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Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Heatsinks are a cost that's hard to get past, I been thinking of these from heatsink online.com $10 each for 2" thick, $5 an inch. For my 12 cxb3590. I wanna run em no higher than 50 watts each. I'll add the plugs myself with scrap stock
 

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J

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Put together some more strips last night. I have 5 of these 4' bars now each have 6, h Influx 3000k 80 CRI, 88 diode lm301b. And I made one that's 2' long with 3 strips, I will be making one more 2' bar and that will be all 36 of my strips. So 3168 diodes powered by 2 lrs 350-24. The heatsink is 1.5" aluminum angle bar .125" thick 8' long cut in half then bolted together to make like a T. 3 strips fit very nicely this way.
 

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Jonesfamily7715

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Now I need to figure out how to cool my cobs affordably, Ive been contemplating liquid cooling it'll be cheaper in the long run, for me cuz I have some of the required parts already. 12 cxb3590, 3 Vero 29 se, and a couple cmu 2287. I'd like to use 2 4' long aluminum square tubes with 6, 3590's on each.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Jonesfamily7715 said:
Now I need to figure out how to cool my cobs affordably, Ive been contemplating liquid cooling it'll be cheaper in the long run, for me cuz I have some of the required parts already. 12 cxb3590, 3 Vero 29 se, and a couple cmu 2287. I'd like to use 2 4' long aluminum square tubes with 6, 3590's on each.
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What wattage are you thinking about? Can you drill and tap or only drill and screws and nuts?

If you can tap then theres a nice way to do it with alu square profile if you can find it wide enough and at least 3mm thick: open a hole in the profile for a fan and push air thru the profile for air cooling. Not sure where it would stand as to how many watts per cob though.
 
J

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
What wattage are you thinking about? Can you drill and tap or only drill and screws and nuts?

If you can tap then theres a nice way to do it with alu square profile if you can find it wide enough and at least 3mm thick: open a hole in the profile for a fan and push air thru the profile for air cooling. Not sure where it would stand as to how many watts per cob though.
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On the 3590's I'm gonna run that Lrs 600 so no more than 50 watts per cob, definitely no more than that. I have drills, taps, and scrap aluminum like crazy.i have seen something like that before I bet that would work especially if I could put one of these aluminum angle bars thru the middle of the square tubing for more surface area for the airflow.
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
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Here is an edge cooled water block plate idea I came up with. Should work for COBS, and probably overkill for 15w SILs. Basically, you just cut a flat bar thats1.5, 2" wide, etc) up into as many little sections as you need, and then weld aluminum or copper pipe to the sides of the plates, using alumaweld brazing rods + torch, unless you have an aluminum welder/spool gun.. You could make them smaller individual single water blocks too, so you can save even more on cost, by connecting them with soft tubing. Or, make the longer ladder rails, which have better heat transfer coming from both sides, and also becomes more rigid and act as a solid frame for mounting like bars.
 
J

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Drop That Sound said:
View attachment 5399242
This kind of rectangular aluminum tubing would make the best liquid cooled bar light water blocks, IMO.

Cap the ends off, and then drill and tap your holes for plumbing fittings to screw into, one on each end.
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I was thinking of square or rectangular aluminum bar like this I have some 2' long 1" square tubes already made up with barbed ends. Not quite big enough. I'm probably gonna break down and by an 8' long bar and chop it in half so I'll have 2, 4' long bars.

I also have a couple of them Amazon water blocks for cooling a pc 40mm x 40mm I seen a YouTube video of someone cooling eBay cobs with em. Those cobs fucking suck even liquid cooled. But anyways not a bad idea for cooling, except you gotta figure a way to hold on to each one. A long tube will be much easier and neater. Maybe I could break out my diy smelting furnace and make a mold with copper tubing thru the inards
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
All the peeps ive seen doing water cooled leds here ended up feeling that it was overkill or just that it wasnt fully worth the effort and risk (water flowing on top of your leds). Chilled started out that way then abandoned for their second gen boards.
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Might as well plumb the LRS-600 psu while your at it! ;)

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The Advantages of Water-Cooled Power Supply - All About MEAN WELL Power Supplies

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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Drop That Sound said:
View attachment 5399373 View attachment 5399374
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Watercooling drivers is a really good idea. They heat the space much more than one would think and wit water cooling it should be fairly possible to keep them under ambient temps. Also much more feasible to have all drivers in the same place for setting up multiple drivers on the same water circuit, then just send thru to our vegg space for heating. Bookmarked here to come back later :)
 
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