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If you want to drive them all on one string you could use this driver. http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HLG-185H-C700B.shtml That would work fine if you mounted them all on a single large heatsink but it might be a little too messy with Arctic Alpines.

The claims are true! The Vero 18 3500k has done very well for me. :hump:

I've been using Vero 18s. My light has 15 of them all driven at 600ma. I love this thing...

Go with 6. That would be about 300w or 50w/sq. ft.

9 x .35 = 3.15w 3.15w x 24 = 75.6w Here's why 350ma is the best fit for the 9v CXA1304. At the test current of 400ma the B4 bin 5,000k emitter produces ~425 lumens. When they are driven harder they make more heat and use more power per watt. In other words, by driving them at 650ma you...

You are using the 9v version of the 1304's, aren't you? They come in 9,18 and 36v versions. I just run them at 350ma. There are tons of driver choices. You can get one that will run 24 in a single string if you like. They run cooler and more efficiently at the lower amperage.

Running softer will definitely be easier on the emitters. Just make sure you get 3 watt replacements. They can handle up to 700ma when cooled well. The "heatsink" used in these lights is really inadequate to run the emitters at full current but they do hold up much better at 350ma. The light...

Glad to help! Did you get it working? I see a DIY fixture in your future...

If you feel that you need more voltage this one may be more to your liking. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maxwellen-Constant-Current-LED-Driver-Power-Supply-for-30-40-x-1W-300mA-40W-IP67-/221233259718?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338287a4c6&vxp=mtr

I can give you a first hand confirmation that those drivers will work. I retrofitted a Chinese 3w light made by a different manufacturer last year that has strings of 42 diodes running off those very same drivers with roughly the same mix of colors. The light hasn't failed since.

Those would work but it would be sort of defeating the purpose of keeping the repair within the value of the light.

Your math is good. The driver you linked to has a bit different specs than the one I linked. The input is 175-245vac and the output current is 300ma on the one you suggested. On a constant current driver the current stays constant as in 350ma. So, look for a driver that has the correct...

A good rule of thumb is the diodes need ~3v each. So, 42 diodes will need ~126v. Actually it's a bit less than 3v each. More like 2.8v. A 120v, 350ma driver like this...

That type of board is pretty easy to repair. To de-solder an led, just apply a small amount of pressure to the top side (lens) of the diode while melting the solder on each lead. The leads on your new diodes will have to be flattened so they will rest evenly on the board. I usually trim the...

I have 96 of the CXA1304 emitters surrounding my plants. It's best to run the 1304's at 300-350ma. At that amperage the efficiency is above 100 l/w. I figure somewhere between 110-115 l//w. Still nowhere near the efficiency of the CXA3070 @650ma but those 1304s really make for great side...

I use this soldering iron. It has worked for me for years. https://www.radioshack.com/weller-wlc100-40-watt-soldering-station/55027897.html#start=14&sz=12

I love the simplicity. Simply beautiful.

267 lumens/watt @93-95 cri is very impressive indeed. If this is for real they could become the leader in horticultural led tech.

Absolutely beautiful!

I just blew up the best photo of the board in question. I think your're right FranJan. Reflowed leds don't have a big ball of solder on top of the leads. The solder flows between the lead and the board contact so when it's done the leds appear to have very little solder on top of the leads...