Firstly, you're wrong about plating being welding. Secondly you're wrong about the shark tooth like microscopic features, or I'm talking about the incorrect sword.
Thirdly, all you did with the rest of your post is arrogantly try to negate my scientific post (RC hardness of 56+. That's right, I'm an engineer and worked for years in a test lab testing materials.) with the general, layman version.
Expensive saw blades that are hardened, tempered, and case hardened again correctly do not dull, they chip off until the amount of missing cutting teeth, leading to loss of cutting production, justifies the purchase of a new blade.
Files are normally about 56RC and are HARD. They do get dull because they deal with filing other HARD (40+) metals for long period of time. Zombie flesh and bone is not 40RC+.
Furthermore, diamond coating is the best as diamond is the hardest material on earth.
Hardness is a characteristic that is defined by the molecular structure of the material, and can be modified very easily with high temperatures and cold, fast, liquid quenches, in terms of steel (yes again, an alloy of many metals including iron.)
plating in an electrochemical process. japanese sword blades are not plated in anything. they are welded together as a brique before the forging goes to the anvil.
your "scientific post" was an attempt to use jargon to confuse the issue. your pretense that gross loss from chipping is distinct from microscopic loss (dulling) is not scientific. when placed under pressure against a harder material, ALL METALS DULL, some particularly hard metals chip and shatter easier than they dull but all blades can and do dull. this is distinct from breaking, chipping, or spalling.
wrapping your brainfart about eternally self-sharpening japanese swords embedded with microcrystalline shark tooth structures and other such hokum isnt convincing anybody you know what youre talking about. you know what DOES make people think you know what youre talking about?
knowing what youre talking about.
to sharpen (remove material to restore the edge profile) any blade from a saw's tooth to an axe's edge to a kitchen knife, to scissors requires a harder tool than the one you are trying to hone. you must remove deformed metal and reshape the edge to the poper angle, and smooth any chips. this is not a magic process, it's done by friction and abrasion in the right directions.
if you are dealing with saw blades who lose teeth till they stop cutting, youre using the wrong saw.
gap toothed saw blades dont cut precisely they tear, jerk and grab, this is unsafe for the worker wasteful of materials and damaging to the equipment. you would be kicked out of a lumber mill for proposing anything so stupid.
no metal working shop would give houseroom to a facilities engineer who thought saw blades could lose teeth and still be used.
no sawyer would let you touch his saw if you espoused that kind of madness.
where do the lost teeth go when they break off?
at what trajectory and at what velocity?
anyone who's ever seen a mill cut into a tree with an eco-nut's spike inside knows the whine of a saw thats about to unwind with lethal intent. most sawmills have metal detectors in the chute to find Greenpeace's additions to the timber and stop the blade before it gets into the spike. and not just to protect the expensive saw, but the flying metal bits can kill.
but then hey, how many teeth can your saws throw into the workspace before they become a hazard?