All Natural Organics. The Dons' Summaries + FAQ Thread. <2017-'18>

andy s

Well-Known Member
Get a friend to, if you can, even If you have to wait til xmas or bday, its worth it. It's 100% legal to receive a gift / collectable as well, if its labelled as such then you can't be harassed.
ya thats what ive heard im gonna have to try and find someone who can and would do that for me lol. can people pm each other on here?
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
ya thats what ive heard im gonna have to try and find someone who can and would do that for me lol. can people pm each other on here?
Just gotta:
Go to INBOX, then scroll down to START A NEW CONVO, bud

@giglewigle in Canada, and USA, if declaring something as a gift, under $100 in value, then its exempt from certain export import laws/ACTS. If declared as souvenir, one can possess them legally even where its illegal to grow, cause if not intended to grow (people do collect all sorts of shit, right, laws could change in future too and one has a right to amass a collection for future use) then whats the big deal. That's how I understand it, anyway, lol.

Besides, Canada is now setting up shop all over the world, some of the LP's are already at markets caps in the billions of dollars range. Its now big business, and a slew of commercial commodities.. they secretly enterprised it.
 

andy s

Well-Known Member
Just gotta:
Go to INBOX, then scroll down to START A NEW CONVO, bud

@giglewigle in Canada, and USA, if declaring something as a gift, under $100 in value, then its exempt from certain export import laws/ACTS. If declared as souvenir, one can possess them legally even where its illegal to grow, cause if not intended to grow (people do collect all sorts of shit, right, laws could change in future too and one has a right to amass a collection for future use) then whats the big deal. That's how I understand it, anyway, lol.

Besides, Canada is now setting up shop all over the world, some of the LP's are already at markets caps in the billions of dollars range. Its now big business, and a slew of commercial commodities.. they secretly enterprised it.
alright ill try to pm ya lol. and exactly, souvenirs !! that was the word i couldnt think of lastnight haha
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
heya DonTesla!
Ha we must be riding the same wave :blsmoke:
Premium Aeration

which we consider to be both mineral lending and humus forming, as well as bio-supportive:
  • fully charged biochar(s)
  • rinsed pumice(s)
  • diatomite rocks (Si)
  • perhaps trace of iron rich sand for potential CBD / Fe mineral boost
(yes, we dislike vermiculite & perlite now for a few reasons)

plus some of the great humus forming aspects and other traces whenever available / willing to hike, such as;
  • well composted, well rotted wood(s)
  • composted organic buckwheat hulls / rice hulls,
  • finished leaf mould
  • etc etc
I love this combination!

I just recently acquired a bag of diatomaceous earth and have begun using it in my mixes - as part of the aeration component too.
Whereby it is also showing tremendous water-holding capacity in this finely ground form (a tad much actually when overdone lol).
So reading diatomite rocks - ah YES! :mrgreen: You put the dot on the i, DonTesla!
I haven't seen anything of the sort, but will defo keep an eye open, I can totally see how it will be an excellent ingredient!

Pre-use Topdress:
with fungal food mix and grow some mycelium beforehand, such as organic oats, ground into flour strained through a sifter, finer the powder the better.
I got myself some oat bran for a similar purpose - to promote the fungal population of my vermicompost post harvest and prep up new soil mixes. Since oats are actually a seed, we would want a maximum of the carbon-rich parts of what otherwise is high in nitrogen, ergo bacterial food. Hence the bran, and hence I suspect you could skip the sifting and even have benefits from doing less (always a goods sign? :D)
Cheers! :bigjoint:
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
heya DonTesla!
Ha we must be riding the same wave :blsmoke:

I love this combination!

I just recently acquired a bag of diatomaceous earth and have begun using it in my mixes - as part of the aeration component too.
Whereby it is also showing tremendous water-holding capacity in this finely ground form (a tad much actually when overdone lol).
So reading diatomite rocks - ah YES! :mrgreen: You put the dot on the i, DonTesla!
I haven't seen anything of the sort, but will defo keep an eye open, I can totally see how it will be an excellent ingredient!


I got myself some oat bran for a similar purpose - to promote the fungal population of my vermicompost post harvest and prep up new soil mixes. Since oats are actually a seed, we would want a maximum of the carbon-rich parts of what otherwise is high in nitrogen, ergo bacterial food. Hence the bran, and hence I suspect you could skip the sifting and even have benefits from doing less (always a goods sign? :D)
Cheers! :bigjoint:
Hey Calli!

How was your Elaine Ingram composting course! Did you learn a lot?

As for DE Rocks, NICE, glad you are digging 'em! They are one of our top favs, both for a top dress as well as as in the mix.. they have a lot of benefits! They change color when moist, to an orangish tinge, and back to white when dry, so as the mediums topsoil becomes less moist, you can tell which ones are ready for a misting or top watering just by color.

Of course, they don't clump up like the powder will, and they also interrupt many life cycles of various pests..and thats just the start!

I still like to powder anything used though, but thats just me, have you used it powdered to see if you note any differences?
 

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DonTesla

Well-Known Member
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Diatomite Rock is a naturally mined mineral composed entirely of the skeletal remains of trillions of microscopic, unicellular plankton called diatoms. It permanently improves heavy soils and horticultural growing media because it is indefinitely stable and non-compactable. The porous aggregate particles wet rapidly and will absorb greater than 100% of their own weight in water, acting as a reservoir for plant available water and nutrients. It protects against rot and slowly releases Silica.

Over the millennia the diatoms have been compressed to create one of the most effective growing mediums available. Diatomite consists of approximately 90% silicon dioxide, with the remainder of its contents being elemental minerals, such as iron, which are essential for plant growth.

Absorbency & Porosity - Diatomite is naturally very porous, and can hold 100-150% of its weight in water. The Silica Content, natural Absorbency, and Porous qualities result in a slow release of water and nutrients to your plants, contributing to higher yields and less watering.

Capillary Action & Lateral Movement - The porosity of the Diatomite contributes to its ability to draw water, while moving water and nutrients laterally throughout the medium, making Diatomite ideal for hydroponics.

With an ideal pore size of 0.1 to 1.0 microns, Diatomite Rock acts as a water and nutrient reservoir for plant roots enabling them to withstand common environmental stresses, such as drought and temperature extremes, more easily.

DT:
There are several companies and brands now starting to carry it, which is great for us gardeners!



Some more info for anyone interested:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth

View attachment 4046801
(diatomite in rock form)
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
okay so im now desprete for worm food can i use that powdered vegetable stuff in my worm farm im hoping i can use a combination of that and kelp meal
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
okay so im now desprete for worm food can i use that powdered vegetable stuff in my worm farm im hoping i can use a combination of that and kelp meal
Like whole food super greens? If so, Id say thats extremely expensive.. Some other cheaper sources include sand, coco coir, banana peels, eggshell powder, not to mention their own castings, which they will re-refine a couple times no problem. If temps and moisture aren't harsh extremes they can stay alive for a long time.

Start some borage or comfrey or even non gmo corn, when you can too, they grow big leaves fast.
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
Like whole food super greens? If so, Id say thats extremely expensive.. Some other cheaper sources include sand, coco coir, banana peels, eggshell powder, not to mention their own castings, which they will re-refine a couple times no problem. If temps and moisture aren't harsh extremes they can stay alive for a long time.

Start some borage or comfrey or even non gmo corn, when you can too, they grow big leaves fast.
only reason im considering it is im not gunna use it cuse i dident like it im planing on geting a water melon or somthing theres plenty of coco bedding in there i pretty mutch fill it with the bedding lake sure its moist enough and bury food in there i might get some kelp meal too iv apso got a root ball should i wash a tje dirt away and grind it and put that in also iv got some dynamic lifter witch is basicly composted then pelletized chiken poop can i use this i also have a liquid version but last time i ised that it got that wet smell and got this white mold i dont know if thats good or not tho im also tryna find out more about knf like can i ferment the root ball of a cannabis plant and if so what its uses would be im trina get there numbers up so i can get more castings sooner athe end of the day tho i dont mind buying a bit of fruit and veg for em cuse at the end id rather do tjat then spend mony on bottled nutrients
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Learning quite a bit in this thread.
Question on getting rid of fungus nats in week 5 of flower?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
CCG
Top dress quality worm castings or non manure compost. They will be gone in a week.

You can place a bowl of water in the corner to catch the flyers. They just look for water. Then drown themselves when they find it.
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
found this got half a compost tumbler full of a cheap shot potting soil added some grass clippings gunna ad this to it let it sit for a couple months im gunaa ad an airation mix to it maybe som coco gunna ad some rock dusts do it i rekon this will do for now and cuse i donrt have castings i figure im instead going 2 add the worms straight to the pot doas this look produck look good Screenshot_20171125-190744.pngor i may just use it to top dress there was anotjer one 2 that im thinking of getting but i cant decide Screenshot_20171125-190744.png Screenshot_20171125-185923.png whad do use think i should get for the price im tninking the six in one cuse iv got plenty of seaweed products
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
only reason im considering it is...
I would put the super greens / green drink powder into capsules and still take them yourself, bud. & for a better tasting solution with even more energy, try fresh wheatgrass sprouts/ shots, cuke-water, or a mint flavoured liquid green drink, those are some of my favs anyway.

The root ball I would just put into the worm farm as is, maybe with a bit of castings butted up against the root ball, so its embedded a bit, but I would leave the top exposed, so you can see exactly where it is.. one day you will lift it out and it will be full of fresh castings.

For the Chicken Poop I would actually avoid that myself, unless they were my own chickens, neighbours etc, but since you have it, maybe have 2 worm farms and then have a predominantly chicken-fed worm farm. Then run another thats higher-end inputs, a cleaner, all vegetarian diet. That's what I would do if using it anyway.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

As for the DinoFert and Super 6, no way - those look like some lower-end slaughterhouse-rich by-product-type-products, quickly slapped together with no love and repacked/ quickly branded as a low grade to mediocre-at-best so called 'complete soil'.

You would be way better off with amending your own base with a few higher quality inputs and simply aerating it with a nice pumice.

OR

You also have a company called Living Soil right there in AU, also on IG, they actually make a good little living mix, I would sooner see you support them vs some idiotic / gross factory farm supporting company. They are much more in line with our values and clean style. Technically they could be competition in the future, but for now, I see them as a compadre. Check em out; It's pretty much exactly what we're building here in Canada except they use bottled stuff a fair bit and we don't. Although looks like we will be shipping our mineral blend, meal blend, and aeration blends world wide! Our living soil blend meanwhile, will likely be contained to trade shows, select regional stores, and of course, online for Canadians.

Screen Shot 2017-11-26 at 4.52.21 PM.png
 
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DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Some of the Dons' fav. tips for fighting fungus gnats:
  1. use Diatomaceous Earth Rocks (not POWDER) i.e. diatomite to create a 2" sharp, life-cycle rock barrier on top of the topsoil.
  2. can also use thick slices of potato to lure the larvae / babies, then discard them as they gather. (Be sure to use at least one inch thick slices, if too thin they will dry fast and then the larvae won't stay confident in it as a grounds for growing up)
  3. dry the top a bit then reinoculate with bacteria dominated tea / fresh worm castings top dress. *
  4. mist herb-infused waters they detest, such as lavender.
  5. set yellow sticky traps (even DIY ones work, they also like blue)
  6. during veg, use Rove Beetles (aka Dolotia Coriaria) and or Hypoaspis Miles Predators (Strateolaelaps Scimitus)
  7. can also use NEMS for the larva (Latin name: Steinernema feltia)
  8. plant a few organic garlic cloves around the stems
  9. roots of French Marigolds are toxic to bad nematodes and many larvae
  10. pyrethrum companion plants can also aid in fighting various pest pressures
  11. lots of airflow can help them stay grounded and thwart their progress too
  12. liquid traps with water / Apple Cider Vinegar / beer also work well for trapping / drowning.
@CanadainClosetGrower
* I avoid going much over 20% of total volume of EWC for cleaner burning and tighter nodal spacing. & I never top dress castings or anything for that matter in the last few weeks of flower. I would rather make long term notes / adjustments / fine tune tweaks and keep the short term crop cleaner and higher grade. Remember that the biology accounts for 90% of the energy / production, so the smartest thing you can do is get used to larger pots / mulches that don't cause problems.

If you want tips for other bugs let me know

Thanks guys,
Stay Organic,

DT
 

Canadain Closet Gardener

Well-Known Member
Some of the Dons' fav. tips for fighting fungus gnats:
  1. use Diatomaceous Earth Rocks (not POWDER) i.e. diatomite to create a 2" sharp, life-cycle rock barrier on top of the topsoil.
  2. can also use thick slices of potato to lure the larvae / babies, then discard them as they gather. (Be sure to use at least one inch thick slices, if too thin they will dry fast and then the larvae won't stay confident in it as a grounds for growing up)
  3. dry the top a bit then reinoculate with bacteria dominated tea / fresh worm castings top dress. *
  4. mist herb-infused waters they detest, such as lavender.
  5. set yellow sticky traps (even DIY ones work, they also like blue)
  6. during veg, use Rove Beetles (aka Dolotia Coriaria) and or Hypoaspis Miles Predators (Strateolaelaps Scimitus)
  7. can also use NEMS for the larva (Latin name: Steinernema feltia)
  8. plant a few organic garlic cloves around the stems
  9. roots of French Marigolds are toxic to bad nematodes and many larvae
  10. pyrethrum companion plants can also aid in fighting various pest pressures
  11. lots of airflow can help them stay grounded and thwart their progress too
  12. liquid traps with water / Apple Cider Vinegar / beer also work well for trapping / drowning.
@CanadainClosetGrower
* I avoid going much over 20% of total volume of EWC for cleaner burning and tighter nodal spacing. & I never top dress castings or anything for that matter in the last few weeks of flower. I would rather make long term notes / adjustments / fine tune tweaks and keep the short term crop cleaner and higher grade. Remember that the biology accounts for 90% of the energy / production, so the smartest thing you can do is get used to larger pots / mulches that don't cause problems.

If you want tips for other bugs let me know

Thanks guys,
Stay Organic,

DT
Thanks
I bought a bunch of yellow sticky paper from china. So much less expesive.
Been doing the apple cyder viniger traps.
I have been using DE but in the powder form.
Question i was going to ask

Would mosquitoes dunks hurt my plants or more importantly me?
Cheers
CCG
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
seems a bit too expensive for me at the moment at that rate id rather pay for the subs or the coots compost for around a 100 atleats that would go further hopefully in the future when i can maintain a notill style i might but shit i know its quality n stuff but still it all seems over priced 50 dollers for 20 liters fuck that think im gunna put that mony for stuff for my castings and start there lol i hate not having mony
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Thanks
I bought a bunch of yellow sticky paper from china. So much less expesive.
Been doing the apple cyder viniger traps.
I have been using DE but in the powder form.
Question i was going to ask

Would mosquitoes dunks hurt my plants or more importantly me?
Cheers
CCG
Mosquito dunks are BTI, a completely natural bacterial based larvicide which @DonBrennon and I just spoke about in the Dons Organic Garden aka our original / main thread. I forgot to include it. Bacillus thuringiensis (subspecies) Israelensis. Safe for pets and us as well so they say, although I wouldn't drink it myself, of course.

As for DE powder, it could work in a sealed SIP application where there is zero to no top watering but it clumps up after it gets wet, so I never use it. Even if mixing into the mix itself, I use pure diatomite / DE Rocks .. From fresh water sources free of Al but with traces of Fe. Awesome stuff. Remarkable really .. I am attaching a pic of it so you can all see it in its' true form. DE powder is more for animals imo.

image.jpg

Note the rinsed version on the left that turned orange.. and the dry bagged version to the right, which is really white!
Ps Wear a mask when doing the initial rinse.. Then you are all good. Its algae (diatoms specifically) compressed into a lovely, porous, fossil rock.

 
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Canadain Closet Gardener

Well-Known Member
Mosquito dunks are BTI, a completely natural bacterial based larvicide which @DonBrennon and I just spoke about in the Dons Organic Garden aka our original / main thread. I forgot to include it. Bacillus thuringiensis (subspecies) Israelensis. Safe for pets and us as well so they say, although I wouldn't drink it myself, of course.

As for DE powder, it could work in a sealed SIP application where there is zero to no top watering but it clumps up after it gets wet, so I never use it. Even if mixing into the mix itself, I use pure diatomite / DE Rocks .. From fresh water sources free of Al but with traces of Fe. Awesome stuff. Remarkable really .. I am attaching a pic of it so you can all see it in its' true form. DE powder is more for animals imo.

View attachment 4049037

Note the rinsed version on the left and the dry bagged version to the right. Wear a mask when doing the initial rinse.. Then you are all good. Its algae (diatoms specifically) compressed into a lovely, porous, fossil rock.
Thank you
Going to pick some Dunks tomorrow, going to love the look of the cashier when I buy them. We have snow on the ground at the moment.
I want to kill off all the fungus gnats before I order a worm bin. I was hoping for a Black Friday for a sale but maybe a cyber Monday sale.
Any thoughts on the Worm Factory 360?
Cheers
CCG
 
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