paradox3693
Member
do you advise me to stop feeding and just add water whenever the medium is dry ?
help, advice, anything that would be useful I would be grateful
- Thread starter paradox3693
- Start date
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Not sure of the diodes. Need about 40w more. 80w would be better if using the same lights, as Id sat a 160w Samsung LED would outperform your current set up, with the same watts.
I dont know your sq/ft?????
NEVER let the medium go totally dry.
I use both a moisture meter, a cheap one from Lowes/Walmart, Mositer-PH-Light Meter, and have also been growing long enough to know by the weight, but I still use both methods, and I never let the needle get to the Moist line. Always only LOW MOIST, then I water.
If you let the medium get to dry, you will concentrate the dissolved solids, and when they get rehydrated, can potentially burn the plant. If you also feed at this time you can suffer a double whammy. Never let your plants get really dry. Leaves can also fall off.
I dont know your sq/ft?????
NEVER let the medium go totally dry.
I use both a moisture meter, a cheap one from Lowes/Walmart, Mositer-PH-Light Meter, and have also been growing long enough to know by the weight, but I still use both methods, and I never let the needle get to the Moist line. Always only LOW MOIST, then I water.
If you let the medium get to dry, you will concentrate the dissolved solids, and when they get rehydrated, can potentially burn the plant. If you also feed at this time you can suffer a double whammy. Never let your plants get really dry. Leaves can also fall off.
Last edited:
paradox3693
Member
sq/ft you mean the whole space that I'm growing in or the pot ?
about the medium, I'm feeding it nutrients, should I stop till it gets bigger, or keep on feeding it whenever the medium is moist
paradox3693
Member
and for the lights, the total of my light is 120watts, and i might be able to get total of 10lamps led 40watts per 1 lamp, that's a total of 400watts in total, should be enough?, or should i try and search for a grow light
((
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Total grow area, not just the pot size.
Id keep feeding it small amounts often.
Look for another light.
Whats grow area?? Sq/Ft?
Id keep feeding it small amounts often.
Look for another light.
Whats grow area?? Sq/Ft?
Soul Dwella
Well-Known Member
The good ole cat-o-don leaves... yup...lmao
paradox3693
Member
2.42188 sq/ft
paradox3693
Member
what if it turned to a little bit of grey
paradox3693
Member
it looks like that rn
Attachments
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
QB288 V2 R SPEC QUANTUM BOARDS
QB 288 V2 Rspec are made USA by Horticulture Lighting Group. Each board has 272 highest flux and lowest voltage bin Full Spectrum LM301H LED. 16 Deep Red 660nm Deep Red LED enhance spectrum and unbeatable performance.
No Thermal Interface Material or paste is required.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECTRUM
Datasheet of Samsung LM301H Datasheet used in R spec Quantum Board ®
QB 288 V2 Rspec are made USA by Horticulture Lighting Group. Each board has 272 highest flux and lowest voltage bin Full Spectrum LM301H LED. 16 Deep Red 660nm Deep Red LED enhance spectrum and unbeatable performance.
No Thermal Interface Material or paste is required.
SPECIFICATIONS
- 272pcs Samsung LM301H Bin Diodes, 16 Osram SSL Deep Red
- Connectors rated 300V 9A
- Dimensions 6.833" x 11.25
- Max current per board 3000mA @ 54VDC
- Weight 0.5 lbs
SPECTRUM
- 3500k Samsung LM301H Bin Diodes, 16x 660nm Deep Red
- CCT 3150-3250
- CRI (Ra) 90
Datasheet of Samsung LM301H Datasheet used in R spec Quantum Board ®
paradox3693
Member
i can't get that in my country
Bukvičák
Well-Known Member
I would say that your medium is an issue. Is it “soil” or coco or mix of both? I see no perlite and big pots which leads me to say they are drown, roots without oxygen and plant is dying. Start a new one and decide if it is gonna be in potting mix or coco, you gonna have easier life when you know the right treatment. Good luck!
MickFoster
Well-Known Member
^^^^^^
Serpentz
Well-Known Member
If you feed seedlings at this stage, you risk burning them. First three weeks they don't need any food. Just water...
Sun at noon is about 110k lumens per sq meter.
If you have 12k lumens covering a m2 then you need a lot more but if the space is say 1/10 of a m2 then you have enough.
The color of light matters but you can grow and flower a plant with either color, it won't be optimal of course but your plant will grow under 120w if they aren't too far away.
When they are this small you can keep them further away as they can't take up much light and are most vulnerable.
Optimal distance idk with these lights. You can figure it out later when you have some true leaves, you can bring them closer and closer until the leaves start pointing up, then you are approaching the too close zone. Definitely take off the light diffusers.
50+g from these 120w, i think it is possible and i wouldn't bet against it. However you would probably have to restrict light print so that you have good lumens/area, vegetate them long enough, get some reflective walls, do training and not mess up anything major.
I don't know how much of a cap having a single color light puts on the yield.
The size of your pots matter as well as the vegetative time.
Also 24/0 is better than 18/6, especially if you want to keep plants shorter and don't mind the electricity draw.
I think that with these lights you will have to do lst to get 50gs and you might want to start early like 3rd node before the stem starts to harden up much.
Potsize and your growroom measurements are required to advise you on particulars.
If you have 12k lumens covering a m2 then you need a lot more but if the space is say 1/10 of a m2 then you have enough.
The color of light matters but you can grow and flower a plant with either color, it won't be optimal of course but your plant will grow under 120w if they aren't too far away.
When they are this small you can keep them further away as they can't take up much light and are most vulnerable.
Optimal distance idk with these lights. You can figure it out later when you have some true leaves, you can bring them closer and closer until the leaves start pointing up, then you are approaching the too close zone. Definitely take off the light diffusers.
50+g from these 120w, i think it is possible and i wouldn't bet against it. However you would probably have to restrict light print so that you have good lumens/area, vegetate them long enough, get some reflective walls, do training and not mess up anything major.
I don't know how much of a cap having a single color light puts on the yield.
The size of your pots matter as well as the vegetative time.
Also 24/0 is better than 18/6, especially if you want to keep plants shorter and don't mind the electricity draw.
I think that with these lights you will have to do lst to get 50gs and you might want to start early like 3rd node before the stem starts to harden up much.
Potsize and your growroom measurements are required to advise you on particulars.
Last edited:
paradox3693
Member
so as far as i'm concerned now, is there anyway to save my plant ?
I don't know. It looks like mold to me and i think cutting off the affected parts is what i would do if i didn't get any better advice. I would do it before it spread to the trueleafs..
Is your growroom very humid? You have to be careful not to overwater at this stage and if you have these small seedlings in a big pot, stuffed in a closet with no ventilation and the soil is soaked... i would expect mold.
paradox3693
Member
it's not that humid and my temp is on 21 steady, there's no filtration or anything inside the closet, and i don't overwater, i only rewater it after the medium gets a lil bit moist/dry
paradox3693
Member
i cut the parts as you told me and this how it looked like
Attachments
Well it looks like mold and when watering you have to think about the size of the root and how there is no point in watering the whole pot of soil because that water is just going to sit there, not being used by the plant, evaporating very slowly and low temperature doesn't help that.
Last edited: