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You could start nutes at low levels. like 25% of recommended, see how the plants react, and increase is they tolerate it.

In most cases you need to spray a couple times over a couple weeks to break the mites life cycle, particularly if they were to the web stage. From egg to egg laying adult in optimum condition it can be 5-20 days. A lot of sprays burn the pistils, while not pretty while growing, they’re going to...

Without a microscopic view and a lot of knowledge about identifying molds/fungus there's no way to tell for sure. It's probably OK, it could easily be a mycorrihizal fungus, looks like little fruiting bodies (white balls) on the ends of the fungus. I'd mix it in and let that soil dry out quite...

More likely it's root bound. That's a very small container. There's a point at which the roots can only supply nutes/water to a certain amount of foliage, once it gets to that point for every new leaf produced, an old one must die.

Can't tell with those pics, need clear close-ups at the nodes and growth points.

I’m at 37.5 and my stretch starts about mid-late August to early Sept.

Yeah, don’t use that sh*t on plants, especially in flower. Carbaryl was recently banned in Ca for home use. Potential cancer causer. It had a half life of about 12 days, so I’d go at least 4-6?weeks. You might try some kind of soap and see if the residue will wash off. Don’t do that again...

Based on the bud pic, at least a week or two, the buds still have some swelling to do, and you want 98% the pistils shriveled and red/brown. A good indicator of near harvest is when the plant stops drinking water.

It's not Ca, it could be Mg, or even iron or sulphur (unlikely). Do a foliar spray of epsom salts and if it's Mg it will turn around quickly. Since it's affecting the new/upper growth it's a non-mobile nutrient.

They look close, but a picture of the whole bud, up close, would help. The trichs on the sugar leaves turn before the the ones on the caylxes.

It's incredibly subjective, and IMHO depends on your age and what you've been exposed to. My era was the 70's on the West Coast, so the epic strains then were Acapulco Gold, Panama Red, Columbian, Maui Wowie, and Thaistick. Then I spent serveral years in Humboldt County in the mid 70's to...

What @DeadHeadX said ^^^^^^!

Sounds like it should be fine without additional nutes, at least for a while. It certainly doesn't look like it's suffering any ill effects or deficiencies.

I'm not familiar with that soil, but since it has earthworms castings, guano, and meals, it should have enough nutes for a while. What does the Mother Earth recommend?

If you're going to grow organic, you'll need bigger containers, a 3 gallon is small for organic. I'd use at least 5 gal and 7.5 or 10 gal would be better, for increased yield. IF you use molasses 1-3 tablespoons per gallon is recommended, a teaspoon isn't going to do much.

Cotlyedons always die at one point or another. The plant looks healthy. What are you growing in? It may already have some mild nutes in it.

If you want to try full organic then just get some geoflora or Gaia green, etc dry nutes, and use them. I have used the FF trio for years and it works well, last grow I used GroFlora, and it worked well too. I grow in FF Ocean forest.

Looks fine, what kind of light is that?

That light is not going to work. It’s 8 watts. Thats why the plants are so tall, they’re reaching for light. You’d be much better off putting them in a sunny windowsill until you can get a real light. Even a 100 or 150 watt led would work.

Yes, it'll be fine.