Search results

The 'B' version drivers allow remote dimming and you can gang up the dimming leads so they dim at the same rate. The resistance selection depends on the number of ganged drivers as per the table @Airwalker16 posted.

@janner 5x CXM-22 fit almost perfectly on HLG-480H-C1750 but that's a pretty high voltage rig at around 270V. (Series) Better to break it up into two drivers and run parallel: 4 on HLG-240-54(A or B) 5 on HLG-320-54(A or B)

Yes you have, it's not that obvious. Try this: weigh an amount of calcinit before and after warming to 200F for 30 minutes.

Agreed, bulk pH adjusters work just fine.

I like my Healthy Rips Force. Smallish, nice battery life, can be turned way down for efficiency or cranked up if you want to choke.

Not sure why you feel like you need to call me names. I know how this stuff works. OP's original question was: "will there be any losses?" I got the data, crunched the numbers and told him exactly what the losses are. Yes, the driver will continue to output the correct current, but the input...

I get what you say about the CC driver compensating for the loss, but the loss does actually happen and it does matter what size wire if you wish to control the loss. @shimbob gave an example of when even a small loss would make a difference even with a CC driver. Why can't we both be right?

Try Healthy Rips. My favorite handheld dry herb vape so far.

Again, not sure what all the angst is about, but having seen a good many of your posts over the years is seems you're trying to troll me. It won't work.

Easy bud. Although AN products are roundly panned due to all the things you mentioned, their pH products are actually decent bottled solutions that come out cheaper due to their high concentration. Not better, just cheaper.

@Roger A. Shrubber : I know exactly what you mean. I would probably still be smoking if I wasn't "forced" into vaping by my asthma. Vaping didn't "do it" for me either with the handheld units, but what really sold it for me was a tabletop enail from newvape. My Flowerpot with Showerhead can...

Not sure why you gotta be like that, but I'm sure it's not helping.

Yeah, you're good. At 5m in 18ga the loss is only .21% or .42W.

Here is a worst cast scenario with a 24V CV driver. Say you had 24V strips and wired them all in parallel then decided you wanted a remote ballast at 10m. The same 200W output from a CV 24V driver would lose 14.49% of its voltage to the 18ga wires. Almost 30W!

Ok, for 10m distance and at maximum driver voltage (143V) your wires will drop voltage by: .10% for 12ga .16% for 14ga .26% for 16ga .41% for 16ga So worst case you lose less than 1W to the 18ga wires. This is why you want to use the CC driver for remote ballast applications.

Wow dude, just trying to help same as you. He's going to have losses and I can tell exactly how much if I get the details. I guess you're more interested in a grobro answer while I'd like to persue a more scientific approach. No clue what I'm talking about? Not so much.

The wire loss will be less due to the higher voltage used in CC, but there will still be some loss. The driver loss is a separate issue, but is about the same for a CC or CV/CC driver of the same output. Please give all the details about driver, what you are driving and how hard, then I can...

More data, need size of cable, volts and amps.

Holy crap! Looking good @Mad Hamish

Why not potassium silicate? Good old KSi.