I don’t know much about him is he considered the resident expert?I won't do Shit til I hear from Mark @welight and see what he has to say.
I don’t kn
No, but he does run the Cutter Electronics website in Australia and they're also the only ones selling these UV diodes.I don’t know much about him is he considered the resident expert?
Okay. Good to know... Still waiting on some kind of answer on implementation and if this is enough for a 4x4 space? Also, wouldn't this be much better on a 2' or 4' strip, same diode count, just spread out?So there are several things to consider and these is some confusion about specs, let me drop into point mode for a moment
just my current list of consideratons
- single die or single chip UVB/C are typically quite low in output, the best I know is the Nichia 280nm chip at 55mw, NCSU334A
- Radiant energy output (mwatt or watt)is not to be confused with led drive power(Watts)
- there are several suppliers of multi die leds, Seoul, LG etc that have higher radiant energy but these are just multiples of single die performance or like a board that has several single die chips
- people like Migro make comments about longevity of UVC/B but dont provide context in terms of what that is. Like any led and more so with UV you need to consider the type of PCB you will attach to, drive characteristics, is the led it self constructed in materials that will degrade under long term operation, how long should you have the UV led on for, its is unlikely to be for hours at a time, so 10000 hours on a UVB/C is likely to be a long time
- what material considerations, you need a quartz lens to both allow passage of UV Light without destroying the lens or in fact using any secondary optical material that will allow the passage of UVB/C
- Most all UV (single die)leds are typically in the 6-8 forward voltage range.
- Cost of UVB/C is significant relative to normal leds. I can make a 2ft 3030 led board with 112 pcs of 3030 UVC but it would be $2000.00, so judicious use is both required from a morphology and cost perspective
Sorry did you mean a single board, no I would suggest 2-3 boards will be required, so driver need would be based on thatOkay. Good to know... Still waiting on some kind of answer on implementation and if this is enough for a 4x4 space? Also, wouldn't this be much better on a 2' or 4' strip, same diode count, just spread out?
Also, what drivers would you say are best matches for these. XLG-150-L for both channels?
So your 285mm UV boards with the 6 each of 280/310 you'd need 3 boards to cover a 4x4? What's this about then at the very bottom from your website?Sorry did you mean a single board, no I would suggest 2-3 boards will be required, so driver need would be based on that
Cheers
The link you send is about a led that is 275nm..this is a very short wavelenght..very dangerous to you and the plants...You should look for leds that have 285-310nm... The 280nm ones are easy to find and cheaper..but in my opinion in also dangerous cause what you really need is in 285nmk and 310 nm mostly...a 280nm could damage the plant and your eye ten time more than a 285nm...I’ve found this model on alibaba quite cheap
SETi/Seoul Viosys CUD8AF4C
Im thinking of building a strip one per sqft of far red leds that turn on at the end of day, and have a single UV 1w diode in the middle that’s on all day.
that should work out good
A 280nm led is not the correct led to use... You should look for 285nm and if not avalaible better 295,300,310 nm..but never going lower wavelenghts than 285nm cause danger of the UVB increases a lot..and you need 285nm and no less wavelenght... in fact some sellers have UVB led fixtures with 280 nm leds cause they are cheaper than the 285 ones and above....This should be avoided! Never use 280 nm leds and below...Plants will suffer, your health too... Even using 285 nm needs caution...There's quite a lot of options surprisingly on eblay that I saw just searching 280 UV led
hi is this for flower only?why do use3k only ?thanksSo I have saved myself a fortune. It turns out I can use my 36b drivers I already have.
So I now intend to buy 528 Samsung f series 56mm 3000k strips and use with 12 HLG-600H-36b drivers.
Each driver would put out 384w for a total of 4609w to cover approximately 130sqft of canopy.
Each individual strip would have 8.72w and around 35 per sqft.
My plan is to mount these strips without a heatsink do you think the wattage per strip is low enough to achieve this?
I will have 6000m3 of air being sucked out of my room into a cooling room and recirculated back into the room creating a negative pressure so I’d think that would count as “active” cooling?
yes this will be for a high density sog. From my research 3000k is best for flower.hi is this for flower only?why do use3k only ?thanks
Is the lm561 what’s on the f strip? Quick google search looks like it might be but can’t find confirmation.@George2324 this is from HLG's website for the Samsung lm561c 80criView attachment 4587286
Great cheers.Yes it what's used in the f series gen3 although most 3k 80cri should have a similar spectrum