Converting from promix to coco advice

Hank Mardukas

Well-Known Member
Lol I had the idea of using an aquarium sponge filter in an "organic" reservoir and I wanna try it my next grow. I'm gonna be using earth juice. Any idea if EJ is gonna sludge up those 1/4" lines?
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
These work too.
Lol I had the idea of using an aquarium sponge filter in an "organic" reservoir and I wanna try it my next grow. I'm gonna be using earth juice. Any idea if EJ is gonna sludge up those 1/4" lines?
No experience with EJ. If the res has sludge.....the lines will join the party. Otherwise you should be good.
 
@TintEastwood

That manifold is for air pumps correct?
I have a bunch of 6 way metal ones that I bought from the hydro store for my air pumps but haven’t been using, and I could definitely hook up to those.

I’m thinking a pvc bulkhead from the pump to a 3/4 t then run a length of pipe the entire 8ft length of the tent, and end cappin it. then I’ll grab some brass 3/8 fittings and connect them to each manifold. Does this sound like the easiest way to go about this? I’m shooting for 16-30 per 4x4 table and I got about 5-10 metal 6 way adjustable air manifolds on standby.

Also what’s the irrigation times you’re running? Like 1 min on every hour or? Rn I’m running Hydroton net cups on empty tables and flooding 21 times a day, and with promix I’d only water every other day or everyday in flowering so I bet coco has its own lil thing too and just wanna cut back on any losses ahead of time
 
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TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
Indeed the manifolds are made for air, but work fine with water.

PVC backbone could work well as you describe.

For me, I need each outlet adjustable. Trying to get the system to free flow properly, evenly, to each plant was a loser.

Coco feedings really depend on the grow style. Smaller pots, feed more often typically. More perlite, more often. 2 and 3 gallon fabrics are very common.

This is a good reference. (Great)

https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/principles-fertigation-feed-water-cannabis-coco/
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
@TintEastwood
Thanks man! You got those good links on lock! Only person I know who has links and timing as great as you is my girl who I swear has a stash of passive aggressive memes just for me, saved for when I piss her off lmao
She's got your number! ....and My Wife has mine. :bigjoint:


This one explains in a way my simple brain can understand. :dunce:bongsmilie coco ..cations, CEC, and naturally high Potassium. Steamy. lol
https://growguru.co.za/blogs/hydroponic/buffering-coco-coir
 

Skunk Baxter

Well-Known Member
Lots of great advice in this thread, but one thing nobody has mentioned is how to blend your coco. I've been growing in coco for years, and I have found that I get the best results with a blend of about 65% coco chunks and 35% coir. For me, that mix gives the perfect balance between hydration and aeration, drainage and retention. I absolutely swear by it. I top feed by hand, using 1-gallon square pots, and frequently get 2.5 pounds per light every 3 months since switching to that mix. I don't believe I've ever gotten less than 2. The root development is just phenomenal.

Edit: oh, and I also blend in about 3-4 ounces of worm castings per gallon. I believe there's a noticeable difference since I started using the worm castings. Canna A & B nutes, 1/4 to 1/2 strength, depending on how the ladies look each day, about 3 mg. calmag daily, and Pondzyme for my enzymes (roughly 2 days out of every 3.) Flush with straight water every 4th or 5th day.
 
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myke

Well-Known Member
Lots of great advice in this thread, but one thing nobody has mentioned is how to blend your coco. I've been growing in coco for years, and I have found that I get the best results with a blend of about 65% coco chunks and 35% coir. For me, that mix gives the perfect balance between hydration and aeration, drainage and retention. I absolutely swear by it. I top feed by hand, using 1-gallon square pots, and frequently get 2.5 pounds per light every 3 months since switching to that mix. The root development is just phenomenal.

Edit: oh, and I also blend in about 3-4 ounces of worm castings per gallon. I believe there's a noticeable difference since I started using the worm castings. Canna A & B nutes, 1/4 to 1/2 strength, depending on how the ladies look each day, about 3 mg. calmag daily, and Pondzyme for my enzymes (roughly 2 days out of every 3.) Flush with straight water every 4th or 5th day.
EWC in coco,thats a new one.could you expand on that?Flushing with straight water do you feed right after the flush?
 

Skunk Baxter

Well-Known Member
EWC in coco,thats a new one.could you expand on that?Flushing with straight water do you feed right after the flush?
I know there are others who do it, but not apparently not many. I'd never heard of it either before I gave it a go, but since then I've seen it mentioned on other forums (maybe here too; just can't recall for sure). See, I've always been a big believer in beneficial micro-organisms, I used to play with different tea formulas. I tried some tea recipes that were based on worm-poop soup, with bacterial products added, but I didn't like the results. I used blackstrap molasses as a nutrient to promote bacterial propagation, but my impression was that focusing on the bacteria discouraged the growth of the fungi, because they feed off of different nutrients. I was trying to kill two birds with one stone, but I don't think I was getting the full benefits of the fungi in the EWC.

So I decided to use the two types of bennies separately. I still brew up the EWC in a tea with molasses, in order to get the full benefit of the bacteria in worm castings, but I also add it to the growing medium so that it slowly releases both bacteria and fungi over a period of time. I also blend packets of Mykos into my coco mix before planting, to lay a solid foundation for strong mychorhizzhael growth. We make two different types of bacterial tea - one using primarily Oregonism, the other using Great White - and alternate them throughout the grow. The two products have different types of bacteria, so I try to get the maximum benefit of each. And, of course, I coat the rootballs with a mixture of Oregonism, Great White, and Mykos when transplanting.

To be honest, none of this was very scientific. It was based entirely on careful observation of my plants and how they react to each adjustment, and intuition to interpret what it was I was seeing. I did some side-by-side comparisons of some of the tweaks, but nothing extensive - it was just gut feelings from many years of growing. I absolutely love my plants, and sometimes spend more than an hour each day just sitting by the tent and carefully examining each plant, to the point where I recognize individual leaves and remember day to day what they look like. I can't prove much of what I just said scientifically - but 2.5 pounds is 2.5 pounds, and I've never in my life seen such incredible root systems. I don't know for sure if every single thing I am doing is having an effect, but overall, the program is working very well.

Oh, and no - on flush days, I almost always just leave them wet and unfed until the next day, unless I have reason to suspect some sort of deficiency. I may use enzymes on flush days, but generally, no nutes.
 

Skunk Baxter

Well-Known Member
I know nobody asked, and I don't like dick-measuring, but in case someone's rolling their eyes and saying, "Yeah, right," I have a couple of pics from a few years ago. I don't take many anymore, but I took a few of that grow. The bud in the first one is about 12-14 inches, and in the second one they are 15 and 18, respectively. These were about Week 6 or Week 7, and they really filled out a lot more as they grew up. I believe this was my first grow in coco (maybe the 2nd), and I get better results now.

Again, not bragging, but in case anyone is wondering whether the advice I posted is worth listening to, here are some of the results.

budporn2.jpg

budporn1.jpg
 

Hank Mardukas

Well-Known Member
Lots of great advice in this thread, but one thing nobody has mentioned is how to blend your coco. I've been growing in coco for years, and I have found that I get the best results with a blend of about 65% coco chunks and 35% coir. For me, that mix gives the perfect balance between hydration and aeration, drainage and retention. I absolutely swear by it. I top feed by hand, using 1-gallon square pots, and frequently get 2.5 pounds per light every 3 months since switching to that mix. I don't believe I've ever gotten less than 2. The root development is just phenomenal.

Edit: oh, and I also blend in about 3-4 ounces of worm castings per gallon. I believe there's a noticeable difference since I started using the worm castings. Canna A & B nutes, 1/4 to 1/2 strength, depending on how the ladies look each day, about 3 mg. calmag daily, and Pondzyme for my enzymes (roughly 2 days out of every 3.) Flush with straight water every 4th or 5th day.
I usually mix coir with perlite 75/25 or 50/50 I've noticed faster growth with the 50/50 mix but I'll I have to try mixing coir with chunks. I've also read elsewhere of other coco growers mixing in ewc but I've always shied away from trying it as I worry about getting bugs in my room. One of these days I'll grow some balls lol
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Hey what's up man? I'm a long time soil grower who just started working in a commercial coco facility. For me, the hardest thing to dial in was when exactly to water the coco. A lot of the growers in the facility that I work at told me that I should treat it like soil and let it dry out between waterings, but this was completely wrong. Coco coir holds 10 times it's weight in water so it will appear to be 'wet' for a long time if you look at it like you would soil. I highly recommend that you start with a TOP QUALITY coco product like Cannacoco or Char. Cheap coco products are inconsistent in quality and will lead to issues down the road.

Don't be afraid to flush your coco regularly, it holds a lot of air and is very difficult to over-water. I'm having great results watering/flushing every 2 days in our facility, some bigger plants are almost to the point now where they need water daily.
I recommend you do a trial in your facility running daily and multiple feeds per day on some of your plants.
You could potentially increase the output of your facility and then demand a pay rise!
Run a lower EC with that too.
 

Skunk Baxter

Well-Known Member
I usually mix coir with perlite 75/25 or 50/50 I've noticed faster growth with the 50/50 mix but I'll I have to try mixing coir with chunks. I've also read elsewhere of other coco growers mixing in ewc but I've always shied away from trying it as I worry about getting bugs in my room. One of these days I'll grow some balls lol
One thing I do that might help is to tear open the bag of worm castings several weeks in advance, crumble up a mosquito dunk, and stir it into the bag. I've never had a problem with fungus gnats, or at least never from worm castings. I still get them every damned time i break open a new block of coco, though.
 

2com

Well-Known Member
I just switched my 1/4 feed lines to true 3/8 ID lines,flow is huge.About time hydro shops start stocking this stuff.All plumbed fittings so no more leaks!
Couldn't agree more. I'm currently figuring out an irrigation manifold. Don't wanna mess with 1/4".
Could you share any pictures of your setup please? Have a journal, link?
 

myke

Well-Known Member
No none of the above. I’m also in RDWC so my lines just go from my res to my buckets. Manifold is in the res.
 
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