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My test run didn't turn out well because it was cfl and unknown seeds. It was mostly just for fun to make it work, which it did. I kept losing fish to the solid lifting overflow but fixed that with some craft mesh. If I were to retry it with my current lights it would turn out much better.

How does the flow through worm bin work? Red wigglers? Do you feed them to your fish too?

You may want to raise your fish count or increase their feeding schedule if you go with high quality led strips. Dimming the strips down might also help keep everything in equilibrium. Aquaponics sometimes struggles to keep up with the nutrients needed for flowering plants. I'm really interested...

Extraction is also needed for odor control in a stealth setup. Carbon filters are required to scrub the smell out off the air. If you're running sealed you still might want an internal/circulation scrubber

Have you looked into the aluminum blocks they use to cool down soda guns in restaurants? They route the soda through an aluminum block that sits in the bottom of the ice bin. I think they are usually about a square foot and would work well for EB strips

Are you still running the reds?

Does Citizen know the market you intend to sell to? Last I heard they don't want their leds being used for growing marijuana

I've been running a small cab perpetually for years and it works great most of the time. Sometimes I miss my timing when taking clones and there are small gaps in the flower room. Most of this could be solved with more room so I could make extra plants and discard the ones I don't need. My veg...

I've been growing in a small cab for years with a total distance from floor to lights of 29". If you flip them to flower give them about 3 times the current height for headroom. Train them out flat with a screen if you can or just keep puliing then down and tie them down with string. Focus on...

It will cover the 3' width well but a single 50w cob might struggle with covering a two foot depth completely. If you dont mind a little less light around the edges you should be ok

With 3 amp fuses it could go all the way to the 2.8 amp output of your driver to just one cob

Blumats work well for automating the watering. They also make a moisture sensor that could possibly be hacked for electronic monitoring

As others have said, the veros could probably handle more amperage if you do have a run away. If you wanted to limit potentially damaging equipment and or plants under equipment than a 2 amp fuse wouldn't be a bad idea imo. The downside would be leaving the plants with no light if you have a...

Focus on lights with more blue in the spectrum as they will help control stretching. If they stretch to much move them closer to the lights if possible. Switching to 12/12 before the plants hit 1/3 of their vertical space should keep them low enough

It only works with the fans horizontally. One fan mounted through the lid the other through the bottom. Find some mesh or fabric to support the active carbon and make a layer as thick as you desire inside the container.

You may want to reconsider running an intake fan if smell is an issue. You always want to run negative pressure (exhaust fan) in the growing area so air is being pulled in as opposed to positive pressure (intake fan) which will push air out through any crevice or gap. I run a small cab with...

If your temps can handle it, installing variacs on the fans could allow you to dial back how much power they use.

You might get more bang for your buck by reducing the wattage. Switching some of your space over to high power cob leds will increase the efficiency of your lighting allowing you to dial back the watts and cooling without losing weight.

Did you mean 3 amp on the dc side? 30 amp is a heavy fuse to blow when output of the driver is only around 1 amp