THIS. I just wanted you to know this is the post right here that launched a thousand chips! ...ok, 100, but I couldn't pass up the Hellenic pun, lolRight so those examples are sized based on how the COBs would fit with each driver. So you could select any one of those examples and scale it up by doubling, tripling etc, until you reach your desired PPFD. I run at 750-900 PPFD lately and have been very happy with that. So I would recommend something in the 600-1000 average PPFD range. The lower the PPFD the more efficient photosynthesis is but the less efficient use of space, so it is a trade off based on your preference.
For example, if you selected the 56% efficient option and you wanted to cover a 4'X6 canopy, you could install 4 of those units and you would get 824 PPFD average. It would dissipate 784W and cost $1244 in parts (plus a lot of misc costs like thermal paste, wiring, connectors etc)
hi guys, I'm from Spain and is the first time I write in the forum. I'm really impressed with the quality of the content of RIU, and especially this post Supra, the best I've found for my DIY Led Cob.Here are some units you could scale up to fit your space. To some extent, you can adjust the coverage by adjusting the distance to canopy.
@43.3%
(4)Vero 29 3500K @ 1.4A (51W ea) $112
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
202 dissipation W -> 114.5W heat ->
active cooled heatsink 4590 cm² -> 3.5"X36" $45 + 80mm fan+psu $10
(4) lenses $16
87.4 PAR W covering about 5ft² = 783 PPFD
$248 = $2.84/PAR W
@45.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 2.5A (91.65W ea) $95
(2) HLN-80H-36A $90
183 dissipation W -> 99.37W heat
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
83.63 PAR W covering 5 ft² = 749 PPFD
$219 = 2.62/PAR W
@49.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 72V @ 1.05A (75.5W ea) $95
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 (running at ~1050mA) $65
151 dissipation W -> 76W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 9120cm² -> (2) 10"X10" heatsink $75
or
active cooled heatsink 3040 cm² min -> 3.5" X 30" heatsink (for spread) $40 + 80mm fan+psu $10
or
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
75 PAR W covering 4ft² = 840 PPFD
75 PAR W covering 5ft² = 672 PPFD
$243 = $3.24/PAR W passive cooled
$218 = $2.91/PAR W active cooled on bar heatsink
$194 = $2.59/PAR W active cooled on CPU coolers (uniform spread, best value?)
@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled
@61.2%
(5) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.05A (35.5W ea) $237.50
(1) HLG-185H-C1050 $65
177.5 dissipation W -> 68.9W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 8268cm² -> 4.9"X36" $70
or
active cooled heatsink 2756cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(5) lenses $20
108.63 PAR W covering 6ft² =
$392.50 = $3.61/PAR W passive cooled
$377.50 = $3.48/PAR W active cooled
@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)
or
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 1.8"X44" heatsink $34 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(8 ) lenses $32
117.8 PAR W covering 6ft² = 879 PPFD
117.8 PAR w covering 7ft² = 754 PPFD
$545 = $4.63/PAR W passive cooled (great option if your area is high electrical cost, Hawaii, NYC, SoCal etc or if your grow is already heat limited and you want to increase yield without running more AC, ducting and fans)
$532 = $4.52/PAR W active cooled 3.5"
$521 = $4.43/PAR W active cooled 1.8"
So in summary, the higher the efficiency goes, the more appealing passive cooling is. Less wires, less moving parts, less points of failure for about the same cost.
So if I'm reading this correctly, if I'm running the CXB3590 chips at 50W to get the 56% efficiency, you strongly recommend using lenses.If you are running them at 50W ea I highly recommend a lens. If yo are running at 23W each it is a toss up between lens, reflector or bare if they are in the center canopy.
If you use a variety of spectra they will mix to some extent. I see nothing wrong with that plan, maybe even beneficial. As always I believe efficiency trumps spectrum in this case but as long as you are getting the top bin for each tint I'd say go for it. (3000K CB, 3500K CD, 4000K CD)
yeah so do you think a lens is better than a reflector. i guess with a reflector you don't obstruct your light in any way... just trying to see the pros and cons of both.. and i'm probably just going to run them at 23W each...but ya know how plans changeIf you are running them at 50W ea I highly recommend a lens. If yo are running at 23W each it is a toss up between lens, reflector or bare if they are in the center canopy.
If you use a variety of spectra they will mix to some extent. I see nothing wrong with that plan, maybe even beneficial. As always I believe efficiency trumps spectrum in this case but as long as you are getting the top bin for each tint I'd say go for it. (3000K CB, 3500K CD, 4000K CD)
Thanks for the answer, the HLG-185H-C1400b should not give 1400mA? Why not come to 1200mA? For HLG-185H-C1400B is ok the 143V? or that´s why is better HLG-185H-C1050A?Hello, thank you for the compliments. Your plan makes good sense. I cannot guarantee you will get the full 1.2A, that will depend on the driver and the COBs which will vary slightly. Recently I tested a batch of these
2X CXA3590 72V on HLG-185H-C1050A. The drivers put out 1.13A at maximum (90W/COB in this case). It may slightly reduce driver efficiency using them this way, but you may get more current than the HLG-185H-C1400, hard to say without testing. I will have an HLG-185H-C1400 to test soon.
Not sure if it will fit Jerrys lenses but these should work.Hiya. I'm going to run CXB 3590 3000k @50w each on arctic 64 plus cpu coolers. Mounted with Ideal holders/connectors. Do any of you guys know if there's room to fit a lens with those coolers? It's the ones with a flat base...
The best advice I could give would be to try bare, lenses and reflectors and see what gives you the best uniformity and intensity. Realstyles reported a nice boost at 12" distance with 25W COBs by using lenses, inside a tent and I believe he runs his canopy at about 12". I have a lamp that runs the COBs at 80W ea and the distance to get an even spread is about 18"So if I'm reading this correctly, if I'm running the CXB3590 chips at 50W to get the 56% efficiency, you strongly recommend using lenses.
I'm planning about a three foot distance between trellis and COB. That means a minimum bud to cob distance of about one foot, as some buds could stick out that far. Generally the canopy is about 15" off the trellis.
The light array will be 6' tall x 12' long. Is using a lens better than no lens and if so, which one would you recommend?
I would like to know the answer to this question also. Spectrum King's Cree TEMPO test measured the lens loss to be 6%. If that is true for our lenses as well I suspect lenses will outperform reflectors. On the other hand I have quite a lot of COBs and I like using free DIY reflectors that can be cut to a custom shape, short, tall, oval or both tall and short on one reflector.yeah so do you think a lens is better than a reflector. i guess with a reflector you don't obstruct your light in any way... just trying to see the pros and cons of both.. and i'm probably just going to run them at 23W each...but ya know how plans change
The HLG-185H-C1400 may be able to go up to 144V and still put out max current, but if the COBs voltage is higher than that the driver will reduce the current as necessary to limit the circuit to 143-144V. As the COBs warms up Vf falls and the driver will increase the output. At 1050mA Tj 60C the CXB3590 is about 72Vf but it will vary from COB to COB. So in practice we wont know how much current it can put out until we test it and it will be different for everyone.Thanks for the answer, the HLG-185H-C1400b should not give 1400mA? Why not come to 1200mA? For HLG-185H-C1400B is ok the 143V? or that´s why is better HLG-185H-C1050A?
I'm already talking to Jerry and everything goes great, giving me incredible prices as well as facilitating a change of amount on the invoice to save taxes. he said me DHL, but ChinaPost is safer and cheaper, right?
Now I start to look like building a dimming, I hope it's not too difficult. Thank you Greetings
I'll be running CXB3590 chips at 50W, about 18-21" from the canopy tops and 36" from the trellis, or the back of the plant, so that's my canopy depth.The best advice I could give would be to try bare, lenses and reflectors and see what gives you the best uniformity and intensity. Realstyles reported a nice boost at 12" distance with 25W COBs by using lenses, inside a tent and I believe he runs his canopy at about 12". I have a lamp that runs the COBs at 80W ea and the distance to get an even spread is about 18"
I have been using both lenses and reflectors on the COBs that are bordering a walkways and running them bare when they are in the center of the canopy. I have been using both PAR meter and eyeballing to try and get the canopy covered as evenly as possible and trying to reduce waste and wall reflection.
then HLG-120H-C1050 would be the most efficient option above HLG-185H-C1050. so can use almost 100x100 driver and can modify it 7.5W to 75W ???? Thank you very much for answering my (stupid) questions as quickly and didactic way !!!!!!!The HLG-185H-C1400 may be able to go up to 144V and still put out max current, but if the COBs voltage is higher than that the driver will reduce the current as necessary to limit the circuit to 143-144V. As the COBs warms up Vf falls and the driver will increase the output. At 1050mA Tj 60C the CXB3590 is about 72Vf but it will vary from COB to COB. So in practice we wont know how much current it can put out until we test it and it will be different for everyone.
Now that I have seen enough HLG-185H-C1050A that put out 1130-1150 mA I would recommend that over the HLG-185H-C1400 for those who are looking for the highest output. But I would recommend the 1400 for those looking for the highest driver efficiency.
If the driver HLG-185H-C1050C puts 1150 +- are you sure fits well with 5 CXB3590 36v cause its seems to be 207w or so... If that works seems like awesome combo efficiency/Cost.The HLG-185H-C1400 may be able to go up to 144V and still put out max current, but if the COBs voltage is higher than that the driver will reduce the current as necessary to limit the circuit to 143-144V. As the COBs warms up Vf falls and the driver will increase the output. At 1050mA Tj 60C the CXB3590 is about 72Vf but it will vary from COB to COB. So in practice we wont know how much current it can put out until we test it and it will be different for everyone.
Now that I have seen enough HLG-185H-C1050A that put out 1130-1150 mA I would recommend that over the HLG-185H-C1400 for those who are looking for the highest output. But I would recommend the 1400 for those looking for the highest driver efficiency.
HLG-240H-C2100B could be a good option for 3 x 36v toothen HLG-120H-C1050 would be the most efficient option above HLG-185H-C1050. so can use almost 100x100 driver and can modify it 7.5W to 75W ???? Thank you very much for answering my (stupid) questions as quickly and didactic way !!!!!!!