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Gotcha. I can't really give you a good answer on the "walmart" nutrients. Next time, if you have the space, you can let the plant grow a little bigger before you put her into flowering (12h light on 12h lights off). It's your first grow, your plant is still alive, and there's surely more for...

Joedank, You're ahead of the game, I like that. Chitosan comes in many different forms. Some are better than others in terms of efficacy. Some forms also have more scientific literature to back them up. In our experience, we've done a lot of research over the years and we're happy with the...

If you have a properly pH buffered nutrients and chelated micro nutrients, you shouldn't need to add any lime. Our growers have done 100's of round of peat moss (promix) without the addition of lime. Here is Sour D in promise at week 6 of flowering.....she is fed every 2 days with Perfect...

A plant can take a higher EC as long as the proper ratios are in place. As most know, higher EC's aren't always better. NO3:NH4 N:K N:Ca P:S K:Ca K:Mg Ca:Mg Fe:Mn These do make a difference and every nutrient company has a slightly different take on it. My hope is more growers learn...

When you report PPM's its difficult to understand. PPM is derived from EC....so if you're going to report a PPM we're going to need a conversion factor to "derive" your EC value. Are you referring to a .50 conversion?

Your EC levels in soil and peat moss should be around the same. Soil will become inert after time. A 1.6-1.7 EC in soil is just fine. This is what I was referring to about "raising". DWC and RDWC systems should have a slightly lower EC than soil, peat moss and coco. If that's not how you feel...

When you say day 30....is this the total life of the plant or 30 days into flowering stage?

You should lower your EC in constant contact systems (DWC, RWDC, aeroponics etc). You should raise your EC in coco, peat moss and soil. You should also raise your EC in "intermittent feeding systems". Luckily our system does all that for you! :) Aerono, thats right where we recommend our EC...

Try to keep organic things out of your feeding schedule if you are going the hydroponic route (DWC, RWDC, aero etc). These are things like sea kelps and humics. Bad Microbes like to feed on organic matter. If you insist on adding organic additives, you must ensure your water temps stay below 75F...

Are you growing in soil?

If so, you surely want to start feeding. If you're in soil you can either wait a bit longer or start on the lower side.

Im guessing you are in peat moss (promix etc)?

Try us :)

Could be broad mites. New growth damage is a good indication. Broad mites are very tough to eliminate. If your plants are young, you can apply TetraSan or Forbid 4F. Both are not cheap and they are strong. They are systemic for a period of time, thats why it's important to use this as a last...

We sell the Perfect Grower line :) RH is better at 70% in veg and 55-60% in flower. Humidity is your friend. Just make sure you have good air movement and it doesnt get above 65%. Too low and your plants won't grow as fast.

5.6 should be just fine. Buffering capacities (pH stability) are important when formulating nutrients. We went through a lot of R&D to get it just right. What conversion rate are you using when you're stating your PPM levels?

Guessing by leaf characteristics is a tough game. I like to know what I'm feeding ;)

I didnt read anything about your pH levels. Where are currently at? Figuring out nutrient issues is a guessing game. Lets start at the pH and work from there.

Oxygen levels are important in preventing root rot but temperature is just as important. A water chiller is safer than "adding more oxygen"

Plants do respond well to kelp! .... among other things