alien defiency or what???

BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fertilizer-Burn.jpg -- An example of fertilizer burn...

Sometimes, overwatering can lead to PH imbalances that will block out nutrients at many levels, nutrient burns can come in many shape, forms and sizes, and do not necessarily need to produce a "Reddish brown" leaf tips to show itself..
Overwatering can produce this same effect.
Spotty leaf necrosis can also be from hand watering the plant and getting water on the leaf which then acts as a magnifying glass on the leaf.
 
breadbox

breadbox

Member
hyroot said:
no nute burns.. nute burns start with redish brown tips then the spreads along the edges then leaves will flare..

the rest looks healthy. so imo the boron def was caused by ph that is off. with organic soil. ph is irrelevant, id say brew a tea with worm castings, compost, kelp meal , and alfalfa meal.. that should cover iit. you can also strain a little bit and use as a foliar too.

most issues with soil cam easily be fixed with teas.

also at least twice a week do a foliar spray of kelp meal and aloe vera. (not bottled kelp) . foliar spray ipm's (intergrated pest management) once or twice a week , brew a tea of dried stinging nettle , dried rosemary, dried lavender. once in a while add cayenne peppers


read these threads

https://www.rollitup.org/t/recycled-organic-living-soil-rols-and-no-till-thread.636057/

https://www.rollitup.org/t/total-noob-using-teas-and-i-am-a-believer.676040/

https://www.rollitup.org/t/beneficial-indigenous-micro-organisms-or-bim.762400/

https://www.rollitup.org/t/vermicomposters-unite-official-worm-farmers-thread.637587/

https://www.rollitup.org/t/so-who-here-is-growing-in-true-organic-living-soil.583341/
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When you sau foliar... meaning spray onto the leaves on the plant correct?
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
If you know your water is 8.0 and your soil is 6.5, when you water, it should come out close to the neutral PH that you want, without adjusting. In cases like this, I watch the plant and wait for the magnesium deficiency that usually comes with this "geustimation".

Sometimes what will happen is with soil grows you can water with a higher ph'd water but then the dirt stays wet and becomes acidic sitting around.. at which point you add a little bit of lime with magnesium.. and that should balance the PH and give it the little bit of magnesium it needs because it's been out of whack.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
breadbox said:
How often do i feed with molasses?
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i use it in teas once every 2 weeks. then last 2 or 3 waterings with molasses /water .

i water the rest with seed sprout enzyme teas


if you stick to pure organics. you will never have to worry about ph. coco, oystershell flour, lime, compost, worm castings, tea's all buffer and /or regulate ph naturally
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
for seed sprout enzyme teas



I sprout mung beans or barley seeds. Then puree and add to water. When they sprout enzymes are activated and the endosperm releases all kinds of enzymes and minerals.





Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0

Jon Stika of Brew Your Own Magazine describes malt as "barley that has been sprouted to the point where enzymes are produced that will convert its starchy interior to sugar." After the grain has been malted, the sugar is fermented by yeast to make beer.

This is an accurate overview of an article he wrote for those who want to make their own malt and here's the Reader's Digest version:

Weigh out 2 oz. of Barley seed and remove any foreign matter by the seeds into a large jar and fill it half-way with water and agitate to wash the barley. Pour off loose husks & dirt that float to the top. Drain in a colander. Repeat until everything has been removed.

Soak the seeds in water for 8 - 10 hours. Drain the seeds and weigh after completely draining the water off. Assuming you started with 56 grams, you want to hit a minimum of 84 grams at the end of these processes.

Let the Barley rest for 8 - 10 hours and then soak for another 8 hours, drain and weigh. Repeat if necessary but that's not too unlikely.

Take a piece of cloth and you want to use something as 'raw' as possible like hemp cloth, organic cotton, linen, canvas, flax, etc. - just check with a large fabric store. If you buy a piece that is a square it probably helps or doesn't.

Wet your cloth, wring out and fold it 2 times. During the rest cycles this is where you want to let the seeds rest. You want moisture surrounding the seeds but not water.

Once you hit 84+ grams, spread your seeds again in the middle of this folded piece of fabric, place that in a brown paper bag - 55F - 65F ambient temperatures will move this along quickly.

When the shoots inside the seed have grown the length of the seed you're done. You're not growing sprouts but rather activating the enzymes and the compounds in the endosperm .

Take these seeds and put them in a blender and some water and get it to a puree to the extent possible. Using 56 grams to start will give enough puree to make 5 gallons of tea.

Water your plants with this diluted tea. This will give you far, far more enzymes than the straight sprouting method. One thing about beer brewers is that they live & die by enzyme levels extracted from seeds and this article is cited on several home brew forums.

Cann said: ↑
The barley seed tea is all about enzymes. the same reason I use young coconut h2o. when a seed germinates, the contents of the seed (endosperm) provide everything the young plant needs for life. we are effectively harvesting the goodies that the endosperm creates and applying it to our plants. enzymes are catalysts that increase the speed of reactions by insane amounts (sometimes up to 1000000x faster than the reaction with no enzyme) - basically they help facilitate a bunch of interactions that are going on with your plant, therefore increasing overall health/speed of growth. you've probably seen pictures around here of "praying" leaves...or the so called "jesus effect" (lol) - I get that reaction the most when I apply a barley seed tea.


"Here's why you wouldn't want to soak any seed (only) and try to use the soaking water: many seeds are encoded with enzymes on the hull's exterior and the immediate interior. These enzymes prevent germination unless the conditions are right, i.e. they're growth inhibitors. Not Plant Growth Regulators but out and out inhibitors.​
Cann said: ↑
Once a seed germinates, the developing endosperm creates other enzymes that neutralize the inhibitors, converting them into a food source for the emerging tap-root."


a.k.a. you want to discard the soak water and rinse thoroughly before you germinate and refill the vessel with h2o..or else you will be doing the opposite of what we want.​
The lazy mans option for enzymes is to use young coconut h2o. it is much more expensive than barley (both are still way cheaper than bottled nutes!) but contains many similar goodies.

Here is another past quote from ClackamasCootz, RE: young coconut water



"The big ones are Cytokinins, Gibberellins (GAs), Enzymes (in particular amylase, arylsulphatase, β-glucosidase, cellulase, chitinase, dehydrogenase, phosphatase, protease, and urease), Indole-3-Acetic Acid (IAA)......

Young coconuts are embryos and the water will begin to adhere to the inside of the shell and solidifies forming coconut meat or whatever it's called.You can expect to get around 12 oz. in a fresh one shown in the original post. Ripe coconuts will contain very little water and much lower benefits because they're now contained in this seed's endosperm (coconut meat).

Coconuts are one of the richest sources of Cytokinins which accelerates cell division in the plant which differs from how PGRs function.

HTH

CC"
 
breadbox

breadbox

Member
BenFranklin said:
If you know your water is 8.0 and your soil is 6.5, when you water, it should come out close to the neutral PH that you want, without adjusting. In cases like this, I watch the plant and wait for the magnesium deficiency that usually comes with this "geustimation".

Sometimes what will happen is with soil grows you can water with a higher ph'd water but then the dirt stays wet and becomes acidic sitting around.. at which point you add a little bit of lime with magnesium.. and that should balance the PH and give it the little bit of magnesium it needs because it's been out of whack.
Click to expand...
IS there anything i can do to prevent this mag deficiency?
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
See.. that's the whole thing, you can feed the damn things perfectly, there's so many variables within that to say "yes it can be prevented" or "No it can't" , would be lying... LOL!
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
Because the plant transitions between nutrient uptakes between different periods of its life, there will in many cases be some sort of leaf degradation, sometimes it's good, sometimes it's not and then you have to decide if the degradation is "fixable". OR if it is something that is "supposed to happen".

Obviously in the very beginning of life, you don't want ANY leaf degradation.
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
breadbox... to me, it sounds like you are WAY over watering... a gallon a week on that little plant... That's quite a lot. IMO, unless you're running a hybrid/hydro soil that drains so quick that you need to water that much.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
nutrients are like lighting. you don't need high n in veg and high p in flower. you want an even balance through out the whole grow.. less is more. granted some strains uptake more specific nutes than others. so adjust accordingly..
 
breadbox

breadbox

Member
BenFranklin said:
Because the plant transitions between nutrient uptakes between different periods of its life, there will in many cases be some sort of leaf degradation, sometimes it's good, sometimes it's not and then you have to decide if the degradation is "fixable". OR if it is something that is "supposed to happen".

Obviously in the very beginning of life, you don't want ANY leaf degradation.
Click to expand...

You mean like this one lol.. its the same age as my biggest one about a month
 

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breadbox

breadbox

Member
BenFranklin said:
breadbox... to me, it sounds like you are WAY over watering... a gallon a week on that little plant... That's quite a lot. IMO, unless you're running a hybrid/hydro soil that drains so quick that you need to water that much.
Click to expand...
Well i have 20 ladies.. i water once a day until the bottoms leaks a little...
 
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