Guzias1
Well-Known Member
tooo hot!
i feel you got perma goooo with this batch.. with moisture trapped inside, thus crackle..
the champagne effect sounds like you cooking it now..
BHO with Vacuum oil/wax tutorial
- Thread starter Guzias1
- Start date
i feel you got perma goooo with this batch.. with moisture trapped inside, thus crackle..
the champagne effect sounds like you cooking it now..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27208216@N06/11972426725
So the link above will take you to a video of my tiny bubble action.
So the link above will take you to a video of my tiny bubble action.
Guzias1
Well-Known Member
shiet. ok, it still baffles me how clear that oil is..
let it ride out just like that nutbag :]
lets see where it goes..
that bubble movement looks good though. consistent, not too violent..
Guzias1
Well-Known Member
sounds like a better direction to take it...
here is my wax patty left out in 90F for the day. almost fully waxed, also this is a little deceiving, i place this chunk back under vacuum, 70F, and it is still purging.. smalll little bubbles. hope this goes right
pk
as for the rbk. it was shatter at 70F, at 80F, it was malleable.. so i folded back into ball, melted down at 106F.. started some vacuum, and unfortunatelyyyyy. it looks to be fogging up/waxing.. i wanted it to be shatter!! probably folded one too many times.
rbk, (p.s. i dropped the shatter chunk in my sand!!! grrrr)
here is my wax patty left out in 90F for the day. almost fully waxed, also this is a little deceiving, i place this chunk back under vacuum, 70F, and it is still purging.. smalll little bubbles. hope this goes right
pk
as for the rbk. it was shatter at 70F, at 80F, it was malleable.. so i folded back into ball, melted down at 106F.. started some vacuum, and unfortunatelyyyyy. it looks to be fogging up/waxing.. i wanted it to be shatter!! probably folded one too many times.
rbk, (p.s. i dropped the shatter chunk in my sand!!! grrrr)
Yeah, I thought when I read the sand idea that Fade had a gr8 idea, but as you say, any mistake and you got a mess. I’d much rather use water than sand, as anything dropped into it has a better chance of being salvaged.
I have to believe the fact my source mat is 3 yrs old is having an effect, as yours comes together at such a much lower temp. You’ve taught me patience Guzias, and Fade hasn’t chimed in on any breakdown stuff to suggest it’s a factor (I’m sure it is, but not sure how.)
BTW, my yield on 90g of source mat has been a consistent 5g (twice), which is a very low ratio. I’m thinking that is the biggest result of using 3 yr-old stuff. I have some source mat that was harvested in early Nov., so only 3 months old, am going to be blasting that next. I’m certainly going to be interested to see if I notice reactions sooner.
FWIW, after I verified my stuff returned to shatter, I heated it up a little bit and folded it. I love that part of this, the folding is like pulling taffy. Anyway, fold, fold, fold and it still ended up getting totally clear. There is, IMO, something chemical in the waxing process, not strictly heat/vaq. I’ve no explanation other than it seems to me that you’re achieving wax far easier than I, and I believe you’re source mat is way better than mine…ergo, good source material will wax way easier.
BTW, how does one break up shatter to consume it?
Oh, and I am getting the same bubbling at 136F...so leaving it there.
I have to believe the fact my source mat is 3 yrs old is having an effect, as yours comes together at such a much lower temp. You’ve taught me patience Guzias, and Fade hasn’t chimed in on any breakdown stuff to suggest it’s a factor (I’m sure it is, but not sure how.)
BTW, my yield on 90g of source mat has been a consistent 5g (twice), which is a very low ratio. I’m thinking that is the biggest result of using 3 yr-old stuff. I have some source mat that was harvested in early Nov., so only 3 months old, am going to be blasting that next. I’m certainly going to be interested to see if I notice reactions sooner.
FWIW, after I verified my stuff returned to shatter, I heated it up a little bit and folded it. I love that part of this, the folding is like pulling taffy. Anyway, fold, fold, fold and it still ended up getting totally clear. There is, IMO, something chemical in the waxing process, not strictly heat/vaq. I’ve no explanation other than it seems to me that you’re achieving wax far easier than I, and I believe you’re source mat is way better than mine…ergo, good source material will wax way easier.
BTW, how does one break up shatter to consume it?
Oh, and I am getting the same bubbling at 136F...so leaving it there.
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
I just use my dabber to chip off a piece of the shatter, or break the shatter up inside the parchment, and then dab a piece.
d0rk2dafullest
Well-Known Member
hi this thread is a little too big to read thru it all i was wondering if anyone know wats a good size tube for 1 can of butane? and if i should just go one big ass tube? or should i do a lot of small runs? with a smaller tube? i have like 1lb of sugar trim and i dont really wanna waste. i was just wondering if someone can chime in on what size tubes is the most effiecient. and with the size, how much butane you are using. and if i should measure out how much i cram in there? or should i just stuff as much as i can in there. plz let me know. and plz quote me! thx for your time reading my post and answering in advance!!! thx!!! oh and if this question has already been answered please just kindly quote me a link if possible. thx you from one stoner to another!
blackforest
Well-Known Member
Just out of curiosity, what is your altitude and what pressure can you pull in your chamber? Here at 7200ft, max we can pull is -22.5~ -23hg.
Temperature is directly proportional to pressure, so even though I can pull a 'full vacuum' at -22.5 (boil water at room temp for example) it still is not as efficient of a vacuum at sea level or even for most of the geographic US. I was never able achieve these results at lower temps (lots of posted shatter pics to testify). My latest finished product is crispy and crumbly. I think I can purge even longer, and yes, perhaps on a lower temp. But at the same time it's apparent I need to raise the temps above the norm to achieve a more refined and purged product.
ps. the pump I use is a 3cfm single stage pump. Works great. I know a couple other ppl here that do the same. They are at -22.5hg as well. If anyone else in CO is getting a stronger vacuum I sure would like to know.
As part of my farm, I make maple syrup. So I understand the concept of turning a liquid into crystals (at least turning sugar from a liquid to crystals). Is the process of waxing similar? Can anyone point to some chemical/scientific explanation of that process? Sorry if I have missed a link already.
FWIW, I’m on day 2 of this new batch. Had it up as high as 158F, and it still returns to shatter at room temp. Trying prolonged vaq at 90F now (2 hours into this attempt.)
FWIW, I’m on day 2 of this new batch. Had it up as high as 158F, and it still returns to shatter at room temp. Trying prolonged vaq at 90F now (2 hours into this attempt.)
If you've had it up to 158 then it most likely won't wax up. Read through this whole thread from the start and you'll see how many times BHO makers state the temps to get oils to wax up. And at room temp after having your oil at 158 I would suggest it is just a semi firm goo but not shatter. Shatter at room temp will break into pieces. Some people say it bends then snaps but that to me isn't true shatter. That to me is barely shatter and on it's way to goo.
I've done a lot of runs of all kinds of different kinds of oils and have never had one wax up or shatter up after going that high of temp.
And your oil will keep bubbling forever cause you are just boiling thc...you have probably already heat and vac purged out the tane long ago. Once you go over a certain temp then the oil won't wax up. It will just keep boiling and boiling and boiling...
Well, despite your beliefs about my stuff, I returned it to shatter several times, including after being at 158F. To me, if it breaks (not bend, not crack, not snap, but breaks off) at room temp, and isn't sticky, then its shatter. I know of no other definition for it from what I've read. TBH, I just want it not to be sticky or transfer at room temp... Anyway, tomorrow I am blasting with fresher stuff, last year's harvest culled ~2 months ago. Older than it should be, I realize, but not nearly as old as the 3 yr-old stuff I have been trying to work with. I'm looking forward to applying my patience to it. FWIW, it was bottled after a 5 day hang and has been kept near 50F since it was sealed in mason jars. So this effort will be with far less than primo source mat, but at least not terribly old source mat. As always, fingers crossed.
You know, I realize after writing that that I cannot actually attest to it going to 158F. The temp between my BBQ probe under the silpat and my $40 IR thermo have varied as much as 10F, or as little as 2F. What I did do was very slowly increment the temp, trying for 2-5F increment every 30 minutes. That part worked...what the actual temp of the oil was could only be found by breaking the vaq, and I tried to do that as few times as possible. So just let me say that I very slowly increased the temp of the patty over a fairly long time, and when I did break vaq the patty re-achieved shatter at room temp. I also know it did not wax up. It could very well be that my 3-yr-old source mat had no chance to wax up, but since I had done 5 grams just a few days before that turned to goo, I know the 2nd attempt did not turn to goo. My take away at this point is that its easier to get shatter than wax, and even 3 yr-old (frozen) stuff can become shatter. Wax, otoh, needs something more than my source mat has. Hence my question as to the chemical explanation of how shatter turns to wax. All good and well to say its a few more degrees or a couple hours more under pressure, but there's a chemical process happening there and I would just like to understand what it is.
If the griddle is too hot and doesn't have low settings on it you can layer parchment paper on it to make a buffer to lower heat, or sand, or raise the vac chamber off the griddle a bit by putting spacers under it.
Some guys have commented they get wax up around 130F. Well I've had oil get perma goo at that temp and never went a degree over that. So since then I have never gone over 115F and have gotten every strain I've ran to wax up at that temp. A lot of them will wax up at only 100F-110F. As long as you are starting with good material.
And freeze the material as frozen as possible and freeze your butane as frozen as possible. And use lots of un bleached filters. Tiny, tiny weed dust particles getting through filters can also fuck up your waxing results.
I do large runs of wax and I change my filters after running every 4 cans of butane. For example if I run a half pound of material I blast 4 cans of tane with 8 filters, then chuck out those filters, put 8 new ones on, then run 4 more cans of tane. Keeps the oil very clean.
Some guys have commented they get wax up around 130F. Well I've had oil get perma goo at that temp and never went a degree over that. So since then I have never gone over 115F and have gotten every strain I've ran to wax up at that temp. A lot of them will wax up at only 100F-110F. As long as you are starting with good material.
And freeze the material as frozen as possible and freeze your butane as frozen as possible. And use lots of un bleached filters. Tiny, tiny weed dust particles getting through filters can also fuck up your waxing results.
I do large runs of wax and I change my filters after running every 4 cans of butane. For example if I run a half pound of material I blast 4 cans of tane with 8 filters, then chuck out those filters, put 8 new ones on, then run 4 more cans of tane. Keeps the oil very clean.
where can I get 'spacers' my griddle makes my pot where I purge way to hot!
You can use anything for spacers that won't burn on the griddle. Like small ramekins, small blocks of steel, anything to elevate the chamber slightly above the griddle so there is a buffer area below the chamber so it doesn't get too hot by sitting directly on the griddle.