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i'm not on my pc right now, but if i remember later this week i'll post a link with hundreds of articles on chemicals and how plants use them. it's a real eye opener, and will help you think in a different way. different types of plants like different things, so it's a matter of finding what...

you know how soil dries and pulls from the sides of the pots? then you water and water runs out really fast? this isn't saturating your root mass, but merely running down the sides and creating a dry center. to thoroughly saturate a root ball, soak from the bottom up. i dunk mine in a big...

fertilizer is funny, but when you understand how it works...... :mrgreen:

you know, it's funny; i grew up on farm land, we had tractors and grew crops.... we never flushed the veggies o.0. have you ever eaten a tomatoe that tasted like fertilizer? :p if you give the plant what it will use, and not a million other things there is NO reason to flush EVER. how do i...

you'll need potash.... blood meal attracts pests, as does bonemeal. you might want to consider picking up some pesticide and neem, just in case. i detest organic grown pot; to me, it's always the "clean organic" buds that have the residual taste and acrid flavors, along with the dreaded black...

because kush isn't the best strain out there? :p

wrong ratio for pot, but it would grow some killer tomatoes! :) pot likes a 1, 2, 3 ratio in flower; low nitrogen, medium phosphorous, and high potassium.

no, not rootbound, but you might have dry pockets which are worse. do you soak when watering? or do you water from the top? bottom soaking works well, and allows you to feed/water less frequently...

yes, but not tremendously; i have plants that go yellow when they're finishing, no matter what you feed them; could be a similar situation. what are you feeding, and how much?

no, first sign would be a darkening of the undersides of the fan leaves, blue/purple/black/red etc. this is showing the p is having a little more of a time getting in and out. it does not stop or hinder flowering, so long as temperatures rise during the light cycle.

60f wouldn't do it; my flower room gets in the 50's, sometimes mid 40's during the dark cycle with little to know effect. pot really only starts to hurt if it freezes.

take a picture; the crispyness sounds like a toxicity, not a def, but if the rust is along with yellowing, and leaves are dying from the bottom up you likely have a cal/mag issue.

super phosphates are HORRIBLE for pot, and can even kill them. at best you will lower yields and have acrid residual tasting smoke. do NOT use super p's like green light's super bloom 10 54 10. 10-15-10 will work decently for flower, but has a bit too much nitrogen. if mg, you will have...

it's not a lack, but an excess. that's the start of a phosphorous toxicity, common with fox farm nutrients. pot likes a one two three shot, low nitrogen, medium phos, and hi potassium. slow down on that super bloom ;)

what nutes are you using? most have clear instructions for usage on the label.

no problem :)

for a shorter flowering plant (up to 12 weeks) transition is generally 14 days, then start with flower nutes.

no, just feed them right. gh3 is a three part formula; you need to mix different amounts of each. for example, in full flower, you need 5ml gro 10ml micro (add this to water first; it's your base chem) and 15ml bloom. for transition to flower, use 10ml gro, 10ml micro, 10ml bloom for full...

what gh flora series are you using? gh3? gh flora nova? gh3 should be used according to label. i'd have to check the nova again to see the instructions for it, but i'm thinking you just need to up your amount. i thought that nova was supposed to use 1/2 tsp per gallon (5ml per 2g)...

you're not feeding enough, the plant wants nitrogen.