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Strips are great, but are more work to build and can be more expensive if you go for efficiency. I found that the easiest light to build compared to strips and COB's is with the HLG 288 boards. These V2 boards are very efficient and I have been running around 25W/sqft with great results...

Spoon-feed much? 4x Quantum288 V2 4000k: https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/quantum-boards/products/qb288-v2-quantum-board?variant=8673410646108 1x HLG-320H-C1400: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/HLG-320H-C1400A/1866-2499-ND/7704057 18ga 300V wire...

Those drivers come with two outputs each, so four outputs to two boards each. Run thick wire to your fixture from each output, then do the split off into 18ga near the boards. With 14ga wire at 54V and 11A you will drop .1%/ft and with 16ga it's .17%. Example 10' run: 14ga 1% of 54V=.54V...

I have heard this batted around before. According to the datasheet I should be able to run at max voltage (and then some, but now I'm outside the CC mode) and as long as I stay within recommended Tcase I should be able to play all day like that. Would you agree? I sure hope so because I have...

Well, in the case of the 'B' drivers you would not have enough voltage on a 48B to drive 50V devices. The 'A' drivers are more flexible in that regard. You'd have to get the 54B to drive 50V COB's/boards if you need remote dimming.

Absolutely! Just know you might not be able to get all the way down to where you want to be with that driver. You are very welcome. Best of luck on your build!

Say wha? Those are 2 CV/CC drivers he linked. Same (parallel) wiring.

You will be safe with the 48A, but why the 240? If you only need 30W each you could get by with the HLG120H-48A. With the 240 I don't think you'd have enough range on the current pot to get down to 30W each.

One thing I like about series wiring is that the higher voltage allows the use of smaller wires and longer runs for remote driver installs. Another advantage from what I've seen with my builds is less wiring to deal with overall. A final small advantage is less voltage drop leading to higher...

Well, there is something you could do to increase your series voltage: Add a board! 23.5x5 is 117.5V which would get you 117.5x2.1=246.75W. Those watts would then be shared by 5 boards instead of 4, but your overall system efficiency goes up nicely.

Heh, no biggie @CoB_nUt this stuff isn't exactly straightforward. If you had a series voltage right at the max of this driver (119V) only then can you get the full rating. 119x2.1=239.9

Sounds about right: 4 qb120 boards in series, should be around 23.5V per board, so 94V total times your constant current of 2.1A=197.4W. Taking into account driver and wire losses, 220W at the plug is within spec.

I would like to add that with the 480 rec he'd have to parallel the current and series for the 320.

Nah, ledgardener wires strips in parallel. No high voltage danger there.

$6/W, sign me up, lol.

http://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux

The results of your voltage drop testing will tell us the answer to that. You mentioned getting another driver. If you decide to do this and you can live without the external dimming, please get the 'A' version of that driver as it can be dialed up to 25.2V.

Ok, time to measure all the voltage drops. Let me know if you need help with that.

Yes, BUT, that's at nominal current. Since your driver is rated at 20A output and you have 14 strips, the current to each strip would be around 1.43A, that's 300mA over the nominal (1125mA), so they require a bump in voltage over nominal as well to reach full power. Try this test since you have...

I sure hope not, as your circuit breakers are designed to trip in that case.