Leaves not fading after flush?

i don't think the heat would hurt, but those pads are just designed to keep small cups with seedling warm, not sure they'll do much on something big enough to hold a large plant.

i use two fans, one just above the top of the pots blowing on low just to provide ventilation, and one between the tops of the plants and the lights. i have them set up so it blows the bottom air up to the top fan, then across the tops of the plants and out of the tent. if i turned off the humidifier i use in there, the humidity would drop like a rock

Straight Promix and Epsomas Garden Tone. Only unpHed tap water. My well water is pretty hard, 380ppm and moderate total alkalinity, seems to buffer pH well.

Edit: My bad. That run was Fafards C1-P. But basically the same thing as basic Promix. Peat and perlite.

Cookies in straight promix with no soil additives.

Veg nutes whole run, no boosters, no flush.

one time I thought it was the promix....but it was me
promix+rabbit shit or composted chicken shit or jobes organic spikes +water = great success here

well i guess i stand corrected, apparently i should have said I can't grow in straight pro-mix. not sure what i was doing wrong, i use it very successfully in hempy buckets, but my plants in straight promix had weak stalks, broke a lot of branches in flower, and while they yielded ok, just didn't seem up to what i'm getting out of the hempies

Love promix since 2014. Nothing added. Did add 1/2 cup dolomite this time.

Roger A. Shrubber said:

well i guess i stand corrected, apparently i should have said I can't grow in straight pro-mix. not sure what i was doing wrong, i use it very successfully in hempy buckets, but my plants in straight promix had weak stalks, broke a lot of branches in flower, and while they yielded ok, just didn't seem up to what i'm getting out of the hempies

Click to expand...

I think it wicks too much for hempy buckets. And unlike coco it can become water logged. Just my thoughts on it.

i didn't have it in hempies, i had in 7 gallon cloth pots. i use it in my hempies now, but at 80/20 mixed with perlite. works great, you can water every day if you want, or you can let them go about 3 days before they start to actually need it

Roger A. Shrubber said:

i didn't have it in hempies, i had in 7 gallon cloth pots. i use it in my hempies now, but at 80/20 mixed with perlite. works great, you can water every day if you want, or you can let them go about 3 days before they start to actually need it

Click to expand...

Do you use a layer of perlite or such between the hempy res and medium? I've tried it in the store bought hempy/self watering pots with just peat and perlite. Always end up with soggy pots.
I'm thinking maybe a layer(inch give or take)of perlite or hydroton at the as a buffer zone might help?

i use 10 gallon totes that are about 14 inches deep. i put the drain 4 inches high, and put a bed of pure perlite up to the drain, place my plant, then fill it up with the 80/20 mix.
even with the pro-mix, they dry out enough in 3 days to need about 2 gallons of water to get them to expel about a quart of run off

i'm actually trying one right now in pure perlite, and it takes a gallon a day to get it to spit out a little less than a quart

Thanks. I think I'll do a homemade bucket or two next run with a bit deeper res and see how it goes.

I use promix out of the bag , biweekly addition of fertilizer, and water when dry and light.
For 4 gallons of promix in a container with drain holes I need approx 1 gallon of water at each watering
from seedling to harvest, about every 3/4 days in flower/late veg.

Stink Bug said:

It's a type of soil even if the industry lingo leads you to believe otherwise.
It contains organic matter. Supplies nutrients to plants. And supports biological activity. It's soil by definition.

Click to expand...

I prefer the term "growing media".....Not "really" a "soil." BUT, I get your point of contention...

The link you gave is nice. It also points to my point on soil vs. a "media," as far as silica use goes...The author kinda glides by the soil vs. media point but, it is there.

As with any neutral media. It is considered a "hydro" style grow as far as feeding and pHing go. Now I'm sorta using your definition standards to apply this ideal...
You can't apply Mycorrhizal activity as a definition of being a"soil" either. Myco's simply need a media to attach to and grow. Soilless provides that.
"True" hydropnic grow styles, do not....

A Zyme product can work without that media to attah to "need,"

as it attach's directly to the root system. This spectrum of myco's. Feeds off the "shed" cellulose from the roots.. They do not rely on carbs from any other source and self replicate by that....
Still, the use of many synthetic nutrients. Tend to stunt it's ability to reproduce. That's part of why some good lines have you feed a zyme product all run long....This is a good bet for straight hydro style's....Not so much for even soilless...Another point of profit for a nutrient maker to have you applying these products all grow long. In media grows.

A good example of a "zyme" spectrum product that does not have you reapplying the product - GREAT WHITE root dip myco's.

I simply added more information to the thread progression....Not an argument or attack upon your point of view.....Like I said, Nice link!

Stink Bug said:

Can just anything support plant life? Most consider it an amendment when you use it to condition native soils. In our container grows once compost, EWC, greensand etc is added you effectively turn it into a soil.

Click to expand...

Kinda depends on the amounts and diversity of the things your amending with, to create that definition... I see your logic but, to me, soil is an organic, self supporting living biome...Depleted soil is still a soil, you just need to recharge it...But your right. The key is to amend a media with EWC. Compost, aeration component, mineral and a nutrient charge = soil is born...

There was for a while, a "foam" media that was completely inert......I found it a novel idea....Didn't try it and don't see it on the market (at least around here) anymore....

GNOME GROWN said:

Most subjective topic on growing ever but here's my 2 cents..

It all comes down to your grow media and what you're feeding the plants.

IMO soil/organic growers don't have to flush, just give the plants plain water unless you have fed salt based nutrients for some reason then you should flush your soil pots prior to harvest.

Soilless mixes, coco, hydro growers are mostly using salt based nutrients and 100% IMO should be flushed out prior to harvest.

Could always do a test and flush half of your plants don't flush the other half see what you like for yourself.

Click to expand...

Lip G. said:

Please forgive ... at the specific instructions of my gardening supplier .. seems to be an expert , I have been using Gaia Green Power Bloom which is organic .. but for the flowering weeks 6 and 7 i used Growtek Power Bloom 0-50-30...... and for weeks 8 - 9 Advanced Nutruients Overdrive 1-5-4 - and for that, my supplier tells me it is VERY important to flush .. I use CLEARING Solution Hydroponic Specialty Root Wash by Rambridge .. which is a close to organic clearing solutuion .. I'm not as stressed about this now .. I see many saying that the seed breeder gives themselves very flattering turn around times from seed to harvest .. and I now see this taking 11 - 12 weeks easy ... I do need to check trich's again properly today and I'm hoping I have a few more weeks .. then I can get the flushes done - I'm sorry but maybe you didn't know I was using synthetic nutrients for flowering.

Click to expand...

And yet, here comes that false idea of "flushing" nutrients from a plant.

Plants don't work that way! You can not "flush" nutrients from a plant! This is actual plant science!

Not some old hippie myth, based on a stoned out logic!

Furthermore; No "clearing agent" allows you to do what actual natural biology does not allow!
You're being sold a bill of goods by nutrient makers, to make a profit from!

Not to mention that again, you can not "flush" a nutrient from a plant! Organic OR synthetic!

Please do not go on and quote any "magazine" grow "guru."
He works for a magazine. That magazine doesn't make money from YOU buying that magazine.. They make it from the advertisers in that magazine...... If the magazine told the TRUTH. Then those advertisers and their dollars, wouldn't buy advertising space.....

Those are awful high amounts of P&K to be doing.....Nutrient makers love you doing that... Of course I don't know your ratio's but, Bet you could do better by finding another set of feeding source's to use. My point is that they have you ripening fast. Then "flushing" the MEDIA out. This is helping to save you from lower THC results, from high K use....THAT is the 2 weeks of flush..

Does that work? For the most part.....But, how much of that K is still IN the plant and effecting those THC levels? What about the other nutrients the plants could be using to increase it's natural "potential" that you removed for those 2 or more weeks?
I'll bet you could do better as far as concentrations and yields go, by a more refined feeding sch. With more balanced ups and downs. All done at proper times as far as each nutrient is concerned.

I'm not a fan of mono potassium phosphate, as you can tell.....

Yeah Doc I know some semantics are involved. And I see your take on it. My biggest quip is the soilless mixes need to be treated as hydro only. At least that seems too be the general consensus. Many a happy plant has been grow using coco or peat based mixes. Without using any hydro method. Unless you want to consider watering until you get decent runoff as dtw. But again semantics get involved.

The only time that foam stuff is used anymore is to support cut flowers. At least it's the only time I see it anymore. A florists tool if you will.

Roger A. Shrubber said:

i don't think the heat would hurt, but those pads are just designed to keep small cups with seedling warm, not sure they'll do much on something big enough to hold a large plant.

i use two fans, one just above the top of the pots blowing on low just to provide ventilation, and one between the tops of the plants and the lights. i have them set up so it blows the bottom air up to the top fan, then across the tops of the plants and out of the tent. if i turned off the humidifier i use in there, the humidity would drop like a rock

Click to expand...

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!

IT IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM .. this tip I will use always!

I keep cooling medium around the pots (large jugs of frozen water) especially this late in flower and uber convenient with winter here, heat relief is only a balcony away .. and especially at night time as well so I now am working that fan across the soil and it circulates around the tend cyclone style

Roger A. Shrubber said:

you want to dry your soil out? put a fan blowing on it and don't water it.....

and i don't have theories...i have hard proven facts, grew up on a farm, been doing this shit my whole life, know how to grow just about anything....i've done the reading you are too busy to do, and thats why i can say it's fact and not theory...i grow plants that yield a qp to a half lb...a qp is disappointing....your guru needs to meditate some more

Click to expand...

a qp for one plant in a 3x3x5 tent under a 450w ViparSpectra .. I'm doing good .. buds the size of golf balls - I don't have the room for a HPS .. and WONT go besides LED's THAT is the amount of room I have to work with .. so really, for my second successful grow a qp is a mile stone ..the cola is about form my mid forearm to my fist and about as thick as my fist ...

Not a failed micro go by any means...

Size is NOT everything .. Shrubber - I know good weed .. and the guy selling my supplies knows his shit.

Because you know what WORKS FOR YOU doesn't make everybody else wrong .. and I don't have room for making complex soils .. I am limited in space and working up in my yields would only be natural for some one just getting in to a nearly decent, serious attempt at growing.

Insulting people is gunna drive them way .. so take your "sticker reading monkey" and shove him up your tree.

Getting off on being a self intoxicated encyclopedia of your own information is obnoxious.

i wasn't referring specifically to you, but if the banana fits, insert it in a convenient orifice

maybe the guy selling you shit knows what he's talking about, and maybe he doesn't, but he's not your friend, he's a guy that gets commission for selling people stuff....i don't get a commission, and i may not be the most pleasant monkey in the tree, but i try to help people, for nothing but the knowledge that i'm improving the community.....