It's A Fuct World

[djbthunder]

Hey Al great advice but I do have a couple of questions.
I use a homemade aeroponic tote system and I am trying your 2 week system. Can I cut my roots if they start to go into the water I dont want a DWC system. And if so would it stunt the growth of the plants. I would only cut enough roots so they wont go into the water below

 

[JCKHMR]

Hey Al,

Did my first hydro grow on a flood and drain table back in the early '80s. Had absolutely no idea what I was doing, and compared to what's available now... there was NO quality information available back then and I had great yields using Miracle Grow as my only nute source. The point being, you really have to try hard to screw up a grow and still so many out there find a way to do just that. Amazing.

There is no bigger rule than K.I.S.S.!

I just read a guys thread who claimed to be a "big fan" of yours, even dedicated his journal to you... then when I start reading he's built tables twice the size you had (I'm thinking, Man that's gonna be a lot of work) and puts just 8-10 plants on it and grows in Coco. What the Hell?

Water, nutes, lite and adequate ventalation (CO2 "recirculating," solves most heat and humidity issues and strengthens the stems).

Why do so many try to make this more complicated than it has to be? IMHO, anyone who's thinking about starting a grow should read your "...every 2 week" thread and if they don't follow it word for word they're an absolute... idiot. Just had to be said. I've tried a dozen different grow "methods" over the years and while what I'm doing now is a lot more complicated, I'm not getting any better results for all my added effort than the basic model you've outlined. You've stripped away the B.S. and provided a perfect road map for success.

Props,

Jckhmr

 

[The New Jim Jones]

Happy to help.

I just wrote a relatively long reply on another thread which has some bearing on what we're takling about here, so I'm going to repost it here in entirety.

BUdbuddysmile is asking our unmethodical, anti-scientific H2O2 leaf-sprayer what the deal was- and I reply to him:

you shat all over him and his flawed philosophies. ZING!

 

[Al B. Fuct]

I have been reading through countless "Manuals" and all of your threads (trying to sift through the nonsense almost made me want to quit) But I have finally gotten to the point that I am going to begin my first Grow.

Being someone who like to have control of everything, I have decided to start with Hydroponics, as well as it becoming Winter in my hemisphere, and it is the only way to grow at this time.

A couple questions I had was, would I be able to start smaller, and work my way up to your setup.

e.g. I was planning on purchasing a 2'x2' table, a 60 litre reservoir, and a 400w HPS for growing. Would this setup still benefit somewhat from the SoG growing style (14 rooted clones placed in 12/12 and trimmed) or would it not work as well.

I was also told by one of the hydro shops I was planning on buying from that it wouldn't be as efficient to rotate 4 trays, as you have to clean everything out. I didn't see as much of a problem with this, as I could dedicate the rotation to be on say, Sunday, and I could clean just after their morning flood and drain, and the plants would have enough nutrients in the material (rockwool mini-blocks) to cover the time it took to clean everything.

also, one thing I never noticed mentioned has been the cleaning. Should I pull out the plants to be harvested, and move my way backward through the trays, cleaning them, and then put the plants up to dry (or even build one of your driers?) or would you recommend something else entirely.

I am new at this, but would appreciate you bestowing myself and others with your wisdom, and apologies if I have asked questions that have already been answered.

My primary comment about advice from hydro shop clerks is that if their advice was worth anything, it's highly improbable that they would be writing up sales for minimum wage in a hydro shop. 'Cleaning' is a pretty weak excuse for not using multiple trays. If anything, the clerk should have used your interest in a multiple tray system to upsell you.

Cleaning flood & drain systems is as easy as it gets. If you're using H2O2 as I recommend, it's barely necessary. I clean trays when they start to get a bit of nutrient salt buildup, but I don't always clean trays between batches. I do on occasion spray a stiff H2O2 (~20%) solution with a drop of liquid dish soap added as a wetting agent into the tanks on renewing nute solutions if there's any algae in evidence.

The primary downside to not running a 4-tank/tray system is that you can't use flowering boosters like Canna PK1314 in week 5 without dosing all the plants.

Strongly suggest you build a bud dryer. Eliminates any possibility of mouldy buds as well as speeds up the drying, such that you have aromatic buds stinking up the place for a much shorter period of time.

Even the crystal wizards know what works

I shall delegate commentary on crystal waving goobers to Captain Picard:

Thanks, can you tell me how far from plants is your AAW in cooltube?

My AAWs with cooltubes are hung with yoyos so I can adjust the clearance at will, but they're usually about 250-300mm from the plant tops. Cooltubes are so effective at controlling IR emissions that leaves can be touching them without damage. However, if the lamps are that low, the plants furthest from them will be shadowed by the plants nearest. Clearance should be determined by most even light coverage of all plants.

Hey Al great advice but I do have a couple of questions.
I use a homemade aeroponic tote system and I am trying your 2 week system. Can I cut my roots if they start to go into the water I dont want a DWC system. And if so would it stunt the growth of the plants. I would only cut enough roots so they wont go into the water below

You could trim the roots a little without doing too much damage, but if you have a reliable, backed-up & redundant air supply in your aero system, there's no harm in letting it behave like a DWC. I use pots of absorbent media because it allows portability of plants within the op, something that you can't do with either aero or DWC and which has much greater resilience to power interruptions and equipment failures.

Hey Al,

Did my first hydro grow on a flood and drain table back in the early '80s. Had absolutely no idea what I was doing, and compared to what's available now... there was NO quality information available back then and I had great yields using Miracle Grow as my only nute source. The point being, you really have to try hard to screw up a grow and still so many out there find a way to do just that. Amazing.

People dis Miracle Grow quite a lot, but in reality, it's not a bad soluble plant food at all. It's designed for use in soil though, and doesn't have every little whipstitch of micronutes you will find in high quality hydroponic nutrients.

There is no bigger rule than K.I.S.S.!

Yep.

I just read a guys thread who claimed to be a "big fan" of yours, even dedicated his journal to you... then when I start reading he's built tables twice the size you had (I'm thinking, Man that's gonna be a lot of work) and puts just 8-10 plants on it and grows in Coco. What the Hell?

*sigh* Yep, there's a lot of unauthorised invocations of the Fuct "brand" (as it were) floating around the web in application to systems and methods that I have never used and wouldn't recommend. I think my (least) favourite was someone flogging an 'Al B. Fuct SCRoG grow.' I am certainly not the inventor of the SoG method, but I use a refinement of it for very good reasons, mainly high production per sq ft combined with simplicity. 8-10 plants in trays double the size of mine makes me think that person was topping the plants & vegging before flowering to make them bush out, which is a direct contradiction of the SoG method, defeats its purpose/advantages and totally blows the timeline.

Water, nutes, lite and adequate ventalation (CO2 "recirculating," solves most heat and humidity issues and strengthens the stems).

mmm hmm.

Why do so many try to make this more complicated than it has to be? IMHO, anyone who's thinking about starting a grow should read your "...every 2 week" thread and if they don't follow it word for word they're an absolute... idiot. Just had to be said. I've tried a dozen different grow "methods" over the years and while what I'm doing now is a lot more complicated, I'm not getting any better results for all my added effort than the basic model you've outlined. You've stripped away the B.S. and provided a perfect road map for success.

Thanks. I really don't know why some folks want to modify the fundamentals of the '2 week' system. It is a distillation of performance vs. utility. I built in a few compromises that may shave a few % off absolute max yield (notably use of pots of absorbent media in flood trays over any other watering system) but which make the system infinitely easier to work with, certainly over the longer term.

you shat all over him and his flawed philosophies. ZING!

Thanks, but I'm not really here to shit on ppl or prove what a badass I am. That particular joker got up my nose by repeating falsehoods after having been shown authoritative information about the toxicity of a substance, published by the manufacturer of the substance. It doesn't get any more authoritative and accurate than that. Facts are real things and they matter!

 

[JCKHMR]

Welcome ectweak,

A 2'X2' table with 7" (175mm) pots would hold 9 plants (24"x24"). It's the little details in Al's system that are really ingenious - one of those details is moving the plants from one table to the next instead of "simply" switching reservoirs. One advantage is cleanliness, but the underlying benefit is actually taking a little time to examine each plant during the move (after cleaning the empty tray). Also, plants will have slight variations in growth rates, so while moving them you’re able to reposition and rotate plants so taller ones go to the “outside” of the tray and you can bring the smaller/shorter plants closer to the lamp where they won’t be shadowed by the bigger girls. You get 3 opportunities to do this during the 2 month flower.

You're right about the progression. Harvest #4, clean tray, move plants tray #3 to #4, clean #3, move #2 -#3... newly rooted clones get loaded into tray #1.

Let me offer another variation I don’t recall Al mentioning in his post, if all the trays start at the same level… the newly rooted clones you’re loading into tray #1 will obviously be much shorter than the plants you’ve moved into tray #2; which will be slightly shorter than those you will have moved to tray #3 (#3 & #4 should be fairly close in height). You certainly don’t want an 18” difference in the height of the plants between the trays, so in order to establish a fairly consistent canopy height between the 4 trays, #1 should be sitting 6“- 12” higher, and #2 should be 4”-6” higher than trays #3 &#4. This will be dependent on the strain you’re growing. So think about leaving a couple extra inches of hose on the fill and drain tubes between those first 2 trays and their reservoirs and devise a way of elevating them so as to end up with a more even canopy.

You don’t want the canopy to be even at the start… remember the plants during those first 2 weeks are going to shoot up considerably so if you start the plants in #1 even with #2, they’ll be a lot taller by time you move them 'downhill' to tray #2. You want to try and split the difference so they start out a little shorter and in 2 weeks their a little taller.

A 400 HPS would bearly work for what would be roughly a 5'x5' (all 4 trays together) flower area - but if you're buying for your project spend the little extra for a digital dimmable 600 or 1000 watt lamp - You're never going smaller with your grow... but eventually wanting to go bigger is the obvious progression.

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/6592-get-harvest-every-2-weeks.html
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/15030-batch-clones-rockwool.html

Yes, this is a SOG operation at this size. The most important thing about a Sea of Green is the pruning of the plant. It is really hard to trim away healthy lower growth but you want the plant to pump nutes to just a couple HUGE colas on the top, not a bunch of popcorn on lower branches that shouldn't even be there. The above links are your manuals... the "big cutting" process Al lays out will put you about 8-10 days ahead of the game. Once a "small" clone takes root and starts to feed on the nutes, it will take at least a week to get to the point where his clones are starting.

Good luck.

 

[ringlead3r]

Al I'm still having problems with wilting i think its due to low humidity seeing its only about 38% I was wondering what yours is normally at. air temp is right around 20c and medium temp is right around 28c

 

[savage007]

Hey Al!

Been reading and following for a long time...just built a cabinet and have some girls in bubble buckets, needless to say I am struggling...

Here's my info:
Girls: 6 Tahoe OG (5 now pulled weakest one down to see it's roots this morning due to no growth and limp ass plant)
Mother Area: 1.5' x 3' x 4'
Lighting: (1) 156watt 4 bulb HO T5 with (2) SunWave 12k (1) SuperBlue 460 (1) Truelumen Flora
Room temp range: 74 Hi 62 Low (currently 70)
Humidity range: 45-55
Res temp range: 60-70 (currently 63) - Last res change was Saturday 11/10 pH was 5.5, 650ppm
Using GH Flora 3 part: Currently @ 630ppm's (week prior 430, week prior to that 400) - Note: I have Canna for flowering Substra Hard water and pk 13/14 just using the GH nutes cause they were available, but I would like to use the canna for vegging too!
Tap water stats: 170ppm and 8.2 pH
pH in buckets: currently 5.8-6.2 (although it was all over weeks prior, would set @ 5.4 and would rise rapidly to 6.5+ in 12-24 hours. I have the chart and recorded jumps/adjustments if needed)

*Using 29% H2O2 @ 3ml a gallon every change/top off
*When I top off I use pH'd tap water to 5.5 and H2O2 every day/other day if buckets shows signs of drinking (also if I need to bring pH down I do it after top off and I use home made pH down, mix: sulfuric acid 1 cup to 1 gal distilled water)
*Using home made bubble buckets (2) 2.5 gal (1) 3.5 gal and (1) GH HydroFarm with 3 girls in it - this one is always all over the place with pH

Just switched over to GH pH down powder, I had thought I was getting sulfur toxicity with the hard water I have and the home brew pH down.
Pics:


I have a chart I can upload that shows all my adjustments ect but here's the pics from last few weeks sad...If I can get these girls healthy I can move forward and take clones and try my luck flowering but haven't been able to as of yet.

Thank you for your time and any suggestions you may have.

PS - Im not married to these Tahoe OG's (OR GH NUTES) esp since I will be SOG'ing in some HP Aero chambers in the flowering partition and realize OG prob isn't the best strain. I just wanted to start with something and these were left over from another grow. I can dump em and start fresh but wanted to learn on these first.

My faith is dwindling - So I'm reaching out to the MAN! Al B Fuct!

 

[savage007]

Oh and I forgot to mention..

Roots have grown since they have been put in the buckets about 3+ weeks ago, no smell but slight browning color. They have just started to come out the sides of the net pots.

I guess I don't expect the old growth or leaves to change drastically or show immediate improvement...but 3+ weeks in buckets, maybe 3 inches of growth and the way they look has got this savage confused and almost as sad as them plants!

Again thank you for any time or recommendations you have, it is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

savage007

 

[Grandpapy]

Hey Al,
First off, Gday! And Thank you for providing all tips, techniques, and Ideas.

This question comes from me not being able to see pics of your grow room, The link to the "in Operation" photos is Fuct. lol.

Could you repost that photo?

I have a 10x10 room with only 2 4x4' trays and I'm feeling cramped! I'm really interested in your wiring and pluming and what you do to keep it neat, out of the way, do your reservoirs dump to drain or do you pump them out?

Again, Thanks for helping, if I could I'd shout for tea.

 

[The New Jim Jones]

Hey Al lemme bombard you with questions! ahahahah I'm just kidding, your quite the man for answering every person's question, even if you answered it somewhere in this thread. YOU DA MAYNE, I honestly don't think I'm going to go hydro, just because I have everything I need for a good soil grow, but I shall lurk in the crevices and niches of this thread, or wait, I might go hydro sometime in the future if my brother wants to grow in his new place, but thats a quite a variable. Stay lit.

 

[savage007]

Hey Al!

Been reading and following for a long time...just built a cabinet and have some girls in bubble buckets, needless to say I am struggling...

Here's my info:
Girls: 6 Tahoe OG (5 now pulled weakest one down to see it's roots this morning due to no growth and limp ass plant)
Mother Area: 1.5' x 3' x 4'
Lighting: (1) 156watt 4 bulb HO T5 with (2) SunWave 12k (1) SuperBlue 460 (1) Truelumen Flora
Room temp range: 74 Hi 62 Low (currently 70)
Humidity range: 45-55
Res temp range: 60-70 (currently 63) - Last res change was Saturday 11/10 pH was 5.5, 650ppm
Using GH Flora 3 part: Currently @ 630ppm's (week prior 430, week prior to that 400) - Note: I have Canna for flowering Substra Hard water and pk 13/14 just using the GH nutes cause they were available, but I would like to use the canna for vegging too!
Tap water stats: 170ppm and 8.2 pH
pH in buckets: currently 5.8-6.2 (although it was all over weeks prior, would set @ 5.4 and would rise rapidly to 6.5+ in 12-24 hours. I have the chart and recorded jumps/adjustments if needed)

*Using 29% H2O2 @ 3ml a gallon every change/top off
*When I top off I use pH'd tap water to 5.5 and H2O2 every day/other day if buckets shows signs of drinking (also if I need to bring pH down I do it after top off and I use home made pH down, mix: sulfuric acid 1 cup to 1 gal distilled water)
*Using home made bubble buckets (2) 2.5 gal (1) 3.5 gal and (1) GH HydroFarm with 3 girls in it - this one is always all over the place with pH

Just switched over to GH pH down powder, I had thought I was getting sulfur toxicity with the hard water I have and the home brew pH down.
Pics:


I have a chart I can upload that shows all my adjustments ect but here's the pics from last few weeks sad...If I can get these girls healthy I can move forward and take clones and try my luck flowering but haven't been able to as of yet.

Thank you for your time and any suggestions you may have.

PS - Im not married to these Tahoe OG's (OR GH NUTES) esp since I will be SOG'ing in some HP Aero chambers in the flowering partition and realize OG prob isn't the best strain. I just wanted to start with something and these were left over from another grow. I can dump em and start fresh but wanted to learn on these first.

My faith is dwindling - So I'm reaching out to the MAN! Al B Fuct!

Holy shitballz it just dawned on me...I think my T5 is way to far away from the girls, hence all the issues!!! I should have that light SLAMMED on the tops of them things...

Man I Fuct myself!!!...

PERFECT

 

[The New Jim Jones]

if you read then you can see im an idiot

 

[stormp]

if you read Al B fuct's post, hes out of the RIU community, hes too busy with the work that he loves

View attachment 2409857

Last thing I saw Al post above, two days ago.

Are you sure that you are not referring to a very old post jim?

 

[The New Jim Jones]

im a 1000% idiot

 

[doniawon]

he's been updating this thread.he is answering questions still???

 

[The New Jim Jones]

im an idiot

 

[doniawon]

Thats old. He checks in on us still

 

[ringlead3r]

Go troll somewhere else lol

 

[The New Jim Jones]

damn i suck, sorry for my stupidity

 

[Al B. Fuct]

in order to establish a fairly consistent canopy height between the 4 trays, #1 should be sitting 6“- 12” higher, and #2 should be 4”-6” higher than trays #3 &#4. This will be dependent on the strain you’re growing. So think about leaving a couple extra inches of hose on the fill and drain tubes between those first 2 trays and their reservoirs and devise a way of elevating them so as to end up with a more even canopy.

All generally good, but the plants in a properly operating system will be at their final height in wk4, so trays 2, 3 & 4 can all be at the same height from the floor. My tray 1 is blocked up 50mm taller than tray 2, but it really doesn't need to be. I've only blocked that tray up in the last year & a bit or so. The tray 1 plants catch up pretty quickly.

A 400 HPS would bearly work for what would be roughly a 5'x5' (all 4 trays together) flower area - but if you're buying for your project spend the little extra for a digital dimmable 600 or 1000 watt lamp - You're never going smaller with your grow... but eventually wanting to go bigger is the obvious progression.

A general rule for HPS lighting is 50W/sq ft. A 400HPS will cover an 8 sq ft rectangular area, 2'x4' or a pair of 2'x2' trays.

I would recommend against 'digital' aka electronic ballasts. 'Magnetic' ballasts have just 3 working components (ballast coil, capacitor & igniter) and every one of them is more durable than the weakest component (semiconductor junctions) in electronic ballasts. Magnetic ballasts' service life is measured in decades. The component which tends to fail is the capacitor, and they rarely fail catastrophically. Light output may dim as the capacitor wears out, but rarely do magnetic ballasts quit entirely. Any old schmoe can replace a capacitor in a magnetic ballast. Capacitors are cheap & available and you might even consider replacing them as a wear component every 3-5 years. Even if you don't want to tear into your magnetic ballast and replace a capacitor, good quality magnetic ballasts (those with bolted laminations in their ballast coil) are so inexpensive that you you can justify having an entire spare ballast unit on the shelf.

Electronic ballasts do not have a ballast coil (as do magnetics), which wastes about 5% of the input power as heat due to eddy currents, but the durability/reliability of magnetics is so superior to electronic types that the 5% greater power consumption of a magnetic a worthwhile trade-off.

Yes, this is a SOG operation at this size. The most important thing about a Sea of Green is the pruning of the plant. It is really hard to trim away healthy lower growth but you want the plant to pump nutes to just a couple HUGE colas on the top, not a bunch of popcorn on lower branches that shouldn't even be there. The above links are your manuals... the "big cutting" process Al lays out will put you about 8-10 days ahead of the game. Once a "small" clone takes root and starts to feed on the nutes, it will take at least a week to get to the point where his clones are starting.

Yep, all that.

Al I'm still having problems with wilting i think its due to low humidity seeing its only about 38% I was wondering what yours is normally at. air temp is right around 20c and medium temp is right around 28c

Humidity is not generally something you have to worry about. If your clones are wilting, it's almost certainly because of stem tip rotting due to overwet conditions in your cloning medium. If the stem tip has rotted, the cutting can't take up any water, causing wilt.

Hey Al!

Been reading and following for a long time...just built a cabinet and have some girls in bubble buckets, needless to say I am struggling...

pH in buckets: currently 5.8-6.2 (although it was all over weeks prior, would set @ 5.4 and would rise rapidly to 6.5+ in 12-24 hours. I have the chart and recorded jumps/adjustments if needed)

pH jumping up like that is a pretty reliable indicator of pathogen infection (pythium, fusarium etc) in your rootmass.

*Using 29% H2O2 @ 3ml a gallon every change/top off

And that's why. You're not using enough H2O2 nor are you using it frequently enough. If using 29%, you should be using 1.7ml/L every 3-4 days.

Bubble buckets aka DWC is not a method I'd recommend as a general rule and definitely not a good method for new growers. Maintenance is difficult & DWC is susceptible to big problems if there's a power failure or air pump failure.

*When I top off I use pH'd tap water to 5.5 and H2O2 every day/other day if buckets shows signs of drinking (also if I need to bring pH down I do it after top off and I use home made pH down, mix: sulfuric acid 1 cup to 1 gal distilled water)

Don't use sulfuric acid to adjust pH. Use proper pHDown, available from any hydro shop. It's one of the very cheapest chemicals a hydro shop carries- there's just no excuse for attempting to use battery acid as a substitute. You can get either the phosphoric acid based type for flowering plants or nitric acid based for vegging plants, but the phosphoric acid based flavour will work in either application.

Never adjust pH of your makeup water. 5.5 is far too low anyway. Mix plain tapwater with nutrient concentrate, check pH & adjust as required afterward. Good quality nNutrient concentrates will generally contain pH buffers, which when mixed to around 1000ppm will set your pH pretty close to 5.8.

*Using home made bubble buckets (2) 2.5 gal (1) 3.5 gal and (1) GH HydroFarm with 3 girls in it - this one is always all over the place with pH

As said, the pH jumping up is indicative of pathogen infection.

Just switched over to GH pH down powder, I had thought I was getting sulfur toxicity with the hard water I have and the home brew pH down.
Pics:

Yep, bigtime root problems, caused by pathogen infections.

I have a chart I can upload that shows all my adjustments ect but here's the pics from last few weeks sad...If I can get these girls healthy I can move forward and take clones and try my luck flowering but haven't been able to as of yet.

Your plants are in pretty bad nick. Make plans around getting some good cuttings going and starting over.

PS - Im not married to these Tahoe OG's (OR GH NUTES) esp since I will be SOG'ing in some HP Aero chambers in the flowering partition and realize OG prob isn't the best strain. I just wanted to start with something and these were left over from another grow. I can dump em and start fresh but wanted to learn on these first.

I'd not recommend aero for a SoG op. You can't move plants around easily within the op to even up growth among the plants. Strongly suggest you change to flood & drain systems with plants in pots of absorbent media of some sort. I'm seeing very good performance with Sure To Grow loose fill media.

Oh and I forgot to mention..

Roots have grown since they have been put in the buckets about 3+ weeks ago, no smell but slight browning color.

Tan/brown roots are dead roots.

Hey Al,
First off, Gday! And Thank you for providing all tips, techniques, and Ideas.

No worries.

This question comes from me not being able to see pics of your grow room, The link to the "in Operation" photos is Fuct. lol.

*sigh* RIU has a very bad habit of losing photos- and I'm losing my patience with RIU. My entire photo library disappeared some time back- hundreds of instructive photos, many painstakingly Photoshop assembled images, just gone.

Could you repost that photo?

What would you like a photo of?

I have a 10x10 room with only 2 4x4' trays and I'm feeling cramped! I'm really interested in your wiring and pluming and what you do to keep it neat, out of the way, do your reservoirs dump to drain or do you pump them out?

Electrics are best managed by building a power panel. No electrics should ever touch the floor. EVER.

Details are here. https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/13825-power-panel-keep-electrics-safe.html

Tanks have a valving system for dumping old nute solns:

Details are here: https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/9187-easy-drain-system-flood-hydro.html

Again, Thanks for helping, if I could I'd shout for tea.

Thanks, but I'm not actually a tea fan. Coffee, black, will do.

Hey Al lemme bombard you with questions! ahahahah I'm just kidding, your quite the man for answering every person's question, even if you answered it somewhere in this thread. YOU DA MAYNE, I honestly don't think I'm going to go hydro, just because I have everything I need for a good soil grow, but I shall lurk in the crevices and niches of this thread, or wait, I might go hydro sometime in the future if my brother wants to grow in his new place, but thats a quite a variable. Stay lit.

Soil is a major pain in the ass compared to hydroponics. Heavy, can harbour pathogens, hard to dispose of, never performs as well as hydroponics with sterile media for each crop. Get past your fear, fork out the cash to do a hydro system correctly & just get on with it.

Holy shitballz it just dawned on me...I think my T5 is way to far away from the girls, hence all the issues!!! I should have that light SLAMMED on the tops of them things...

Man I Fuct myself!!!...

PERFECT

Fluoros are OK for clones. Use HPS or MH for mums (I use a 400HPS for 10 mums), HPS only for flowering plants.

he's been updating this thread.he is answering questions still???

I THINK so!