Help! Small brown spots only in the stem during drying (Rot?)

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
And when you find these little spots of rot, what do you do? I'm confused about what to do about the curing...I'm afraid that the whole curing process will lead to me developing mold that hadn't developed in the suspect tops. Basically...in your opinion is it better to dry them out properly by going below 54% in the jar? skipping all the rehydration and polymerization process
Mold doesn't seem to grow fast at 55%(or lower.) I can't think of a time I've seen it spread once by bud is dried-maybe someone else has. I wouldn't worry about it if your bud is at 55% in a jar, but it wouldn't hurt to crack it open and inspect them once in a while.
 
I inspect my primary colas for budrot throughout flower, all the way through to trimming, and I just cut it out when I see it. When I see it in flower, I make sure I cut out enough, and I'm sure I waste good bud in the process. When I see it while drying/curing, I usually just toss that bud and move on, I don't alter anything else. Since I'm always looking for it, I end up not losing much of my yield overall. I do regular IPM through veg, and I keep a hepa filter running in my lung room-I think those are the best prevention for the average grower. The reactive oxygen generators work very well for commercial growers, but you don't want one in your bedroom!
ok, I will keep that in mind! however, the thing that pisses me off is that before I sent them to flowering I sprayed micronized sulfur and sterilized the area with the ozonator (it is placed outside where I exhaust the air and I use it to sterilize by closing the whole box and after an hour I also start the outside exhaust to avoid breathing ozone). I ensured good air recirculation, every top was moving, the air exhaust was outside and I had two good dehumidifiers one inside and one outside. Every time I change my house something has to happen.
 
Mold doesn't seem to grow fast at 55%(or lower.) I can't think of a time I've seen it spread once by bud is dried-maybe someone else has. I wouldn't worry about it if your bud is at 55% in a jar, but it wouldn't hurt to crack it open and inspect them once in a while.
Yes in fact that's what I meant. I wanted to ask if it would be better to dry them out so much to get below 55% in jar so that mold would not propagate given the dryness. I'm afraid that by putting them in jars aiming to get to 62% and then eventually slowly get down to 58% I might create the ideal environment for the rot to resume.
 

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
And when you find these little spots of rot, what do you do? I'm confused about what to do about the curing...I'm afraid that the whole curing process will lead to me developing mold that hadn't developed in the suspect tops. Basically...in your opinion is it better to dry them out properly by going below 54% in the jar? skipping all the rehydration and polymerization process
I basically treat them like a bad spot on an apple or loaf of bread - cut off the affected part and maybe 1/2" around it in all directions, and keep the rest that's not affected.

Normally when mold either develops or spreads during the dry/cure process, it's because the humidity is too high (like 65+%). You gotta remember the plant is not transpiring anymore at that point, so the source of moisture deep inside the buds while it's growing, which is what leads to mold germinating in there, is no longer present once the plant is dead.

Also, no I am not afraid of bringing spores into my grow space. They are not like insect pests that like to hitch a ride on clothing or pets or other plants. Spores are basically floating around in the air everywhere, but they need the right conditions to germinate. So I just try to keep my environment in check, avoiding stale pockets of air and big humidity/temp swings and hope for the best. The equipment needed to actually eliminate mold/mildew spores themselves is way out of my budget.
 

John Rollwan

Well-Known Member
I basically treat them like a bad spot on an apple or loaf of bread - cut off the affected part and maybe 1/2" around it in all directions, and keep the rest that's not affected.

Normally when mold either develops or spreads during the dry/cure process, it's because the humidity is too high (like 65+%). You gotta remember the plant is not transpiring anymore at that point, so the source of moisture deep inside the buds while it's growing, which is what leads to mold germinating in there, is no longer present once the plant is dead.

Also, no I am not afraid of bringing spores into my grow space. They are not like insect pests that like to hitch a ride on clothing or pets or other plants. Spores are basically floating around in the air everywhere, but they need the right conditions to germinate. So I just try to keep my environment in check, avoiding stale pockets of air and big humidity/temp swings and hope for the best. The equipment needed to actually eliminate mold/mildew spores themselves is way out of my budget.
Apples I’m down with. I would recommend against cutting mold off bread and eating it. But if you feeling dangerous run the jewels have some fun. Yolo
 

Swarog

Member
Also, just to point out, Bovedas packs are not in any way meant for curing. They are meant for longer term storage.
CVault stainless steel auto cure containers will solver your problem immediately and infinitely. I bought them a couple years back, hold about 250g each, larger sizes as well. I’ll attach pics. 62% RH terpene shields work well as inserts every time.
CVault stainless steel auto cure containers will solver your problem immediately and infinitely. I bought them a couple years back, hold about 250g each, larger sizes as well. I’ll attach pics. 62% RH terpene shields work well as inserts every time.
Those vaults are designed for storage and like the finishing of a cure and by no means "Auto" you still need to burp them. The Op is also having issues in the drying phase so these really wont solve his problems if anything it would actually make them much WORSE. OP just needs to drop his humidity and make sure hes got good air flow over the drying buds.
 

John Rollwan

Well-Known Member
Those vaults are designed for storage and like the finishing of a cure and by no means "Auto" you still need to burp them. The Op is also having issues in the drying phase so these really wont solve his problems if anything it would actually make them much WORSE. OP just needs to drop his humidity and make sure hes got good air flow over the drying buds.
Maybe where I live on the Appalachian highlands the RH/temp is never a big issue for me? They’ve always worked start to finish well like that. Although obviously burping.
 

Swarog

Member
Maybe where I live on the Appalachian highlands the RH/temp is never a big issue for me? They’ve always worked start to finish well like that. Although obviously burping.
Are you going from plant>wet trim>vault, without any drying time in between? or do you dry trim and then vault?
 

John Rollwan

Well-Known Member
Are you going from plant>wet trim>vault, without any drying time in between? or do you dry trim and then vault?
Ive always cut stalk, minor trim anything silly on them, hung dry for 10-12 days until the limbs lose pliability, final trim, stashed. Is there a better way to use them?
 

Swarog

Member
Ive always cut stalk, minor trim anything silly on them, hung dry for 10-12 days until the limbs lose pliability, final trim, stashed. Is there a better way to use them?
That's fine I personally don't have a hard and fast dry time because it varies with cola density. I do wet trim let them dry on the stalks for anywhere from 5-15 days and then clip them off the stalks and cure for at least 3 weeks in either large jars or vaults. I was concerned because you made it sound like you were trimming buds straight into vaults which would be extremely sub optimal. I do want to touch on the fact that I keep the space pitch black, cold, and lower humidity with fans keeping air moving across the buds.
 
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