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yer nice! a rare diy build!... what make of diodes ect have you used?, where are the strips from?. i have been thinking about building something recently just not sure which direction to go...

no disadvantage other than the wiring like you mentioned. using 6 drivers instead of 2 could have its advantages, depending on your strip layout you could power and dim the center of the light fixture independantly of the edges allowing you to get a more even ppfd across your canopy. if you...

hmmm... i think the xlg-150-H is fine, the correct graph for the xlg-150-H is - so as long as each board of the tsl2000 is above 36v it will output the full 150watt with good effeciency. looking at the mars boards/pcb's it looks like they have 24 parallel strings of 14 x white midpowers in...

yer, revolutionary design... lolz.

mixing strips, boards and even monos of different voltages can only really be done on a diy level by using series builds using constant current drivers. if we look at the meanwell HLG-320H-C700 its a constant currant driver that will output a max 700ma as long as the voltage is between...

strips and boards come in all different voltages, 48v isnt unusual. trying to spec a driver that you can use in this build and then maybe use in future builds is not worth the trouble, pick the strips you want to use and the quantity then spec the driver for the build. the xlg are constant...

i know people have had success running eb strip builds with no heatsinks but the bridgelux strips are cheap and people normally buy more so they can be ran softer hence not needing the heatsinks. at 40-60watt these strips are not running soft.

yer if you are wanting to put 60watt through these strips he may need to go with a hlg-600-54b but even with great heat sinking its just not a good idea. if he runs them where he should be running them a 48b driver will be fine.

first up at 60w a strip these diodes are already getting pushed pretty hard, if you are wanting to build a fairly efficient light then i wouldnt go over 30watt a strip, 20 watt a strip would be better. short answer is no. short answer is yes. any decent driver has this function so no problem...

yep 301H evo 437nm pump and 301B evo 450nm pump.

thats not uv damage.

thats when you are just using purely resistive diming with a bare pot with no additional circuitry. 100k for one driver control, 50k for two, 33k for three ect. most meanwells will do resistive or pwm or 0-10v (if they dim to off) or 1-10v (if they dont dim to off)..

on a 0-10v dimmer the pot can be any value as the circuit board converts the resistance value to a voltage. the pot just becomes the adjustment dial, you could use a 500k pot as long as the on board pcb scales 0 resistance to 0 volts and 500k resistance to 10v. i think rapid leds old 0-10v...

i dont see anything fishy about the spectrum, you can clearly see on the pcbs they are using something that looks very much like the mint evos and another white diode (looks around 4000/5000k) then the 660's for the "red". the sprectrum graph also seems to back this up.

these mars bars are 30watt of 385nm uva and 15 watt of 730nm far red for the pair, so not an extreme amount. when the main light is at 100% @ 800watt its approx 5% total. with large healthy plants in late veg or flower i would run the uva and far red for the full 12 hour lights on. for...

good luck with the meshteks, unless they have made serious revisions in the hardware and software they are not fit for purpose.

dont get me wrong im not saying there would be no effect at all from daily light intensity/spectrum manipulation its just imo the benefits you might gain would be tiny compared to the work/cost needed to pull this off accurately. like rocket touched on for a normal single spectrum light to...

i dont think it will hurt anything so worth a try. if it is 0-10v you might need something like this https://wiki.dfrobot.com/SKU_DFR0971_2_Channel_I2C_0_10V_DAC_Module, you can controll it with I2C via the esp32 through HA.

have you tried feeding the lumatek drivers a pwm signal?. i gave a mate a couple of my lumatek 600w led's and i have been promising ill get rid of the horible dimmers and get him more control but have never got round to it yet, im sure i read somewhere that they were 0-10v.

here is some testing of a prototype three channel nichia optisolis 5000k + 2000k + 660nm mono strip at various combos and intensities. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 CH1 5K 100% 0% 100% 100% 100% 100% 50% 100% 0% CH2 2K 0% 100% 100% 50% 25% 10% 100%...