Thanks!I’m liking it
My extraction fan shifts 284 m3/hrHow fast does your exhaust fan run?
All valid, except do you really want to shut off the exhaust? QB's will give you fatter buds if that is what you are hunting. invest in that instead of co2My extraction fan shifts 284 m3/hr
My tent is 1.2m x 1.2m x 2m = 2.88m3
So extraction is 284/2.88 = 98.6 times / hour or once every 1m 38 seconds, although I imagine in reality some of the air stays in there a lot longer, depending on air flow and vortex inside the tent. So doing anything to the air inside the tent - as you say - is pretty pointless!
My only option with this setup is to really add the CO2 to outside the tent and have it drawn in.
I suspect a better option is to decrease the heat with a couple of big QB leds (although the heat would probably be beneficial then if i was using LED) and stop the exhaust running all the time.
A job for future grows methinks!
About the best time to get benefit from added CO2 for us casual home growers is during the stretch. The plants are eating more than at any other time and the potential for big gains is then.I read somewhere that CO2 does allow you to run things at a higher temperature with less risk of hermes / stress for the plant, do you know the optimum for flowering with 1500ppm CO2?
As long as the plants are exposed to extra CO2 most of the time they definitely grow faster so if it's not costing much it's worth doing especially during the stretch. I grow in a very cool basement and in the winter with only a couple 400s going the fan may not kick in all day. It's on a temp/rh and speed controller so if neither the temp or rh get high enough the fan is off and the plants would use up all the CO2 in no time with no fresh air coming in.So IMHO, it's snake oil unless you invest in the complete package. The little "co2 boosters" add co2. So would vinegar dripping into baking soda... but neither will make a difference if you have an exhaust fan properly doing it's job.
Wow, just wow, you have so many bulb and light options!put my best Hortilux 1000W on them and they got plenty of light.
I recon that in winter using a lamp is an option for me, it's hot in the summer here, but cold in the winter, we cannot store items that will freeze in the garage normally, so extra heat and CO2 would be a benefit as the exhausts wont be running all the time. Gives me time to get setup too. I've got 850W of lights in my 1.2m square x 2m tent, currently a 600 and 250 HPS, is that going to be sufficient to make a difference?As long as the plants are exposed to extra CO2 most of the time they definitely grow faster so if it's not costing much it's worth doing especially during the stretch. I grow in a very cool basement and in the winter with only a couple 400s going the fan may not kick in all day. It's on a temp/rh and speed controller so if neither the temp or rh get high enough the fan is off and the plants would use up all the CO2 in no time with no fresh air coming in.
Not wanting to hijack the thread, but looking at the flowers above, I think you would impress yourself with QB's. The short of it is that the light penetration is phenomenal, and it doesn't create much heat. I'd be interested in seeing a side-by-side grow of a plant with and without co2. I mean, "my plants got older and the buds got fatter" is pretty much how the plants work... Did the co2 actually do anything?Yeah the fan was my concern as well for adding co2. They have a demonstration on YouTube for "the enhancer" and I assure you it gets well over 400ppm. But anyways, the owner chatted me up explaining how and when to use it. Aopaothe best thing to do for this product is to give it a shale once every morning and just shut off fans for 2-3 hours. Then turn it back on. The plants will make most use of the co2 when they "wake up" apparently. Don't know for sure if he's truely king bs lol or if he was being legit. I just know it seems to work here. Yeah I've heard about the vinegar drop system for co2. Lol I'd hate that smell though.
Am I thinking that to emulate my 850W I'd need around 600W of QB? How does it work? Literally just buy the boards fit and fit them with an appropriate driver for the number of boards you have?Not wanting to hijack the thread, but looking at the flowers above, I think you would impress yourself with QB's. The short of it is that the light penetration is phenomenal, and it doesn't create much heat.
If you go by what their "veg/flower footprint" chart says, it is pretty spot on. What it says it will comfortably flower - it will. I wouldn't stress as much over the wattage as what they recommend for your size space. I have been getting close to a gram/watt even on plants that had issues.Am I thinking that to emulate my 850W I'd need around 600W of QB?
Don't suppose you know where their chart is I had a quick search around but couldn't find it.If you go by what their "veg/flower footprint" chart says, it is pretty spot on. What it says it will comfortably flower - it will. I wouldn't stress as much over the wattage as what they recommend for your size space. I have been getting close to a gram/watt even on plants that had issues.
Not all MH lights are created equal and they are best for veg. I can get a standard MH bulb like the ones used for stadium lighting for around $35 and plants will grow under them but not so great. An MH bulb made for growing plants has a better spectrum with more light frequencies that plants need to grow better. It's the mixture of gasses in the arc tube that determine what light is emitted. Same with HPS lights. Cheap street light bulbs can flower plants but not so well as one designed to supply the proper frequencies for plants.From what I read MH is best for veg as it produces bushier stockier plants, or does this just depend on the spectrum that you buy?
I have the same kind of grow space issues tho it never can freeze in the basement as all the plumbing for our water is down there. It can get close to freezing tho when it's -35C outside for a while. We average around -20 for the whole winter. People keep harping on me to go spend lots of money getting LED lights to save energy but then my heater would be running with the lights on to keep the space warm enough so where's the savings?I recon that in winter using a lamp is an option for me, it's hot in the summer here, but cold in the winter, we cannot store items that will freeze in the garage normally, so extra heat and CO2 would be a benefit as the exhausts wont be running all the time. Gives me time to get setup too. I've got 850W of lights in my 1.2m square x 2m tent, currently a 600 and 250 HPS, is that going to be sufficient to make a difference?
You've been doing this a while eh? Some great knowledge here!Not all MH lights are created equal and they are best for veg. I can get a standard MH bulb like the ones used for stadium lighting for around $35 and plants will grow under them but not so great. An MH bulb made for growing plants has a better spectrum with more light frequencies that plants need to grow better. It's the mixture of gasses in the arc tube that determine what light is emitted. Same with HPS lights. Cheap street light bulbs can flower plants but not so well as one designed to supply the proper frequencies for plants.
A quick calculation - for me LEDs would actually pay for themselves after 3-4 grows in spring / summer / autumn. Assuming I spend about 500 notes on getting them setup. It's food for thought. When I have the cash, I'll probably look into getting some.They make fat buds without a lot of $$ for electricity
Not just LED (Blurple) but Quantum Boards. And all I am talking about for a basement grow is that since the hot air created by the lights is not agitated by fans on the lights, you get to do what you want with that heat. So for a basement/cooler environment outside the tent, you get to use a lower fan-speed on the exhaust because you need to remove less heat. This ain't rocket-thermo-dynamics, this is redneck stuffI have 16" and 12" oscillating fans going in my room so the temp is the same from the floor to the ceiling and should be like that in any grow space.
All the different advice I keep getting relates to that person's grow space which is not the same as my space so there is no one-size-fits-all solution to keeping the right environment in there. Most people have to deal with temps and RH being too high where my situation is the complete reverse. I've never needed AC as my basement never gets over 65F so there is a constant supply of cool, filtered air. The grow room only takes up about a 5th of the space in the basement and all my intake air is drawn from the larger area of the basement. Then I'm not getting hot air in the summer and icy cold air in the winter.
LEDs may be in my future but for now I'm quite happy with my HIDs.
This makes total sense in the summer months. Winter, need to add heat in there and lots of it!And all I am talking about for a basement grow is that since the hot air created by the lights is not agitated by fans on the lights, you get to do what you want with that heat. So for a basement/cooler environment outside the tent, you get to use a lower fan-speed on the exhaust because you need to remove less heat. This ain't rocket-thermo-dynamics, this is redneck stuff