CXB3590 1500W
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
if you want to supplement a 4K COB use some mono 660nm ... ie deep reds. more efficient and more photons and only needs a little bit to supplement.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
It's the broad peak over all the red that interests me, not just the 660nm. If you overlay the spectral chart of the 2 cobs, you will see that relative intensity is 20% at 730nm with the 97 cri. It also looks like it widens the blue spectrum some.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I like what you did. It's not a bad concept.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
I like your light, and I know mine wouldnt look any better than yours. As long as it is safe, thats all that matters....for a minute I felt bad when I realized this is Supra's thread and we're going off on tangents... but since its Supra's "fault" that half of us are building COB lights, I think he can sit back and have a beer while we chat it up in his living room... lol
(@SupraSPL )
carefull when comparing the spds put out by cree they are % and not absolute #s. if you want a bigger and wider peak over the 600-700 nm range then use a 3K cob and supplement with royal blues to keep the red\blue in balance.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
It is much easier to add COBs than playing with a crap load of single diodes. And yes I understand that the overall output is different between the 2 COBs. The 80 cri @ 3000k is still no match to the 97 cri 3000k when it comes to 660 nm and above. That is why I would use the 4000k for the blues and the 3000K 97 cri to enhance the red spectrum. The 97 cri's could then be turned on and off as needed (during veg).
no its not, a 70 or 80 cri 3k cob will output more total light in that deep red range than the décor series.
anybody have a link to the absolute spds handy ?
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
I don't know how to post the graph, but if you look up the datasheet on the 97 cri 3000k (30H) and compare the red peak against the 25E (very similar to the 4000k), you can see the broad red spectrum you can create.
REALSTYLES
Well-Known Member
I have a panel I'm testing right now, flowering 4 plants in a 2x4 tent and they are on day
bassman999
Well-Known Member
I am interested in the results.
I am using LED panels now in veg that are prefab, having supposedly around 12 spectrums.
I just wonder if thats really better than 1 or 2 spectrums with high intensity.
They look so unnatural with all that pink and purple light.
One of them is a no name 300W worth od LEDs (draws about 178W), and a Platinumled 300W that draws almost exactly the same.
The light they produce looks totally different.
I plan to sell them, to build my own panel(s).
I could always run HPS with or without the addition of mh during flowering while I build.
I have Lumatek dial a watt 600 ballasts that I have been using for a few yrs that I will probably sell as well and all my hoods.
I might sell my Ebb-N-Gro also as a matter of fact.
Out with the old and in with the new!
I dont want to do that, partly because I rent and led lights are easier to take down fast.
Tim Fox
Well-Known Member
I wonder how many Beer Credits Supra would have by now if there was a button to click on this page,, " Beer for Supra"...for a minute I felt bad when I realized this is Supra's thread and we're going off on tangents... but since its Supra's "fault" that half of us are building COB lights, I think he can sit back and have a beer while we chat it up in his living room... lol
(@SupraSPL )
vahpor
Well-Known Member
Hey, great read here! Thanks for all the testing and feedback and deets.
I was all ready to scale up my chinese chip DIY LEDs and ready to go the Vero 29 route due to the bang/buck buy-in cost, until I fell into this thread and was made aware of efficiency.
I was all set to build a 2 chip setup for my 2ft x 2ft x 3ft tent. But I'm liking the efficiency of the 4x CXB3590 + MW HLG-185H-1400B combo, and running it at a lower wattage...even possibly passive?
I was just planning to run 4x Arctic hs/fans, but, if I can avoid that and run a large passive design, that I could add a 120mm fan or two for higher power as needed.
What HS size could you suggest for this sort of setup and size constraint. Should I stick to 2 chips on individual 60w or 80w drivers for this space? A passive design could also keep the profile much smaller, and allow for more vertical space as needed with my 3' limitation.
Ready to get some parts ordered from KB asap, likely going with the 3000k chips that are in stock. Do they also carry the wire connectors, or do I have to source those elsewhere?
I was all ready to scale up my chinese chip DIY LEDs and ready to go the Vero 29 route due to the bang/buck buy-in cost, until I fell into this thread and was made aware of efficiency.
I was all set to build a 2 chip setup for my 2ft x 2ft x 3ft tent. But I'm liking the efficiency of the 4x CXB3590 + MW HLG-185H-1400B combo, and running it at a lower wattage...even possibly passive?
I was just planning to run 4x Arctic hs/fans, but, if I can avoid that and run a large passive design, that I could add a 120mm fan or two for higher power as needed.
What HS size could you suggest for this sort of setup and size constraint. Should I stick to 2 chips on individual 60w or 80w drivers for this space? A passive design could also keep the profile much smaller, and allow for more vertical space as needed with my 3' limitation.
Ready to get some parts ordered from KB asap, likely going with the 3000k chips that are in stock. Do they also carry the wire connectors, or do I have to source those elsewhere?
Last edited:
bassman999
Well-Known Member
This is a copy/paste from another thread o hereHey, great read here! Thanks for all the testing and feedback and deets.
I was all ready to scale up my chinese chip DIY LEDs and ready to go the Vero 29 route, until I fell into this thread.
I was all set to build a 2 chip setup for my 2ft x 2ft x 3ft tent. But I'm liking the bang/buck/efficiency of the 4x CXB3590 + MW HLG-185H-1400B combo, and running it at a lower wattage...even possibly passive?
I was just planning to run 4x Arctic hs/fans, but, if I can avoid that and run a large passive design, that I could add a 120mm fan or two for higher power as needed.
What HS size could you suggest for this sort of setup and size constraint. Should I stick to 2 chips on individual 60w or 80w drivers for this space? A passive design could also keep the profile much smaller, and allow for more vertical space as needed with my 3' limitation.
Ready to get some parts ordered from KB asap, likely going with the 3000k chips that are in stock. Do they also carry the wire connectors, or do I have to source those elsewhere?
@45.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 2.5A (91.65W ea) $95
(2) HLN-80H-36A $90
183 dissipation W -> 99.37W heat
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
83.63 PAR W covering 5 ft² = 749 PPFD
$219 = 2.62/PAR W
@49.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 72V @ 1.05A (75.5W ea) $95
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 (running at ~1050mA) $65
151 dissipation W -> 76W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 9120cm² -> (2) 10"X10" heatsink $75
or
active cooled heatsink 3040 cm² min -> 3.5" X 30" heatsink (for spread) $40 + 80mm fan+psu $10
or
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
75 PAR W covering 4ft² = 840 PPFD
75 PAR W covering 5ft² = 672 PPFD
$243 = $3.24/PAR W passive cooled
$218 = $2.91/PAR W active cooled on bar heatsink
$194 = $2.59/PAR W active cooled on CPU coolers (uniform spread, best value?)
@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled
@61.2%
(5) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.05A (35.5W ea) $237.50
(1) HLG-185H-C1050 $65
177.5 dissipation W -> 68.9W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 8268cm² -> 4.9"X36" $70
or
active cooled heatsink 2756cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(5) lenses $20
108.63 PAR W covering 6ft² =
$392.50 = $3.61/PAR W passive cooled
$377.50 = $3.48/PAR W active cooled
@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)
or
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 1.8"X44" heatsink $34 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(8 ) lenses $32
117.8 PAR W covering 6ft² = 879 PPFD
117.8 PAR w covering 7ft² = 754 PPFD
$545 = $4.63/PAR W passive cooled (great option if your area is high electrical cost, Hawaii, NYC, SoCal etc or if your grow is already heat limited and you want to increase yield without running more AC, ducting and fans)
$532 = $4.52/PAR W active cooled 3.5"
$521 = $4.43/PAR W active cooled 1.8"
Hey guys...
Finally got my last batch of components... Will begin the build in the next couple days, but as I was doing a configuration inspection( mental dry-run) I ran into a question...
Turns out I got 5 fans with 4 pin connections and I got a multi site splitter with 3 pin connections... Returning it would be a hassle.
Will it work as is or should I get an adapter for each fan, bridging the 4 pin fans to the 3 pin splitter?
Outside of that derp moment... Everything else is on track!
Thanks guys!
Finally got my last batch of components... Will begin the build in the next couple days, but as I was doing a configuration inspection( mental dry-run) I ran into a question...
Turns out I got 5 fans with 4 pin connections and I got a multi site splitter with 3 pin connections... Returning it would be a hassle.
Will it work as is or should I get an adapter for each fan, bridging the 4 pin fans to the 3 pin splitter?
Outside of that derp moment... Everything else is on track!
Thanks guys!
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Just 2 wires are required to drive it full speed, usually yellow(+) and black(-)
Other 2 wires are to drive it with PWM for speed control
If you already knew this, and you were wanting to know how to use pwm, then someone else can tell you that lol.
Right on man... Was afraid of damaging them, but when I read this, decided to give it a shot... Works like a charm!
So far I think this fan set up is tits... 12v/5v switching adapter( off amazon) >> phobya 4pin molex to 6 site 3 pin splitter>>5 arctic 11's.
Gonna leave'em running for a while and let you guys know how they perform later.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Glad it worked out for ya