?
basic ACTs, when made with compost or worm castings, are not a real nutrient source. ACTs are more for life, and are applied usually every other week. This, imo, does not compensate for a thriving community of soil decomposers, like you would find in an outdoor garden .

matt...wut r your thoughts on vermitea? good/no good
good, of course. I make my own worm castings.

Aerated Compost Tea (AACT or ACT)

A process involving adding oxygen to:
1) Water
2) Compost (in a large 'tea' bag)
3) Food source for the biology in the compost

By creating optimal conditions for aerobic microbes, ACT allows you to multiply the biology in the starting compost exponentially. Many plant pathogens are anaerobic and prefer low to no oxygen conditions. By making sure the tea and the compost itself are well oxygenated and highly aerobic, you can potentially eliminate 75 percent of the potential plant-disease-causing bacteria and plant-toxic products.

Compost Tea Recipe: ½ cup compost (worm castings), 1½ tbsp organic molasses, 1tsp yucca juice, ½ tsp fish hydrolysate, ½ tsp kelp meal. Per gallon.

Directions: Use chlorine-free water, the best local compost you can find, aerate vigorously 18 to 24 hours. Strain. Dilute 1:20 or more. Spray on your plants and water into the soil during low light conditions every two weeks until you see flowers.
Source: What is Compost Tea? By Tim Wilson www.microbeorganics.com

“Compost Tea is a water-based environment wherein beneficial microorganisms are extracted from compost or vermicompost (worm compost) and multiplied by the millions and billions. Some form of agitation breaks the microbes free from the compost and they multiply because food, like black strap molasses, fish hydrolysate, kelp meal, humic acid, etc. has been added to the water, which at least one type of microbe digests.

When one or more type of microbe begins to multiply in response to the food, other microbes respond to this growth and begin to consume these initial microbes and multiply in turn and so on and so on. For example the initial microbes are usually bacteria which are food for protozoa so the protozoa multiply in response to the bacteria. The end result is a functional feeding cycle or microbial nutrient cycle. I refer to this as a functional microbial consortia. This tea develops over a period of 12 to 72 hours or more and is then applied to the soil and plants.

In the soil there are a number of organisms which function in basically the same nutrient cycle and zone. Once again, simply stated, there are substances released from the roots of plants which feed bacteria (& archaea). Again, the bacteria/archaea become prey to the protozoa and the protozoa excrete substances which are available to the roots as nutrients (e.g. nitrogen) thus creating a feeding cycle.

Other compost/soil microorganisms of great importance are fungi. Fungal hyphae, are long branching strands which grow through the soil and serve to; bind soil aggregates together, help retain moisture, store certain nutrients, provide a source of food to certain other microbes, provide pathways for nutrient and moisture delivery, decompose organic material and displace disease causing fungi.

There are also other types of fungi which do not grow (to my knowledge) in compost or Compost Tea which form a direct symbiotic nutrient exchange relationship with roots. This sort of fungi is called mycorrhizal fungi and there are many different species.

The major microorganisms at work in Compost Tea are bacteria, protozoa (flagellates, ciliates and amoebae) and fungal hyphae if present in your compost. It is best to have a wide diversity of each of these microbes present. There are higher order organisms like nematodes found in compost and soil and occasionally these are extracted into Compost Tea but they do not grow nor multiply in the tea. Of course in the soil there are many other contributors to the nutrient cycle, like insects, earthworms and other animals. In its totality this is often referred to as the soil food web.”
 

klassifyme

Active Member
what do you think of earthworrms in indoor containers, i've had good results on test plant in supersoil w/earthworms indoors
 

klassifyme

Active Member
the test plant had good nutrient uptake and needed less additional nutrients as i am trying to mix a only water and tea fed supersoil.btw it was in a seven gallon pot
 

Da Almighty Jew

Well-Known Member
I think earthworms in containers is a great idea. I'm wondering if that would compare to the outside soil food-web. Or do we need to put other things in soil indoors such as arthropods and other insects along with eathworms to make it equal to an outdoor soil food web? Also what are these insects, arthropods that we have to put in, to make it equal?
 

RPsmoke420

Active Member
Worms definitely wouldn't hurt. They'd help aerate the soil and they would add a ton of beneficial bacteria. I know I am happy to see tons of worms in my outdoor raised beds. The more and more I think about it, the more it makes sense to simply bring my outdoor soil practice indoors. Maybe do something for more aeration, but I'd be set. And no bottled nutes.

Anyway, maybe Matt can chime in... but I was reading about compost teas recently, and the idea of a more bacteria based tea vs. fungi based tea. For short cycle Cannabis, the bacteria would be more beneficial vs. fungi tea. And so EWC compost tea would be a bacteria based tea, and therefore might be better suited to Cannabis, or at least allow you to realize the benefits. Pretty sure it was an online article I was reading, but I can't find it now to get more of the details. Just a thought.
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
Worms definitely wouldn't hurt. They'd help aerate the soil and they would add a ton of beneficial bacteria. I know I am happy to see tons of worms in my outdoor raised beds. The more and more I think about it, the more it makes sense to simply bring my outdoor soil practice indoors. Maybe do something for more aeration, but I'd be set. And no bottled nutes.

Anyway, maybe Matt can chime in... but I was reading about compost teas recently, and the idea of a more bacteria based tea vs. fungi based tea. For short cycle Cannabis, the bacteria would be more beneficial vs. fungi tea. And so EWC compost tea would be a bacteria based tea, and therefore might be better suited to Cannabis, or at least allow you to realize the benefits. Pretty sure it was an online article I was reading, but I can't find it now to get more of the details. Just a thought.
RP you ready for the cup? I got my ticket, but plan on crashing the party without paying for VIP.
 

RPsmoke420

Active Member
RP you ready for the cup? I got my ticket, but plan on crashing the party without paying for VIP.
Things are coming together for sure. More then ready. Will be some good times. And looks like I might have the hook up to a few little shin-digs going on... no worries!
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
Things are coming together for sure. More then ready. Will be some good times. And looks like I might have the hook up to a few little shin-digs going on... no worries!
did I tell you I gave danko a tip of the month... for free. I'm too nice :) RIZE UP RIU!
 

RPsmoke420

Active Member
Probably should... might make it last longer. Canna says "most" of their nutrient line is made for a 2 year shelf life, unless otherwise stated. Also, if stored in the fridge, you would want to make sure the nutrient/water mix comes to room (root zone) temperature before watering. Using fresh fridge temps might be a bit too much.

I simply don't have space in my fridge. I store all mine in a large cabinet. It's dark and cool. Gotta make sure to throw out old bottles and clean up the cabinet from time to time, no worries.
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
Probably should... might make it last longer. Canna says "most" of their nutrient line is made for a 2 year shelf life, unless otherwise stated. Also, if stored in the fridge, you would want to make sure the nutrient/water mix comes to room (root zone) temperature before watering. Using fresh fridge temps might be a bit too much.

I simply don't have space in my fridge. I store all mine in a large cabinet. It's dark and cool. Gotta make sure to throw out old bottles and clean up the cabinet from time to time, no worries.
yeah, the biocanna line, maybe a few of the others with high levels of fermented plant extracts, may benefit from the fridge, especially over the summer when household temps rise. do not freeze, I don't think that would work out well.
 

beeznutz

Active Member
Probably should... might make it last longer. Canna says "most" of their nutrient line is made for a 2 year shelf life, unless otherwise stated. Also, if stored in the fridge, you would want to make sure the nutrient/water mix comes to room (root zone) temperature before watering. Using fresh fridge temps might be a bit too much.

I simply don't have space in my fridge. I store all mine in a large cabinet. It's dark and cool. Gotta make sure to throw out old bottles and clean up the cabinet from time to time, no worries.
i always get confused about manufacturer's recommendation.... is that 2 yrs if it hasn't been opened? and if it is open bottle then how long and what temp? i dunno, i think the last bottles i had lasted me longer because i didn't have many plants but now i have more so it'll probably get used faster. it's also summer and my basement gets a little muggy, i'm thinking of getting a mini fridge and set it on low.....
im also switching from GO to Canna so i'm not familiar with the nutes....
 

beeznutz

Active Member
on anotha note, i'm getting close to chopping time and i fed the ladies for the last time, would it be beneficial to feed water with just hygrozyme? or just water+mollasses for example? i'm about a week maybe 2 from chopping....
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
I cut Hygrozyme 3 weeks before harvest and just give plain water in the last 7-10 days. Molasses is more for the microorganisms in your soil, if you are wanting a sweetner add sucanat as an organic option. I still just give plain pH balance water in the last 7-10 though because I have been hammering them in the last couple weeks lately.
 
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