Search results

I used 20AWG solid core wire in my gen 2 strips and also had a hard time getting them to insert. It requires a pretty good amount of force or at least more than I was expecting. The wires also need to go almost to the back where the connector starts to taper down, which is further than I...

If you have two constant current power supplies and a DC power meter, you can only have it connected to one driver. There's no way to measure two different currents with just one shunt.

Ah yes there are a bunch of different ways it might work. I just measured the difference in potentials between a microcontroller running from a wall power supply and the DIM- wire and I got that DIM- was 0.460V above the ground on the microcontroller. That means if I were to connect the grounds...

I wouldn't think you'd want to generate a 10VDC PWM to control them because 10V with what reference? If you have two different power supplies, they generate a voltage compared to their own ground wire so if the ground wires are at different potentials you'd get different voltages. What you want...

Sure! The VPD is just a calculation based on the temperature and humidity, so it is easy to work out. I just have a node in my Node-RED that calculates it. I'm sure it can be converted to of the other automation platforms. Here is the code: // saturated vapour pressure (Pa) at Temp (C) function...

Oh you just track temperature and humidity? That's cute. VPD and absolute humidity where you at! I've also found that the all AMS2301 / DHT22 units I have hilariously misread the humidity, all being off by >10% compared to a LaCrosse weather station transmitter. I've even tried the BME280...

Yup, at 700mA I saw 19.41V per strip. With the HLG-240H-20B, that is in the voltage range for CC output. Because it can do 12A, that's 17.14 strips you can power with it, at 231W output total for 17, which I would call a perfect match. You could also do 18 at 666mA if you wanted an even number...

Light is in position! Ran it at full brightness 1.067A or 204W at the wall. About 42C on the top of the panel, 52C on the bottom of the panel. Highest temperature I could get with an IR thermometer was 120F (48.8C) on the bottom. The driver is actually hotter than the strips are, coming in...

I went with 1050mA because 55C seemed like a good place as far as temperature goes and I was targeting 185-200W. The Bridgelux EB gen 2 are rated 700mA (which requires no heatsinking) and max at 1400mA. A little different than the Samsungs. I could have done 7 strips at 1400mA for about the...

Oh see I can recall one thing off the top of my head (the exact width of the strips) but for some reason I remembered the LEDs being more toward the outside. I'm with you, I would have a heck of a time trying to lay down 2x side by side 20mm pieces of tape and not have them overlap. I actually...

You can see how heat spreads on the strips in the thread I posted on Bridgelux EB thermals but 39mm sounds like Samsung strips. The Samsungs go more to the edge so I'd go with two lines of 20mm, where one 20mm is fine for EB strips (24mm wide) because the EBs are centered. Don't worry about...

@Chip Green the cold startup voltage of this arrangement is 179.4VDC (19.93V each). So that's 1% voltage drop once they warm up to 177.6V.

One more image. This is a piece of masking tape spread across the aluminum flashing, top side. It provides an emissive surface so we can see how heat is spreading across the sheet. I only left the tape on for about 10 minutes but I think the temperature reached equilibrium. This is the outside 3...

That's after 30 minutes and after I measured the temperatures from the FLIR images. It is roughly consistent with my single strip measurements, which was 56.4C at 1050mA, 19.68V. This would be 19.73V per strip. As a side note it is really hard to do measurements with this light. Usually I can...

As a followup. I am building my fixture and have 9x 560mm strips running on a HLG-185H-C1050. It pulls 205W at the wall, which given the 94% efficiency at 100% load for the driver is 192.7W delivered to the strips. Vf for the 9x array was measured at 177.6VDC or 1085mA. I'm just going to assume...

I think the standard app only goes down to minutes of runtime, so it might have to be 1 minute every 4 hours. I use node-red to do my scheduling and it can do seconds, and I think many other of the home automation software projects can do seconds as well.

The A version maxes out at 100% power output with its built-in potentiometer. I don't know if the B version can be over-currented, I've never tried it.

I can take these two: No, the specified current of the strips is their nominal current. The current that all the specs are what they say they are. You can run them at less current to get less light output, the ~94% output you quote. They will be slightly more efficient at this power though, so...

Arrow has the 3500K and 5000K for the $7.611, it is only the 3000K, 4000K, and 5700K that they charge a premium for, because where else ya gonna get em? I picked up four for my build today before the 10% off promotion ends after spending all week trying to decide if I really wanted to spend the...

I thought you guys might get a kick out of this. The winter did a real number on my hydrangea and it looked like it wasn't going to last so I brought it inside and rigged up a little "veg light" for it. It is the CREE horticulture reference design LEDs with 9x 4000K XP-G3 and 3x 660nm XP-E Photo...