Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
Greetings Heisenberg !
Now with the liberal application of the tea my plants look healthy again, my interest in growing has renewed energy and commitment.
I too am using Dutch Master Gold Nutes (A&B + Add27). I am at week 3 in a flower cycle. 600w HPS. You previously mentioned that you use the Liquid Light product; What are your thoughts on adding LL at this point ?
257BudHunter
PS: THANKS AGAIN !
Very glad to hear the tea helped you. I too was glad to get back to productive gardening after so many set backs; makes you feel like a failure even when you've been following all the directions correctly. The rule with liquid light is to stop using it after the buds form, which is at about 3-4 weeks, unless you have excellent air flow. If you are confident that you will not get bud rot you can keep spraying them up until about 3 weeks before harvest. Note that just having good exhaust is not enough, you have to have really good air flow above, below and among the plants. After crystals form it's important to raise or turn off the main light until the plants dry.
Greetings Heisenberg!
First off I would like to thank you for being the one to share these amazing pieces of knowledge with me, it has helped immensely!
I know you said you currently have limited internet access, but whenever you get the time I have a few more tea questions:
1) I just received some Mycogrow to try for the first time instead of the Zho/Aquashield. What sort of application rate do you use with the Mycogrow for a 2 gallon brew?
2) Is it possible to use too much tea? I have been using 2-3 times the normal 1 cup/gal to try and fight off bad disease. Want to make sure this isnt actually hurting the situation. ..
3) Do you have any suggestions for using the tea in an ebb and flow system? I know you said to make sure there is an air stone in the main res. Would you suggest a different application rate or schedule?
4) And finally a question about how you know when the tea is done brewing. It seems that the speed of brewing varies greatly with the amount of air pumped through the brew and the temperature of the brew. Which leads me to question when is it at its prime condition? The smell seems to progress from sweet molasses, to dull and almost no smell, to kind of an earthy smell, and then kind of swampy. The appearance progresses from clear with a molasses color tint, to a cloudy mustard color, and after that it looks like some of the cultured coating of stuff that has formed on the sides of the bucket starts to come off in small chunks and float around in the water, then it starts turning browner from the mustard color. So any suggestions or experiences on the best time to use it?
Thanks for all your help!
Nmed
If you have a scoop from the ZHO, I use about 2-3 from the small side, so not very much at all. Too much tea will never burn the plants, but too much fungi can cause a slimy coating. I have never had this happen so I am not sure how harmful that particular slime is, but i've read it is not much of a problem. Rather than increasing the amount any more, try playing around with the application rate. Perhaps you need a little every day, or perhaps you are overdoing it and holding off a bit might help. If you are in ebb and flow and have root problems then I wonder if you have other issues besides slime spores. The amount used in an ebb and flow is the same, 1 cup per gallon to fight disease, 2-3 cups per 10gal to prevent disease. Top off sensibly. My tea looks slightly different each time it's done. The only indications I use any more to tell me it's done is the clock. In general, I like to get it after it's had the earthy smell for a while and just before it get's a little swampy. But I have learned, swampy is okay, thick bio-film is okay, even an air stone covered in snot is okay, as long as you make and apply the tea as directed. If you kept the DO levels high the entire brew then you should never have anerobic microbes thriving, which are the ones that tend to cause problems. Brewing it longer or shorter just messes with the diversity, as does the amount and type of food.
Hi Heisenberg,
I don't mean to put a burden on you with more questions, but I don't recall you discussing this in the past. I'm about to switch to flower, and I'm looking for a little advice on nute usage. I'm planning on using AN Connoisseur A&B nutes for flower, but I'd also like to use Botanicare Sweet (Raw) if possible. I hear it helps with the transition to flower, reduces stretching during early flowering, and also helps provide flavor and scent enhancement for the buds. I'm also going to be supplementing with Snow Storm Ultra.
I believe my slime has subsided for now. I do still have the dark brown residue or dead slime or whatever it is in the roots that aren't newly grown. I have tried to stay current on keeping the EWC tea topped-up as needed. Last update you told me to hold off on the Sweet for now. It wasn't really necessary during veg anyway, but flowering is just around the corner. My questions are:
- If I add the Sweet during the transition/flowering phase, will the slime explode back into the rez from its dark brown residue/dead slime?
- With the tea in use, if I add Sweet directly to the rez like my other nutes, will it promote excessive microbe growth? Or will it foster in the return of the slime? I know it has been discussed not to try and breed the tea directly in the rez. But the tea will already have been bred seperately, and added into this 'Sweet'ened rez.
- If I use the Sweet as the sugar base for the tea instead of molasses, will the Sweet still be useful to the plant when I add it in as part of the tea? Or will the microbes/bennies eat all the sugar before it gets in the rez?
- Finally, would you recommend I use the Snow Storm as a foliar, or as a nute supplement in the rez? Is doing both overkill?
Let me know when you can. I understand you don't have the best net connection right now. I think I speak for everyone here when I tell you how much I appreciate your time and patience in sharing your wealth of knowledge. Perhaps one day I can buy you a beer? lol
Mr. Bond
I wouldn't worry about the brown splotches being a source of more slime troubles, however depending on the tenaciousness of your infection adding sweet may be a concern. My mentor did just what you are pondering; he added any bud sweeteners or carbo load directly to the tea. If the product is already in a form available to the roots, then the microbes shouldn't touch it. If not, then the microbes will haply process it for you. I suspect though that things will be okay if you want to add it directly to the res provided you haven't seen the slime, the plants are healthy, and the root system is robust. Again, a res that isn't currently infected with the slime is likely to be much more forgiving. Of course I am a skeptic of sweeteners in general. I believe sugars are better supplied through foliar spraying, and that taste is best left up to good genetics. The creator of snow storm states that it is most effective as a spray. If you want to also use it in the res add no more than 2ml per gallon after you see crystal production begin.