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I am honestly not sure whether they are reflowed or not. The last board that I fixed that looked like that one was reflowed. It would certainly be an easier fix with paste under the led. If I were into it, I'd desolder the leads and see for myself.

The tester you used is for checking AC. Great for checking household receptacles but not for anything but the AC side of the drivers. You need a multimeter. Even the simplest multimeter can be used. Using the Ohms scale, a good diode will have somewhere around 1.7-2.1 ohms resistance. This...

No, not a direct replacement. It's possible but only with some major modifications. When you repair this light you will be building on the skills you'll need to sink your teeth into a diy project!

You really have narrowed it down by switching the drivers. That method is what I use and it has not failed me. You now know that you have all good drivers and one dead string. My bet is that one open diode is responsible for the dead string.

Actually you don't want to be the ground wire. That's why we need insulation here. The type of conductor doesn't matter. Copper or silver, stranded or solid are fine. The color of the insulation only makes it easier to identify circuits so it's irrelevant here. If there is heat sink paste...

The pencil type are usually pretty reasonable. I think I paid less than $20 for the one I have.

Your iron should be no more than 40w. With higher wattage it's too easy to cook small things. If it looks like a pencil it's probably ok. If it has a pistol grip, it's to hot.

Yes, that's right. To be clear, the only part of the jumper wire you want to strip the insulation from is the last 1/4". That way you won't get shocked because the board will be powered up for the test. Any type of small gauge insulated wire is fine. A small piece of speaker wire or lamp wire...

At least you can determine which one it is. Just cut a 1-2" length of insulated wire and strip the insulation from the ends back about 1/4" and bend it into a U shape. Then power the board and check each diode by touching your jumper wire to connect the + side to the - side on each led. When...

I would bet that there's only one diode out. Replacing it is fairly easy once you determine which one it is. You could probably get away with soldering in a jumper wire around the dead one but you will lose the light that one would produce. I wouldn't suggest wiring around more than one...

Those Alta leds have pretty impressive numbers. They may be in my future.

It looks like the led board is screwed down virtually around every led. That suggests they used a silicone thermal pad between the sink plate and the board. If that's the case, all you need do is de-solder the burnt led and replace it with a new one. It's likely that you have only one led out...

I don't think LED lighting causes plants to uptake more Calcium or Magnesium than any other lighting would but I do think the intensity of lighting does make a big difference in uptake of those particular nutes. The other and more important issue is where the roots live and whats available to them

I guess that's true. I've never heard of one. I have had plants with both a calcium and magnesium deficiency due to lack of those minerals in RO water. To be precise, I could have said "If you already have either a Calcium or Magnesium deficiency or both..."

If you already have a deficiency just follow the dosage on the bottle. You can use less if you have no problems. I run my nutes at about 500ppm so by adding the calmag first I can finish adding nutes up to whatever ppm I want. As for MKP, use it in flower with calmag to the strength you...

I run hydro and also use ro water. I also blast my plants with copious amounts of LED light. Without any minerals in the ro water everything needs to be supplied by me. Both Calcium and Magnesium are needed for sure throughout the entire life of the plant. Calmag supplements are the easiest...

Thanks SDS. I would give you multiple likes if I could. The 25% increase due to intracanopy lighting is pretty accurate although I have managed to eek out a bit better yield with the addition of side lighting.

Those drivers might be just fine but you need to know their output voltage and current. You'll need to use a decent multimeter. Look for one that can measure 2a or better. The Vero 18 has a wide current range as do pretty much all of the cobs. I run mine at about 600ma to maximize...

It looks like your plants have a bit of a Magnesium deficiency. I've seen that same look in my garden which is aero using ro water.. Those yellowing leaves are a pretty clear indicator. Maybe time for some calmag. I have noticed that as I increased the intensity of my lighting I also...

Oooh! That sure is a pretty copper cooler. This is going to be good!