All Natural Organics. The Dons' Summaries + FAQ Thread. <2017-'18>

DonTesla said:
I would probably create little holes the size of toilet paper rolls and plug em up with castings, in and around the plant, just outside the rootball.. top with a fungal food and then mulch
Click to expand...
I do something similar, tho usually only on above ground veggies but this is a coco noTill run so I figured why not lol.
15 gal pot + 3 or 4 inch netpots.

Will be adding top dressings/benies/fungi to the netpots, and a very very small amount of alfalfa meal. Filling the netpots half way or fully with pumice works well too.
 

Attachments

  • DSC04170.JPG
    DSC04170.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 10
  • DSC04176.JPG
    DSC04176.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 10
Bubblin said:
I do something similar, tho usually only on above ground veggies but this is a coco noTill run so I figured why not lol.
15 gal pot + 3 or 4 inch netpots.

Will be adding top dressings/benies/fungi to the netpots, and a very very small amount of alfalfa meal. Filling the netpots half way or fully with pumice works well too.
Click to expand...

very nice.. thanks for sharing!
 
I didn't feel like clogging that other thread anymore, so I'll bring it over here. Here is my last soil test and I used Basalt, GRD, and OSF, but I was low on Basalt and GRD. So, I might use them more generously next time. I ordered more GRD, but I think that it takes basalt too long to break down for the 1st run. I could be wrong, it happens a lot! I was really focused on getting the N-P-K last time, but I see that my micros were/are suffering. This test does not look that bad, but I just had one of the WORST harvests of my 8yrs...
DSC00997.JPG
 
MustangStudFarm said:
I didn't feel like clogging that other thread anymore, so I'll bring it over here. Here is my last soil test and I used Basalt, GRD, and OSF, but I was low on Basalt and GRD. So, I might use them more generously next time. I ordered more GRD, but I think that it takes basalt too long to break down for the 1st run. I could be wrong, it happens a lot! I was really focused on getting the N-P-K last time, but I see that my micros were/are suffering. This test does not look that bad, but I just had one of the WORST harvests of my 8yrs...
View attachment 4177993
Click to expand...

No worries amigo. We are all here for the learning ..
What kind of composts and castings did you use again?

If you're using floured basalt and upping your fungals, it should be no match for your system, and little time..

The S being 4x and Na being 5x what they could be optimally, might be killing you and causing lockups.

Manganese albeit a micro, affects photosynthesis, respiration, and nitrogen assimilation.

& Zinc, one of the essential micronutrients and an important part of several enzymes and proteins, is crucial to plant development, and plays a big part in a wide range of processes.
 
I ordered the stuff right after our last conversation, but I got the basalt and GRD from the same place on Amazon. I really didn't take the time to look at different options and the price was fair. Your saying that raising my fungals will break down the basalt faster?
https://www.amazon.com/NNatures-Foo...F8&qid=1533790786&sr=1-1&keywords=basalt+dust
71OFABbV6VL._SL1500_.jpg



I forgot that I also ordered more kelp. This is the same stuff that I have been using and I am open to changing brands or whatever. The local shop has a monopoly on the business, so they are expensive and shitty. I refuse to go there. They have to order everything that I ask for even though they have the word "Organic" in their title.
Also, kelp is the only thing that I could think of that would raise my Na so high. Does that sound right? I used a LOT of kelp and my micros were still low, confusing...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063YSYZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
51t3po8winL.jpg
 
MustangStudFarm said:
I ordered the stuff right after our last conversation, but I got the basalt and GRD from the same place on Amazon. I really didn't take the time to look at different options and the price was fair. Your saying that raising my fungals will break down the basalt faster?
https://www.amazon.com/NNatures-Foo...F8&qid=1533790786&sr=1-1&keywords=basalt+dust
71OFABbV6VL._SL1500_.jpg



I forgot that I also ordered more kelp. This is the same stuff that I have been using and I am open to changing brands or whatever. The local shop has a monopoly on the business, so they are expensive and shitty. I refuse to go there. They have to order everything that I ask for even though they are word "Organic" is in their title.
Also, kelp is the only thing that I could think of that would raise my Na so high. Does that sound right? I used a LOT of kelp and my micros were still low, confusing...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063YSYZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
51t3po8winL.jpg
Click to expand...


Yeah, some kelp can be as high as 8% Na, and for those taking score at home, there are 10,000 ppm per %, so that's a lot. Anyways, with any luck it should say on the label.

As for the basalt, yeah for sure, not only that but any rock and wood for that matter... but remember also, form is key to function, the organic dry hydroponic friendly flour form being fastest.

Our boulder of basalt on the other hand, little different story..
 
You asked me about my compost... I am not using any because all of my soil tests have came back with extreme excess in phosphorus. That is what led me to getting my soil tested. I was getting the Mehlich 3/Saturated paste test, but I can see why people claim that they are inaccurate. Anyways, this soil test is showing available nutrients and it accounts for nutrient lock-out. What I mean is that the Mehlich 3 test would always show my trace/micros being in the normal range even though the phosphorus on the test was through the roof. I couldn't tell that P was locking out the trace/micros, but it shows it on this test. (Rabbit manure compost aged 2yrs)
DSC00980.JPG
 
DonTesla said:
organic dry hydroponic friendly flour form being fastest.
Click to expand...
I tried to google this and I ended up with Zn sulfate, Mn sulfate, and Cu sulfate. I have all 3 on hand and I actually used some on the last batch of soil that I made about 5 weeks ago. I am now dealing with Ph issues as I expected, but this is the first time that I actually had a Ph meter... I know that I am high in Na and S, so I read that they can both be washed away by flushing. So, I have been trying to rinse the soil this time before have it tested. It don't look like much, but they are 8gal pots.
DSC01014.JPG

I was looking for a Ph meter that was analog and not made in China. So, I settled for made in Japan Kelway. It seems to be accurate... Anyways, I have been aging this soil for 5 weeks and just last week the Ph went from 6.5 to 5.5. I suspect that it is from all of the different sulfates. Maybe I could re-mix it with basalt and GRD, because I didn't use ANY on this batch. I only had OSF and Dolomite lime. I have been waiting for the Ph to level out before I send it for testing, something that I learned the hard way!
DSC01017.JPG
It was sitting at 6.5 @week 3 and I thought that I was on a roll. Then, week 5 rolled around and it is at 5.5. It's still in the yard, but I have everything on hold until I figure this out. I might even have to take clones again and start all over. I have my flower room shut down until further notice lol. I refuse to have another shitty harvest like my last one.
 
Man I need a
DonTesla said:
Hey all!
I'm back and avoided all problems! lol.. wish I filmed it all for ya. I don't even know where to start. Haha.

Thanks for carrying the dope dialogue along though..I enjoyed catching up here, digging the quality convo.

@firstnamelast


all good friend! .. a bit of a fungal / humus rich compost and Coco based mix with some fresh castings and aeration could be lime free. Just cancel peat by replacing it.

We cut lime out after first year of growing with no problem and much success, but yes I did use rock dusts as well as humus and egg shells. There is something to be said about that, especially of a nice cal mag in-tune recipe with a slew of bene rock minerals. But humus plays a big part, the eggshells did too I guess.

Now I'm testing some peat recipes so crab shell might have to re enter the life. Are you looking to avoid peat and limestone for whatever reason?

Here are some posts I've saved from my buddy Roy down in Mi whom I hope to visit this year.. you may enjoy them for a more rounded view on the organics..

As you will see, there are many ways to get from point A to point B
Click to expand...


This was the read of the day
 
MustangStudFarm said:
I tried to google this and I ended up with Zn sulfate, Mn sulfate, and Cu sulfate. I have all 3 on hand and I actually used some on the last batch of soil that I made about 5 weeks ago. I am now dealing with Ph issues as I expected, but this is the first time that I actually had a Ph meter... I know that I am high in Na and S, so I read that they can both be washed away by flushing. So, I have been trying to rinse the soil this time before have it tested. It don't look like much, but they are 8gal pots.
View attachment 4178120

I was looking for a Ph meter that was analog and not made in China. So, I settled for made in Japan Kelway. It seems to be accurate... Anyways, I have been aging this soil for 5 weeks and just last week the Ph went from 6.5 to 5.5. I suspect that it is from all of the different sulfates. Maybe I could re-mix it with basalt and GRD, because I didn't use ANY on this batch. I only had OSF and Dolomite lime. I have been waiting for the Ph to level out before I send it for testing, something that I learned the hard way!
View attachment 4178124
It was sitting at 6.5 @week 3 and I thought that I was on a roll. Then, week 5 rolled around and it is at 5.5. It's still in the yard, but I have everything on hold until I figure this out. I might even have to take clones again and start all over. I have my flower room shut down until further notice lol. I refuse to have another shitty harvest like my last one.
Click to expand...
Database error wont let me like, thanks for posting this.
 
I tried to use diatomite rocks as cover last grow on two plants and ran into problem's. The rock was from repotme which I washed prior to using. I had three "yogi" from seed by swami organic seeds pushed into flower pretty early when I added as cover. Within two weeks one plant almost died and other hermied. Third without diatomite was fine. Here's a pic when I added rock, three small plants:
IMG_2008.JPG

I am wondering if it was the fact that I added the rock at same time I flipped to flower or the young age when I tried to flower.

Current grow using same soil reamended:

IMG_2015.JPG
 
newgrow16 said:
I tried to use diatomite rocks as cover last grow on two plants and ran into problem's. The rock was from repotme which I washed prior to using. I had three "yogi" from seed by swami organic seeds pushed into flower pretty early when I added as cover. Within two weeks one plant almost died and other hermied. Third without diatomite was fine. Here's a pic when I added rock, three small plants:
View attachment 4180977

I am wondering if it was the fact that I added the rock at same time I flipped to flower or the young age when I tried to flower.

Current grow using same soil reamended:

View attachment 4180979
Click to expand...

Interesting.. I see the small ones are drooping already, I wonder why.

I would be tempted to question the seed stock before I question the DE Rock.. especially since you rinsed it and sped the veg up.. but kinda strange, you would think the beans would be good.

DE Rocks have never caused any harm in my garden, as topdressing or in the mix globally.. roots LOVE em!

You should try again if you can.. same strains, longer veg.. and just regulate that enviro..
 
MustangStudFarm said:
You asked me about my compost... I am not using any because all of my soil tests have came back with extreme excess in phosphorus. That is what led me to getting my soil tested. I was getting the Mehlich 3/Saturated paste test, but I can see why people claim that they are inaccurate. Anyways, this soil test is showing available nutrients and it accounts for nutrient lock-out. What I mean is that the Mehlich 3 test would always show my trace/micros being in the normal range even though the phosphorus on the test was through the roof. I couldn't tell that P was locking out the trace/micros, but it shows it on this test. (Rabbit manure compost aged 2yrs)
View attachment 4178114
Click to expand...

Sorry Stang, so is this soil with no compost at all, or is a test from aged rabbit manure..

You say you're not using any at all due to high P but then you said "(Rabbit manure compost aged 2yrs)" at the end, so I would just like to clarify first..

Rabbits, as full spectrum as their excrement is, can be quite potent compared to other types of manure.. plus the urine is a big factor.. adult rabbits for example need much less calcium and alfalfa than baby rabbits, and this can cause people to see swings if they don't adjust their diet accordingly ...
 
I stopped using compost at the moment. That soil test was from manure from a rabbit farm and not my personal rabbits. I like to think that I am giving my rabbits a better diet.

I have some shredded leaves/grass clippings started, but that is going to take quite a while to break down. I am using a LOT more leaves, less grass, and less rabbit bedding. I collected the leaves last Oct when they fell on my lawn. I let the grass get tall and I used a bagger.

Here is a 200gal freight sack that I filled with grass/leaves from last Oct. It looks like it is going to take forever to break down! I am considering borrowing a wood chipper from my dad and running it through again.
DSC01021.JPG

Here is my worm bin. I started with the same grass/leaf clippings but I added glacial rock dust, basalt, OSF, and barley. Then, I started to add grass clippings from this summer. I was hoping that it would help speed things up! I think that I chased a lot of the worms out with the heat, but they will be back. I doubt that they went very far. These worms showed up on their own. So, they are native to the area. It's hard to tell how big this is, but each pallet is 3'x3'.
DSC01022.JPG
 
I think the biggest thing is whether bedding and urine is incorporated or not.. and whether said bedding is urine-saturated or not.. huge factors!!!

then diet.. the more full spectrum the better of course (I like your style there, Stang), and again, lower calcium once adult being the biggies.

What about using your worms to speed that freight sack up?!

And for those who missed it in the other thread, great convo about aloe going on.. a summary:

The ten + main areas of chemical constituents of Aloe vera include:
  1. Amino Acids,
  2. Anthraquinones,
  3. Enzymes,
  4. Minerals,
  5. Vitamins,
  6. Lignins,
  7. Monosaccharide,
  8. Polysaccharides,
  9. Salicylic Acid,
  10. Saponins, And
  11. Sterols.

Amino acids found in Aloe vera include:
Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine,And Tryptophan.

Some Of The Other Non-Essential Amino Acids Found In Aloe Vera Include:
Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Histidine, Proline, Serine, Tyrosine, Glutamine, and Aspartic Acid.

Enzymes in Aloe include:
Amylase, Bradykinase, Catalase, Cellulas, Lipase, Oxidase, Alkaline Phosphatase, Proteolytias, Creatine Phosphokinase and Carboxypeptidase.

Aloe vera also contains these Vitamins:
B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, and B12

As well as these elements:
Choline, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese, Chromium, Selenium, Copper, Iron, Potassium, Phosphorus, And Sodium.

(IT'S *&%$ LOADED!....)
 
DonTesla said:
What about using your worms to speed that freight sack up?!
Click to expand...
I went to get some worms from my worm bin, but I think that I chased them off with the grass clippings. It is steaming hot. It's a learning process for me! Next fall, I am going to run the leaves through the shredder more than once! I just used a lawn mower to pick them up, but I am going to run them through the shredder also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top