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Usually I see 25-45 W/ft^2 promoted for current tech LED, so that's 400-720W per 4x4 area. So many variables here that influence that, efficiency, hang height, penetration requirements and on and on. Better to shoot for decent PAR measurements than to use that metric.

I like these: Fishing Net, Soccer, Basketball, Disc Golf Safety Netting. Choose Your Size (6' x 25') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GZF2A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2c2XBb1SPA6B3

I think not enough. I hate this metric, but that's only 17.2W/ft^2.

Is this still the QB96 thread? Just checking... I see these boards as a way to sacrifice a little efficiency to hang high, run HARD and gain penetration. Should be a no-brainer for tree style grows. If I didn't scrog I wouldn't hesitate to try these.

If you want more terrible efficiency go for it. Worse than HID at this point, why not shoot for rock bottom?

Wow, way to crap on your own thread. He's just trying to help like everyone else.

While what you say is true, there would be very little difference between 2 drivers at 94% efficiency driven at 80% each and one big 94% efficient driver at 99% load, but if there was a difference, the edge would go to the 99% loaded driver. Assuming 230VAC, as it looks like efficiency actually...

Yes, you are missing the efficiency numbers on the datasheet. For the 185 it shows 94%, for the 320 it's 94%. There you have it, end of story. No need to do any spreadsheet contortions. They are equally efficient drivers.

Sure would, just with the caution on cooling. You may want to check out the inFlux series from Samsung if you want to drive the 301B chip hard. These are a little more coin, but have aluminum backs like the HLG boards to help disperse the heat. SL-B8V7N90L1WW is the L09 version, a double row...

You probably just loosened one or more connections on the wagos. Re-check them. I personally don't like them for that reason.

You could use that 100w driver, but if you are going to run at 100% just be sure to keep the strips cool. The 240 would not work with just two strips. You would be below the CC voltage for it, according to the datasheet.

Yeah, 1120mm.

I think what he's getting at is if you have a "cheap" potentiometer it may not give the full 100k resistance at max making your driver never hit its full potential. This is really just a function of the tolerance rating on the pot you buy, not necessarily how much it cost. You could pad the...

You could, but at full power you are overdriving that design by more than 100%. The chips would probably be ok, but may have shorter life unless you can keep them cool somehow. Your Q22 strips are 16s X 5p. The Sammy 301B diodes can handle .18A max current according to the datasheet. With...

Congratulations :clap:

My guess is probably not. Datasheet says 2 per 16A breaker of type B, 3 on breaker type C (has to do with time delay). 12 units would need to have staggered on times to not trip breakers.

I don't mean to pick a fight, but I did do a little study on per diode cost of strips vs. boards and found that boards are actually a bit less. If you can get the boards at a discount, even better. I can't argue with your other points, you can get lower with the strips for sure.

I don't see why that wouldn't work. You should be able to drive 3 cobs per driver at up to 116W each. Not familiar with the vero29, so you should make sure they can handle that kind of drive current. Edit: just checked the datasheets. You will have just enough voltage adjustment to run them...

Just did some calculations to figure out the cost per diode between strips and boards. The Sammy 301B is cheapest per diode in an HLG board, but not by a lot. I can't say how shipping might affect you either way. I would not limit myself to those two choices.

I agree with the strip sentiments above and run them myself. I was attempting to answer the OP's question of how to build the HLG550 at home. In general, yes, the boards will need to be run higher due to higher diode density. Seems to be a wash on price if you match the efficiencies. IME the...