Search results

When making changes you always go with extra dark not extra light. Remember that the need 12 hrs of dark in a 24 hr period, but more than 12 hrs of dark won't hurt.

Smell traveling over 100 yds? I doubt that, even with 20 plants. I wouldn't put any there not because of smell but because someone is going to find them.

There are a few advantages to autos, none of which outweigh the disadvantages IMO. 1. They harvest a little earlier, but not as much as advertised 2. you don't have to worry about a light-proof room 3. you can grow them in a veg room where there is 24 hr light 4. they stay small Downside IMO...

Are you talking about moving air through the hood or through the whole tent? That's still what I'm unclear on. Do I need two seperate extration systems, one for the hood and one for the tent?

I intend to have 4 plants in it up to 5 weeks of age. I could put a 24 in 4 bulb T% in instead, but that is only 100 watts and seems inadequate. Again I don't think I will have to cool 400 with the tent closed. I happen to have the ballast and the 250 mh. Phase one - do you mean those fans were...

The reflector is a 6 inch air cooled. I was planning to bring air into the reflector from one side and out the other with a fan, but no other venting of the tent. The grow tent will be inside a closet so light leaks from it should not be a problem. And, the tent would only need to be closed...

I'm of the school that it doesn't take much of a pH meter. They don't have to be that accurate. Also, two point calibration isn't necessary, IMO. Many meters calibrate to 7.0 only. I don't use the solution either. I calibrate to RO water that I know to be 7.0.

I've been trying to figure out how to have a second growspace that can be used for 24 hr veg while the main one is on 12/12. But they have to be in the same general area, and the only solution I see is a grow tent, and it would have to be small, like 2 ft sq, 5 ft tall. I could start vegging...

1. depends 2. search and read

1. Plants can grow raidly in the first few weeks of 12/12. 2. They might be stretching because of inadequate light. Pics would help. 3. Some strains throw a phenotype that is very different. And sometimes seeds are even mislabled.

Swings are natural too. Try checking the pH just once a day and always at the same time. Don't get caught in a cycle of over adjusting.

Lower buds don't get enough light to grow. Many growers just eliminate the lower branches early on. You "can" harvest the tops and keep growing the lower stuff, but in the long run it might not be worth it. Better to just harvest it all and get a new grow going.

My electric is under 9 cents per kwh

By all means go to ebay and search vintage microscopes. Look for Tasco, Bushnell etc. You can find them for $20 - 30 and they are the best, a forest of trichs!

How hard can it be?

Why bother with a T5 light for veg? Just pop an MH bulb in. By the way, you didn't mention it, but you definitely want an air cooled reflector hood.

I don't think the time it takes for roots to reach water is much of a factor in how well the plant will do later on, IF they are being fed correctly by some other source until they do reach water (I like bubbles for this). What seems to matter more is how well roots do after they are in the...

I always say the yield from your first grow should be measured in learning. Don't do more than one strain. Pick a good classic one and learn from it before experimenting. I suggest Northern Lights.

Advice is worth what you pay for it, including the advice you get here. I also start more plants than I intend to finish and cull them at some point. If yours were started from regular seeds, have you already culled the males and have 10 females?

The ones that mold are the ones that were dead and would never have germinated.