adjust ph before or after adding nutes?

C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Carolina Dream'n said:
Silicon deficiency are vary rare, along with molybdenum, does not make it not a nutrient.

"A silicon deficiency prevents the plant from developing strong leaves stems or roots. It also makes the plant more susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases and insect infestation. The plan also exhibits a reduction in it's photosynthetic activity and overall yield is reduced."-marijuana gardener saver by J.C Stitch.
Click to expand...
I didn't ask how rare it was, I asked what a silicon deficiency looks like. I don't even know what a silicon deficiency would look like if i saw one.
 
Carolina Dream'n

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
I didn't ask how rare it was, I asked what a silicon deficiency looks like. I don't even know what a silicon deficiency would look like if i saw one.
Click to expand...
Incase you missed it
"A silicon deficiency prevents the plant from developing strong leaves stems or roots. It also makes the plant more susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases and insect infestation. The plan also exhibits a reduction in it's photosynthetic activity and overall yield is reduced."-marijuana gardener saver by J.C Stitch.
 
Mad_Prophessor

Mad_Prophessor

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
I put 4 gallons of hard tap into a DWC, inject 40mL of technaflora pH down (nitric acid based), and then add my nutrients.. Then I never check the pH, because it always comes out between 5.4-6.0.

There's no point of checking the pH of the water before it has nutrients in it, but I add the pH down first, because I already know exactly how much it would take if it did it afterwards.
Click to expand...
This is exactly what I do and for the same reason.
 
Carolina Dream'n

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
az2000 said:
I used silica for a couple years. I stopped. I can't say I notice any difference after replacing the K that the silica product contributed. (I.e., I suspect it's a higher K ratio people equate to stronger plants.).
Click to expand...
I did a side by side years ago, I will always run silica.
 
A

adower

Well-Known Member
PH after. My water starts at 8.0 PH. Once I add nutes it drops to 6.2. From there I add a little PH down to get it to 5.8ph.
 
M1ChAeL

M1ChAeL

Active Member
I think this has been well and truly covered.........YES, I mean no err, not sure mate.....always EC first then ph and if it's hydro temperature of solution.
 
M1ChAeL

M1ChAeL

Active Member
Carolina Dream'n said:
I did a side by side years ago, I will always run silica.
Click to expand...
Carolina Dream'n said:
Silicon deficiency are vary rare, along with molybdenum, does not make it not a nutrient.

"A silicon deficiency prevents the plant from developing strong leaves stems or roots. It also makes the plant more susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases and insect infestation. The plan also exhibits a reduction in it's photosynthetic activity and overall yield is reduced."-marijuana gardener saver by J.C Stitch.
Click to expand...
Silicon is a very important nutrient to a plant, one many growers overlook too often apart from it building cell walls to fight pests and diseases, heat and stresses, it does a great job at transporting nutrients in a way you wouldn't know till you use it from roots to bud tip, you will gain from using silica products in your feeding regimen.
 
MJCanada

MJCanada

Well-Known Member
Stop feeding the hydro troll... or is it the soil troll(s)??? I'm not sure anymore...

You guys do realize that both answers are correct right?

Hydro - Res balancing (check it before, so you put nutes+res top up in to balance it, then check again to make sure you didn't fuck up your adjustment)

Soil - feed water balancing (only check it after nutes go in, cause feed water doesn't change soil PH... much, because of the soil buffers)

Am I the only one that saw that 56 posts ago?
 
C

Curbcalamitous

Member
We're I think alot of you are forgetting if your not using RO water you should check the pH of the water your using. If it's to out of range you will have issues with nutes that are pH sensitive. But you always have to check after adding nutes to ensure it is still in correct range. MY water starts at pH 7 which is neutral so I don't need to pH before but other place I've lived I did.
 
B

BroDeewizzler

New Member
Mad_Prophessor said:
I have a 35 gallon tank that I have to PH, it takes just a little more than a couple drops.

Just to be clear as there seems to be a bit of confusion. You do NOT want to add your PH solution (up or down) to your feed water. The straight shot of acid can react adversely with the nutes. This is why you want to ph before you add the food and give it time to dissipate. This is in the cases that you NEED to ph. If your water comes out at 8.0 and your nutes raise it 1.0, then you should ph your water down to 6.0 (5.8) if you are shooting for around 7.0 (6.8) before you add the nutes.

Why would you want to add acid to your feed water? Doesn't it make more sense to have the water ready to just add the nutes and then feed instead of adding acid to your feed water? This really isn't a difficult concept. Some mutha fuckers are always trying to ice-skate up hill.
Click to expand...
When using Silica Acids, ALWAYS ADD PH UP OR DOWN AFTER MIXING NUTRITION
 
I

ionm

New Member
chuck estevez said:
from general hydro
Answer: When first starting out it is a good idea to measure the pH of your water every day, until you get a feel for your system. Measure your water and then add your nutrients. Within an hour check the pH and adjust accordingly. Repeat this process until pH stabilizes. The liquid Flora Series has special pH buffers to help maintain a desirable pH. It is a good idea to note how much water, nutrients and pH modifiers are needed to obtain the desired values. After several "start- ups" you can generally get a feel for how much acid or base to use for your situation. Frequently pH stays within a desirable range for a considerable time, and then rapidly rises or falls to an extreme. This is usually an indication of the need to do a nutrient change. If you are using hard water, pH has the tendency to climb above 7.5. Sometimes this can be neutralized with acid, though one might consider adding a reverse osmosis unit in an extreme case.

http://generalhydroponics.com/site/index.php/resources/faqs/ph_dynamics_and_adjustment/
Click to expand...
Hi.I also need help I'm using floramax a&b and they have feed charts for hard water and soft water(mine its hard 7.3ppm).
Now what should I do as hard water feed chart says 1.5 ml/L and the soft one 2.5ml/L. Should I do use the hard water feed chart as mine it's hard water at 7.3ph or should I get the pH down first at 5.8 like and then add the nutes accordingly to soft water feed chart.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top