AACT, Bloom Tea, Veg Tea, Fungal Tea, Myco Tea, recipes from the outdoor guys.

AllDayToker

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
I plan on using this recipe from the first page.

"Flowering nute tea mix:
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
(That makes the "dry mix". You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
5 tbs. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
@ 2 cups dry mix/5 gallons of water EVERY watering."

My girls are half way into flower. I know that guano can burn.

I want a second opinion if it would be a good idea to dilute it 50/50 with fresh water after I brew it so make sure they take it well and not burn them.
 
natureboygrower

natureboygrower

Well-Known Member
AllDayToker said:
I plan on using this recipe from the first page.

"Flowering nute tea mix:
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
(That makes the "dry mix". You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
5 tbs. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
@ 2 cups dry mix/5 gallons of water EVERY watering."

My girls are half way into flower. I know that guano can burn.

I want a second opinion if it would be a good idea to dilute it 50/50 with fresh water after I brew it so make sure they take it well and not burn them.
Click to expand...
not knowing how your plant is going to respond,diluting is probably a good idea.I would dilute and just see how your plant does.also,I don't know about every watering,I watered with my tea once a week. one other thing,is that 5 tablespoons molasses per 5 gallons of h20?if so,I'd dial that back.I use 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of h20.it's hard to know your ratios mixing all your powders up beforehand,not saying it's not a good idea,it's just hard to gauge.maybe keep track of your tablespoons of each and figure that ratio to your h20 per gallon?
there are way more experienced ppl on this thread,they know more than me,just my thoughts.best of luck!
 
Brandon Nebel

Brandon Nebel

Well-Known Member
I have been using a recipe from vital earth organics. Its worked really well for me so far. Ive tweaked it a little since the beginning to add a few components i felt it was missing. Here is the original formula i started with.

.5 cup Baseline Compost Concentrate (peat humus)
.5 cup California gold humus
1 cup EWC
.5 Malibu Bu's Blend compost (cow manure base with yarrow, camomile and a few other things.
1 Tbsp glacial rock powder (trace elements, calcium, iron, cobalt, sodium)
2 Tbsp Vital Kelp
4 Tbsp Insect Frass
4 Tbsp Vital Fish Hydroslate
2 Tbsp Vital Roots (mycorrhiza)

I added the following on my own to tweak it a bit

2 Tbsp Unsulpured molasses
.25 Cup Bokashi (wheat bran, molasses, mineral rock salt)
1 Tsp Sea Green (3% humic acid)
.5 Cup Alfalfa meal
.5 cup soybean meal
.5 cup cotton seed meal
And then i add or subtract a guano depending on if i want to make a guano tea or not. If im making guano tea for veg i use .5 cup 9-3-1 guano and for flower i add a high p guano or sea bird guano. This has worked really well. Its a lot of ingredients but they last through at least 2 years of grows. Happy tea making.
 
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DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I've been using a recipe from Tim the Microbe Man, but I've tweaked it to tone it down, and round it out, I noticed burn on many sat doms following his recipe..

so now I use:

2% total volume: diy worm compost / fungal compost

(high humic acid content, bacterial dom, fungal dom soil prepared with fungal foods, depending on time/goals)

and

2-5 ml of evaporated cane juice crystals per 1000 mL tea (organic raw, harvested same day, molasses intact, less sugar toward the end)

Of course, I do use bokashi, lacto, borage, chamomile, aloe, coconut, frass, kelp, etc etc sometimes too but usually only when I realize I didnt amend properly. With the exception of aloe, lacto, and coconut, those are staples for me.
 
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BRANDON77

Well-Known Member
basic tea recipe....looking for something simple, I just received all the ingredients from amazon...if anyone has anything extra to add to it im all ears!!!!


COMPOST TEA RECIPE (5 GALLONS)

2 CUPS EWC

2 TBL ALFALFA MEAL

2 TBL KELP MEAL

2 TBL MOLASSES

10 ML OF DIRT M.D. HUMIC/FULVIC ACID

BUBBLE FOR 24-36 HOURS
 
Johnei

Johnei

Well-Known Member
I added a heaping tablespoon of Peruvian Seabird Guano pellets into a 5gallon bucket of water and watered my outdoor regular garden near my house with it. Almost emedietly there were flies EVERYWHERE! Regular flies and those big green shit flies.. Just letting you know, is this good, is this bad.. all I know is, I didn't add anything else and a P.S.G. watering and boom flies swarming above the soil/plants right there like Attack of the Killer Shit Flies!

Over'n'ouot'
 
Johnei

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Johnei said:
Veg tea

tsp=teaspoon
TBSP=tablespoon
per 1gallon of non-chlorine, non-chloramine water

--2TBSP Soil (Soil you always reuse that has already been ammended, or healthy outside soil a few inches deep around where the plants live)
--2TBSP EWC (RedWorms and AfricanNightcrawler EWC mix)
--1TBSP Organic Alfalfa Meal
--1tsp Kelp Meal (Not ground powder, Meal.)
--1/2tsp Glacial Rock Dust or Azomite (or 1/4 tsp of each per 1gal. water) Never too much, compacted powdery substances are not good for microbe air space purposes. It will compact the mix too much. Little goes a huge long way.
--1/2tsp Organic Rolled Oats (not powder, rolled oats for more surface area for fungi to latch onto and feed/grow)
--small unmeasured splash of fulvic acid per entire 4-5gal tea brew
--small unmeasured splash of humic acid per entire 4-5gal tea brew
(Fulvic and Humic acids are not necessary here, but won't hurt anything and provide benefits, never too much.)

--1/4tsp Unsulfered Molasses (All the complex carbohydrates in this mix and long chain slow to breakdown sugars will feed fungi growth, what we want, bacteria is always present, if we use too much Molasses type sugars it will grow the bacteria to insane levels too quickly, and take up all the dissolved oxygen in the bucket faster than can be replenished, the bacteria will take over growing so fast and the tea will shift anaerobic. We want more complex carbohydrates, that take longer to digest, which will give a chance for the fungi to be dominant in the tea brew. so a slightly longer brew, with very very low Molasses, or dont use it all!)

..and if you have it, some High Nitrogen Mexican Bat Guano...
It's not absolutely necessary with the formula I've given that is already rich with many forms of NPK Ca Mg and all trace minerals, but all guano's are amazing stuff, it's their microbe content we want to draw out in the tea and multiply the army of helpers. Mexican guano also trigger a SAR response in plants; Systemic Aquired Resistence. The Mexican Bats eat insects, while Jamaican bats and Indonesian bats eat fruit, and are higher in phosphorus and compounds from fruiting plants. The insect's exoskeleton fools the plant into thinking it is under attack, and turns on its immune response to create killer helper cells, before an attack actually occurs, which makes the plant more resistent to bugs, pathogens, and disease, as well as against frost and heat damage. It tricks the plants to become stronger, BEFORE an attack may come. A little goes a long way. This stuff can burn with it's high levels of nitrogen in salty form, even after bewing in a tea. The microbe digestion action in the tea will 'soften' the salty nutrients in the Mexican Guano to more plant available forms, but still too much will fry the plants. Other Guano's are a little more forgiving.)
--1tsp<->1TBSP High Nitrogen Mexican Bat Guano, usually something like 10-3-1 NPK - per 1gallon of water, depending on the stage of plant life and how strong you want to feed them actual EC/PPM NPK Ca Mg +trace minerals value. The alfalfa is rich in Nitrogen as well, so not too much, we just want to draw out the microbes, mainly, and get some NPK value as a bonus.


Brew the concoction with the least amount of water you can, so that the most amount of oxygen from your pump will increase dissolved oxygen levels in that smaller amount of water, then dilute before feeding to proper amount if you have to. Super high incredible levels of oxygen being pumped into the tea is key here, or you'll be feeding what you think is good brew, but will be shit.


If not to follow precicely, then just to give ideas for you. I would use this to feed nice strong vegging plants.
This is not for young plants, although you could dilute this 50/50, or even to only 25% strength cut it in 4 and will still provide incredible nutrition and diverse life to the soil.


You could also use Peruvian Seabird Guano which is usually something like 10-10-2.5, instead of the Mexican bat guano, or even both in small quantities each here. The PSG is super potent and very nutrition containing elements from the ocean, like Seaweeds/Kelp, and unique diverse microbes from the sea. It's packed with NPK Ca Mg and all trace minerals. Birds eat the fish, those fish have been eating other fish, and so on eating little micro creatures and feeding on seaweeds. Highly nutritious and why it is 10-10-2.5 and complete. I use PSG that is in pellet form, and just toss a few in the tea for extra microbes that wouldn't be there otherwise. This is the way. Microbe diversity, from many many sources.


Smoked a fatty, and this is what happens, it's good shit! ...I don't mean to... teach you or anything, it's just so you understand a couple things in my mixes. cya Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Just sharing, I wrote this a while ago. :joint:
 
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BRANDON77

Well-Known Member
how do my ratios look for a 36 hour bubbled tea????

1 CUP EWC

2 TBL KELP MEAL

1 TBL ALFALFA MEAL

1 TBL OATS

1 TBL GUANO

1 TBL MOLASSES

1 TBL LIQUID HUMIC/FULVIC
 
Johnei

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Assuming this is for about 4gallons or a llittle more water, It looks good, only small suggestions I can make is:
Only use 1heaping TBSP of the Kelp meal, and only 1 teaspoon of the liquid humic/fulvic for whole tea. EWC is rich in humic/fulvic substances and the extra free floating humics you add will detract the microbes from their goal, it's not really needed in the tea, or if used, in micro micro doses just to help chelate the already digested minerals at the end of the brew for plant uptake. The kelp meal just will not get broken down in this time and so much is not needed; Mixing kelp meal in soil I use 1Tablespoon/gal. soil, using in tea I use 1teaspoon/gal. in the brew. So in 4+gal. bucket brew, about a heaping tablespoon. Your tea looks good! If you want it to lean to more N or to more P, use the guanos, increasing extra tablespoon of different kinds etc.

Good growing!

-edit-Besides the EWC.. basically everything listed do 1teaspoon/gal water, except humic/fulvic; only 1teaspoon per entire tea. I think this is best.
 
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MrKnotty

Well-Known Member
I gave my ladies their first comfrey tea of the season. They just flipped into flower. I just let comfrey sit in water for 3 days. Strain and dilute. Sometimes I add a little BIM to these soaks, sometimes I don't. It's quite amazing the response the plants have after this tea. Try it if you haven't, it will stay in your tea schedule I promise!
 
Hpo777

Hpo777

Member
NEVER USE – Blackstrap molasses*** If you do some of your own reading online about compost tea brewing one of the biggest things you will run across is the recommendation to use blackstrap molasses as the microbial food in the tea. This used to be widely accepted as a great way of brewing tea. The issue is that without a firm understanding of soil biology and what microbes look like under a microscope people actually brew up anaerobic teas the majority of the time with blackstrap molasses. This is why that happens even with an air pump -- molasses is a simple sugar which feeds bacterial populations very quickly basically as junk food. As the bacterial populations grow they take over the entire tea and use up all the oxygen, this causes the tea to become anaerobic as soon as the ppm (parts per million) of dissolved oxygen drop below 8 (6ppm is the critical point). There are plenty of bacteria all over this planet and we really don’t need to brew up heavy bacterial teas, rather we want to brew up complex teas that have a huge variety of life in them, not only bacteria but also fungi, protozoa and nematodes. When you only feed simple sugars to the microbiology in the tea brewing process the bacteria will out multiply all the other good guys and take over the entire tea. We instead feed complex foods to the tea so the fungi, protozoa and nematodes have a chance to grow and multiply. If you really want to use molasses in your brewing it is highly advisable to also get yourself a microscope so you can monitor the tea and make sure you use it before it goes anaerobic. As that is not practical for most home gardeners your best bet is to follow our simple recipes for wonderful results.


Whoa...just read this...hes a dam smart man
 
404NotFound

404NotFound

Well-Known Member
Might be a noon question but, I have tea I've been brewing in my garage, WMC to be exact and it's been cold so I haven't had bubbles/foam. It's warmed up a little with the help of a heater near it now and I have a foam now to know something's going on, but the smell to me is a little off. So would it be good since I have activity in the container now or would it not since it doesn't quite smell earthy?
 

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maxamus1

maxamus1

Well-Known Member
Hey guys how often are you guys doing teas and what not? This will be my fourth grow in soil an I'm not getting the results I'm wanting and the only thing I can think of is I'm not feeding em enough. BTW I'm doing a tea once a month or so.
 
M

MrKnotty

Well-Known Member
404NotFound said:
Might be a noon question but, I have tea I've been brewing in my garage, WMC to be exact and it's been cold so I haven't had bubbles/foam. It's warmed up a little with the help of a heater near it now and I have a foam now to know something's going on, but the smell to me is a little off. So would it be good since I have activity in the container now or would it not since it doesn't quite smell earthy?
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Having bubbles or foam is not the mark of a great tea just a heads up. It's a good thing to have, but not having your tea foam up isn't a big deal. Now if you think the smell of your tea is off than that is something to worry about. Unfortunately there is no way for someone to really tell you if it's still good. That's going to have to be a gut call by you. Foul smells though usually equate to something you want to toss.
 
404NotFound

404NotFound

Well-Known Member
MrKnotty said:
Having bubbles or foam is not the mark of a great tea just a heads up. It's a good thing to have, but not having your tea foam up isn't a big deal. Now if you think the smell of your tea is off than that is something to worry about. Unfortunately there is no way for someone to really tell you if it's still good. That's going to have to be a gut call by you. Foul smells though usually equate to something you want to toss.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the input man. I'll go with my gut and restart over.
 
R

Robert "Bob" Dobbs

New Member
Basically just follow this and dont overthink anything. Microbes dont give a fuck about anything but oxygen and sugars to multiply. You wanna hit 36 hours so all of the protozoa hatch from their cists and you have a healthy mixture of fungi, bacteria and protozoa. you will spend more money on additives than you need if you dont keep it simple.

TL;DR:

4 gal RO water
2 cups vermicompost/
5.5 tablespoons blackstrap molasses.

take it from the man who knows whats up:


interview w/ microbeman:

 
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