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For the CXA 3000K, divide the number of lux by 67.3.

It looks like thrips

Yes the little oslons are the ultimate in efficiency. Everybody here keeps telling that deep red gives heavy buds... but for me since going pure white the buds have only gotten heavier (the previous light had about 50W of deep red). The pack of ICE was a freebie. It's very potent, gives the...

With just 5 vero's per heatsink the passive cooling will be pretty good. The oslons are always very nice of course, but it's not needed to max out the Mean Well driver. What you don't use in voltage is given back to you in amperage, up to a point. For example if you use 130V, then the driver can...

^^^ This The extrusion profile you showed here is less than 10 euro per meter, looks like a very good deal. The Mean Well driver I got from here. As a small tip in advance: Turn the driver all the way down when trying everything out for the first time, in case some strings are not properly...

That looks very impressive SDS, I'm glad that you'll be doing the analysis from now on :-) For reference these are my numbers for the CXA 3000K: CXA 3000K Power in : 3.76 W (9.40V x 0.40A) Luminous flux : 457 lumen Efficacy : 122 lumen/W LER : 328 lumen/W Radiometric...

OK that's great to hear. Good luck and enjoy the build! The initial budget was 500 euro (this was including pots, seeds, nutes etc). Since then a lot has been upgraded, not only the light but also the ventilation. I've never added it all up but it's a lot. It could have been a lot cheaper if I...

I have never checked how Vf evolves over time. It's not so bad if there are some slight mismatches though, it just means that one string will run a little bit harder than the other. This happens inside COBs too; the individual dies are wired in parallel strings as well. As long as the current...

Speedy I'm glad you're alive to tell it. I did a lot of stupid/dangerous things myself and have a healthy dose of respect for the 230 VAC mains power. I wonder too when DC voltage really becomes dangerous. I touched 143V with dry fingers and felt absolutely nothing. So 143V is 'safe' for me...

7 vero10's at 350mA on this heatsink would be pas de problème. A bit of airflow is recommended.

The amount of blue will be okay.. This has been tried by a member called Picograph; gave a lot of stretch since there is so little blue.

It's true that the high CRI has more far red, on the other hand most of this >700nm light is (imo) wasted energy. The Vero 4000K vegs very well when the intensity is high enough. For lower intensity the 5000K is a better choice. For flowering the Vero 3500K and 4000K both are superb. Btw I'm...

Over the past weeks all plants except one were harvested. Here is the ICE Remember this little Cindy? The cup is 300ml, not 250ml like I said earlier. The little plant is extremely top heavy but has alway kept perfect balance. This experiment has got me thinking to try a higher density...

With IO adjust you can set the brightness. It will probably be maxed out right now. VO adjust you can leave as is.

Sure if you drive the COB that hard then the TIM becomes important. What I take away from all this is that for a normal running COB the TIM doesn't matter much just keep the gap small. This all reminds me so much of CPU overclocking, ppl would pay $$$ for a few degrees less. Meanwhile Intel...

If I do the calculation with for example a Vero 29: dT = P . dx / (k . A), with dT = temperature gradient, P = 50 W of heat dissipation, dx = 5e-5 m average gap width, k = thermal conductivity, A = 7e-4 m2 contact area, then dT = 3.6 / k, so the difference between k = 1 or k = 10 is just a...

This would be a good idea. It's called a shroud in the world of CPU and GPU coolers. As a quick experiment you could tape up the whole upper part of the heatsink.

If you plan to use a light dimmer with the fan that will likely not work. There are fan controllers available but they are expensive. What I did was to put a light bulb in series with the fan. The wattage of the bulb controls the fan speed: higher wattage has less resistance and gives more speed.

That makes 1.6 umol/J, pretty solid for a commercial offering but not good enough for us! It's interesting that it has active cooling and still IP54 rating

Nice the coil does a good job of smearing out the transient. I wonder how much resistance it has and how much it would affect efficiency. Not sure what C2 is for, can't you just make C1 bigger? Should decrease the ripple.