WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
How were they grown, in a rail, tub? veg time/size at flowering?2.5 oz is a limit for sure. Man, my last harvest in aero was 15 oz with only 4 plants plus a shitty runt.
How were they grown, in a rail, tub? veg time/size at flowering?2.5 oz is a limit for sure. Man, my last harvest in aero was 15 oz with only 4 plants plus a shitty runt.
They are actually seedlings although there are 2 clones in the photos. The seedlings are 3 weeks old. I have 4 clones that aren't in the photos.how old are the clones
This was in a tub setup. Veg was like 60 days I think. I veg throughout the entire flowering of a batch. When one batch finishes the next batch goes in. I'm just saying that with one good harvest you will be over your 2.5 oz limit.How were they grown, in a rail, tub? veg time/size at flowering?
There comes the loose definition in the state laws about it, granted I'm not overly worried. With 5 patients and myself it allows me a max of 12.5oz, more reasonable but still stupid.This was in a tub setup. Veg was like 60 days I think. I veg throughout the entire flowering of a batch. When one batch finishes the next batch goes in. I'm just saying that with one good harvest you will be over your 2.5 oz limit.
Stink,Oregon Special Update
The party continues! I have the new system designed and built. I have set up with some scraggly clones just to test it out. I'm going to let the clones get pretty big before I flower the system. I think I'm going to veg them under fluorescent for 3-4 weeks.
These strains are kind of interesting. We had been running this Kandy Kush plant for a couple of cycles and then all of a sudden one of the plants produces a few male flowers down at the bottom of the plant. What's weird is the plant had never turned hermi before. There weren't many flowers and I caught it early but it still produced a few seeds. We picked out pretty much all we found and kept them aside.
Some of the seeds are a back cross with the Kandy Kush. Basically it's like if you were to fuck yourself and then get pregnant. The offspring is always female too. This is kind of how they get feminized seeds. This is also a good example of why some breeders like DJ Short swear by good old fashioned male/female seeds. Less hermies...
So anyway I also have the Kandy Kush crossed with the Blue Cheese. Basically the plant is a mix of Blueberry, UK Cheese, OG Kush and Trainwreck, four legendary strains. Oh yea, I also have a Critical Kush crossed with the KK. I have a bunch of new seeds popped too so it will be an interesting Summer.
We have a male Tahoe OG Kush jizzing all over a piece of glass right now. We are going to use the pollen to breed some more StinkBud. How good is the Tahoe OG going to be mixed with the Kosher Kush I have starting right now. Or the Blue Cheese! Of course the seeds won't be feminized but then I shouldn't have to worry about hermies, just males. I can work around that if needed.
Anyway here are some photos of the new babies in the new cloner. I'm stoked with the cooler and no leaks. I can take the lid off as many times as I want and there is no issue with the seal. I'm drawing up the plans right now. You can also see the latest rack in progress. It has about 6 weeks to go but everything is already looking frosty as hell! I also have the new Oregon Special done. I'm building a second unit to double check my plans and then I'll draw those up too. I'll be posting the plans here so stay tuned. I also posted a photo of a junior Kandy Kush back-cross bud that's looking real frosty. It smells amazing!!! Enjoy...
I think I still have the HT's issue.classic thread! i remember reading this in high times years ago. still would love to build one but am too lazy....
Howdy Rootney!Stink,
First, I would like to thank you for making all of this information available. It is very informative for newb's like myself.
I'm considering building a rail system but I have a few questions.
1) How large of plants have you grown in a rail system with the 5" rails? I plan to build a rail system but I want to limit the number of plants and grow them large, low and wide. I'm considering spacing the rails out a bit and only having one or two large plants per rail.
2) If I did try to grow large plants in this system, would the rails or the 2" net pots be a limiting factor?
3) In the third picture I noticed that you have changed the ends of your rail system and installed the sprayer feed tubes through the sides of the rails. What is the reason for the change and how do you remove them to clean?
Thanks for the reply StinkBud. I was actually thinking about the sprayer rods being a push fit but I thought the water pressure would blow them apart. I don't have experience with these systems but I guess they must not have much hydraulic pressure if the fittings stay together without glue. Another way to address that would be making the spray rods touch the outer wall of the fence posts. Since the posts are held in place the water could not push the fittings apart. Cool, I have a plan.Howdy Rootney!
1) The Oregon Special is a 4-plant system, 2-plants per rail. The plants are staggered in the rails so each side has room to grow across and under the light. The plants are grown large by vegging them an extra 2-3 weeks. My new system is 50"X30" so it's a little bit wider than the StinkBud Jr. and quite a bit bigger than the original SB. I'll be moving my new Oregon Special system into my tent this Saturday. I'll be posting pictures so you can see how big the plants get in veg.
2) Aeroponic plants don't have the huge root balls that DWC and soil produce. The plants are able to absorb all the nutrients and O2 they need with just a small root ball. So 2" net pots work but it's pushing it! By the time I harvest the big plants, the stem can take up the entire hole so the neoprene collar ends up looking a little traumatized. My buddy has been using the 3" netpots with Hydroton pellets. He swears by them but they seem like more of a hassle than they're worth. They don't increase harvest or quality so what's the point.
3) If you notice the reservoir sets completely under the rails now. This reduces the amount of floor space the system takes allowing people more flexibility in placement. Basically it fits in a closet better. So I had to change the design so that the sprayer assembly doesn't stick out the front 2 feet. The sprayer rods are not glued to the last elbows. The end lids are just taped on so all you have to do is reach in and grab the pipe on one side the elbow on the other and pull them apart. The res can still be detached and removed by taking apart the quick release.
It's hard to see in the photos the way the water drain is cut now. I cut it back 3" and bend the plastic down so there is a fairly large flap. The water goes almost all the way to the flap so the system is a lot quieter.
You can extend the outer support pipes up to 7 feet for a nifty light support system. The Oregon Special is designed to be a self contained unit able to fit in a small walk-in closet without any special needs. I want to set up an experimental unit using 3 fluorescent light fixtures. I'm thinking 40,000 lumens for a total of 120,000 lumens! That's almost as much as a 1000W HPS and more than a 1000W MH. You could run one light on top and two on the sides so it would end up a light box. Even the sides of the plants would receive light. No more lolli-popping or popcorn buds. The heat would be drastically reduced. You would still need A/C in the summer but that's normal. It wouldn't have to work as hard that's for sure.
LEDs would also be a good choice if you could buy enough of them. So stay tuned. You never know what you might see next.
Good luck bro!
I already looked into making my own LED light fixtures. I wanted to create a virtual wall of light surrounding the plants. Maybe even a curved dome. I started pricing LEDs, drivers, lenses, etc... and soon found out you can buy them a lot cheaper and they're already put together. They are really coming down in price and the technology is getting better everyday. Mark my words, someday everyone will be growing with LEDs.Thanks for the reply StinkBud. I was actually thinking about the sprayer rods being a push fit but I thought the water pressure would blow them apart. I don't have experience with these systems but I guess they must not have much hydraulic pressure if the fittings stay together without glue. Another way to address that would be making the spray rods touch the outer wall of the fence posts. Since the posts are held in place the water could not push the fittings apart. Cool, I have a plan.
I think I'm going to build my own LED lights for flowering using some of the info from the this forum. Still trying to decide if I want to go LED or Fluorescent for Veg. Let me know how the 3 fluorescent system works. Sounds like a good experiment. How about LED up top and fluorescent on side?
Thanks Bro! This is a really good tip. I know what you're talking about here. I bought an inverter for my motor home so I could run normal appliances off the batteries. I had an old cheap Wally special that I tried but it had a fucked up square-wave and caused all kinds of funky stuff with the LCD TV. Laptops and other electronic devices don't like that shit either. So I had to go out and buy an expensive inverter that put out a nice clean sine-wave.Hi everyone, this is my first post but I've been doing a lot of reading for about a year now. I bought StinkBud’s book, build his system and a few weeks ago started my first grow from 3 feminized medical seeds (Canatonics, high on CBD).
I would like to comment on UPS running timers and pumps. Majority of UPS units output square wave not sinus wave. Do not be fooled with “modified sinus wave” in the spec sheets. Modified sinus wave is a square wave!! Creative advertising... My 1-4 minute timer http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-CAP-Preset-Cycle-Timer-(1-On--4-Off)-NFT-1E refused to work with that kind of UPS. It turned the pumps on and never turned them off. You can get a sinus wave UPS but they cost much more. So unplug your power and test your system before going for vacation.
I build by own simple timer with 555 circuit and set it to 1 min ON, 5 min OFF and it loves the square wave...
Thanks Boosted. First, I saved my plants (I had only 3 small ones from seeds). Then I lowered the tote and placed it on the concrete floor. I gained a couple of degrees but still the nuts were 75. Then I built a water chiller using a Peltier module. It worked but not enough. The nuts still 73 degrees. I was throwing in frozen nuts (ice cubes), then frozen water bottles... and while fooling around I was hit with a second root rot. I was really pissed off and built a serious water cooler. Now I can freeze the roots if I want to. I keep the temp of nuts 66 degrees. I saved the girls again and they are doing great. Tomorrow is time to change the nuts and I will add H2O2 just to be on safe side.Worst comes to worst for you, get some plain water bottles and freeze 4 or 5 of them at a time and change them out every 3-4 hours. I have to do that with our cloner every damn time still. My Res however stays 70-71, and room temp is never over 75, but I don't have co2 yet either. My res sits with towels around it to make sure nothing splashes on the floor, but nothing special beyond that to keep it managed.
The timer makes life so much easier with managing any sort of res heat issues.
I keep my room at 78 degrees. I've tried temps all the way to 90 though. The water gets way too warm and the plants run like a fucking fat boy after a pork chop. Lower temps (60-70) slow the plant growth. 77.8675309 is actually the perfect temp and if you don't believe me google 8675309...Thanks Boosted. First, I saved my plants (I had only 3 small ones from seeds). Then I lowered the tote and placed it on the concrete floor. I gained a couple of degrees but still the nuts were 75. Then I built a water chiller using a Peltier module. It worked but not enough. The nuts still 73 degrees. I was throwing in frozen nuts (ice cubes), then frozen water bottles... and while fooling around I was hit with a second root rot. I was really pissed off and built a serious water cooler. Now I can freeze the roots if I want to. I keep the temp of nuts 66 degrees. I saved the girls again and they are doing great. Tomorrow is time to change the nuts and I will add H2O2 just to be on safe side.
How long H2O2 stays active in nuts?
I will post a few pictures later this week about my setup and my girls.