olafthegreen
Well-Known Member
Even if flowering period is identical (although I've read you generally save a few days), they veg faster and they produce more buds per grow.
First indoor grow - delicious seeds selection
- Thread starter olafthegreen
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H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
Sorry if I confused you - I responded to a different person on a different page - to you
I deleted it so if you didn't see it never-mind.You would have to do a side by side to prove that to me. For the most part, every grow medium is just a conveyance for whatever you are feeding them.
The only exception is soil which can actually contain all you need for feeding them for the first month or so. Water in hydro, coco, perlite, etc are all neutral (food-wise) until you add something.
I think first and foremost is the lighting. More light=more growth=fatter buds. The most light you can get until you get problems. Also the right light. I find the QB's to fill that part the best (for me)
You can control most of the bud growth by pruning.
Want bigger buds, more buds, etc? Look into all the different training and pruning techniques and any LST or HST you haven't tried yet. Manifolds produce fat buds. You can also just prune everything under the tops at flip (lollipop), or wait until about week 3 of flower and then prune all stuff that hasn't made it to the light. On some of the smaller tops that were just above the cut, I will prune lower nodes from them and leave just the tops. It will still stretch more and fill in. Also - leave the leaves I think first and foremost is the lighting. More light=more growth=fatter buds. The most light you can get until you get problems. Also the right light. I find the QB's to fill that part the best (for me)
You can control most of the bud growth by pruning.
if you aren't keeping a shoot, wait for it to get big enough to snip it, but leave the fan leaf.It is also the genetics of the plant, what you feed them etc.
olafthegreen
Well-Known Member
haha no worries at all.Sorry if I confused you - I responded to a different person on a different page - to you
You would have to do a side by side to prove that to me. For the most part, every grow medium is just a conveyance for whatever you are feeding them.
The only exception is soil which can actually contain all you need for feeding them for the first month or so. Water in hydro, coco, perlite, etc are all neutral (food-wise) until you add something.Want bigger buds, more buds, etc? Look into all the different training and pruning techniques and any LST or HST you haven't tried yet. Manifolds produce fat buds. You can also just prune everything under the tops at flip (lollipop), or wait until about week 3 of flower and then prune all stuff that hasn't made it to the light. On some of the smaller tops that were just above the cut, I will prune lower nodes from them and leave just the tops. It will still stretch more and fill in. Also - leave the leaves
I think first and foremost is the lighting. More light=more growth=fatter buds. The most light you can get until you get problems. Also the right light. I find the QB's to fill that part the best (for me)
You can control most of the bud growth by pruning.
It is also the genetics of the plant, what you feed them etc.
Yeah I have no 1st hand proof, only from what I've read. I did see a very interesting comparative DWC & coco in the same tent from someone on here.
DWC won hands down. Obviously it wasn't a properly controlled test, but very interesting to see. I can't see it with a quick search. Will try to find it later for you.
Yeah very keen to try manifolding, though it looks quite brutal in the first instance!
H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
I love manifolds, and yes - it looks traumatic at first, until you remember that you are just topping it. But after getting comfortable with it, I don't think I'll grow another seed-plant without it. Even if you just let it bush out afterwards. Breaking that apical dominance (big center cola, everything else smaller) early in the grow, instead of later topping individual stems, makes a big difference.
I think the biggest mistake I see people make is not waiting until it has 6 or 7 nodes to prune it back. It really needs that root structure to support the major trauma you are putting it through. It helps them bounce back and thrive quicker.
H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
I no longer SCROG. I hate the plants being tied down and tangled. with a manifold you can control the height of everything by training, and it is mostly uniform anyway. It looks like a scrog without a net if you leave a lot of shoots on it. I'll also untie everything and reposition it several times during flower to get everything just right.
olafthegreen
Well-Known Member
Day 59 and it’s been crazy hot here at 37°C for the past few days, had to have the light at 250W or they were toast, even so things are crispy, lots of the leaves are really suffering.
Was cooler last night at last so I turned it up to 400W and temps were good.
There’s been more foxtailing going on but I’m really not sure what I can do about that short of getting an ac unit.
Things are ripening slowly. Started flush of the critical jack and reduced nutes on the others, seems the critical kali mist prefers not to have the PK too so they are just getting nutes but weaker too ready to start the flush in a week or so.
Thanks for your thoughts guys.
Was cooler last night at last so I turned it up to 400W and temps were good.
There’s been more foxtailing going on but I’m really not sure what I can do about that short of getting an ac unit.
Things are ripening slowly. Started flush of the critical jack and reduced nutes on the others, seems the critical kali mist prefers not to have the PK too so they are just getting nutes but weaker too ready to start the flush in a week or so.
Thanks for your thoughts guys.
olafthegreen
Well-Known Member
Think Im going to have to try. I've got a sativa dominant plant outside which is going to be really tall at this rate, it's got 6-7 nodes now.
Is it worth giving it a crack on that? Does it work work well with both indica & sativa?
H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
Hide and watch - they look fine. That's good foxtailing. Wait for that stuff to plump up and you'll be amazed.
And yes, manifold works well with both. With a sativa it will get to the pot-edge quicker when you are training them, but you don't really do anything different. I saw one guy who actually bent those first two limbs all the way down to soil level while they were still tender, from a 6" stem. They stretched north from there, but it gained a week or so of veg before letting them grow 'up'.
olafthegreen
Well-Known Member
I'll get a photo, draw on it and send it over to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I attack it. if that's cool with you amigo?
Thanks for the reassurance for foxtailing. I've never had buds this big before outside - or even really bothered doing anything other than putting seeds in the ground. So you can imagine how I'm working this stuff out as I go along. With the help of kind people like yourself of course.
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H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
Yup!
And don't worry so much about counting nodes. Here's the trick.
The cotyledon don't put out sprouts.
The 3-toed leaves that come next do, and they suck. Always larf.
The second set of sprouts is hit-or miss, but usually stay skinny.
THAT is why the "3rd node" thing. 3rd or 4th is fine. What you want is to have a pair of healthy, uniform looking shoots. Not one big and one little coming from the same node.
And don't worry so much about counting nodes. Here's the trick.
The cotyledon don't put out sprouts.
The 3-toed leaves that come next do, and they suck. Always larf.
The second set of sprouts is hit-or miss, but usually stay skinny.
THAT is why the "3rd node" thing. 3rd or 4th is fine. What you want is to have a pair of healthy, uniform looking shoots. Not one big and one little coming from the same node.
H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
The other thing you can do is the 4-pronged thing (initially) by topping it again after the first set of nodes on each limb you keep. You end up with 2 on each side, which you can turn into 8 or more if you like, but the goal is to get those roots established. It will also slow down the growth a little more at first for a sativa.
You can flip right after you get the 4 limbs set and get 4 respectable buds, but building up the roots and fattening the stems while they recover from each topping is the ticket. That is what generated the bulk growth.
You can flip right after you get the 4 limbs set and get 4 respectable buds, but building up the roots and fattening the stems while they recover from each topping is the ticket. That is what generated the bulk growth.
H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
If you want to post a blank one (from the side where you can see all the stems and shoots) I'll draw on it and we can see if we had the same idea.
olafthegreen
Well-Known Member
Here we go, hope it's clear enough to see...
I'm not going to be able to edit mine till later, if you have the time and inclination to draw on it, I can just follow your instructions
Thanks again
H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
Don't top it that high, but leave about an inch - don't prune it close or its easier for it to split when you train it.Here we go, hope it's clear enough to see...
I'm not going to be able to edit mine till later, if you have the time and inclination to draw on it, I can just follow your instructions
Thanks again
View attachment 4358369
H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
@olafthegreen Also, if you don't have grafting wax to cover the spot you top, you could even put a plat tie around that upper stem real tight to accomplish the same thing.
olafthegreen
Well-Known Member
Man that looks so brutal, it's going to take some courage!
H.A.F.
Well-Known Member
If you're set up for it, the top would make a Hell of a clone.Man that looks so brutal, it's going to take some courage!
olafthegreen
Well-Known Member
Never done a clone before what do I need other than some kind of humidity container, rockwoll and rooting hormone? Can probably grab all that stuff here.
I was wondering do you use nugbuckets or nebula's method? or your own entirely?