Mutated stems

Daino

Daino

Well-Known Member
Your right they do say to start in your final pots but ya see there are a lot of heavy handed ppl out there that maybe tried transplanting autos and you have to be so careful and take your time with it so ppl probably had issues and that's what started that rumor ya know, I have 2 rooms 1 room for auto i start in jiffy pellets then to one gallon and then move up to a 3 gallon for the finish and because they have a shorted life cycle 3 gallon is perfecto to finish in but my other room is for photo period only and I finish is in 5 gallon pots which are fairly big but the root systems are massive when I'm done and dusted it looks like the soil has disappeared because there is just such an abundance of roots, ya see the way too look at it bro is that of your roots become bound and cannot thrive any further the same thing will happen to her fruits :D you made the right decision ya see things like don't top or don't do this or that with autos is all hearsay and has been proven to work I have topped autos and never had any issues as long as proper care and patience is taken and you do it at just the right time she will bounce back with an explosion of lower growth
 
Daino

Daino

Well-Known Member
I see the pictures now and no she wasn't really roots bound but not you won't have to worry about that happening either, can I ask looking at your pictures what exactly is your current light setup??
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Daino said:
Your right they do say to start in your final pots but ya see there are a lot of heavy handed ppl out there that maybe tried transplanting autos and you have to be so careful and take your time with it so ppl probably had issues and that's what started that rumor ya know, I have 2 rooms 1 room for auto i start in jiffy pellets then to one gallon and then move up to a 3 gallon for the finish and because they have a shorted life cycle 3 gallon is perfecto to finish in but my other room is for photo period only and I finish is in 5 gallon pots which are fairly big but the root systems are massive when I'm done and dusted it looks like the soil has disappeared because there is just such an abundance of roots, ya see the way too look at it bro is that of your roots become bound and cannot thrive any further the same thing will happen to her fruits :D you made the right decision ya see things like don't top or don't do this or that with autos is all hearsay and has been proven to work I have topped autos and never had any issues as long as proper care and patience is taken and you do it at just the right time she will bounce back with an explosion of lower growth
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Yea I heard you need the roots to grow the fruits in soil. I meant with any plant going into flower that they say to leave it be rather auto or photo like switching nutes, pruning and defoliating, anything really but there are people who do it.

I was pruning in phases here and there as not much leaf matter but was going to remove lower growth for not much longer, then leave it be and finish off.

Usually there is always a growth spurt after transplanting and I was suggested on my journal to up pot so you aren’t the only one who felt it was small for soil.
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Daino said:
I see the pictures now and no she wasn't really roots bound but not you won't have to worry about that happening either, can I ask looking at your pictures what exactly is your current light setup??
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Fecida ufo 65 watt 700ppfd 12” away on the phone meter app but advertised as 800-1000 ppfd. Regular room decor strip lighting that is a cob led 150ppfd 2” away on the phone meter app and sounds about right.

The ufo is to get the plant going, never turned past half way and eventually dimmed to almost off as side lighting gets turned up to 100% so watts of light dont exceed 45 watts. Space cab grow which is like a tall space bucket. Ufo dimmed to almost off is still bright, like 150ppfd so 300ppfd which is common for space buckets.

So not much yield was expected, it is really just to mess around and put a year old project to work. Inspired bu stealth grows or something cool to have in a bedroom.
 
Daino

Daino

Well-Known Member
I'm a little worried looking at your lighting are you using an actually grow light with the correct spectrums that a cannabis plant will thrive under or just led strip lights because if its just strip light your gonna have more problems, ya see with a plant whether it be auto or photo the same either way do not remove any large fan leaves if possible only if they need to be removed, those big leaves are the solar panels of the plant that make it photosynthesize the way it does, and if your providing light it must be the right power and spectrum to falsly give the plant no reason to doubt its not out in the sun you get me, I have tried all forms of DIY lighting and the best I have gotten from a DIY setup is cfl because they have a decent spectrum although led is brighter and more energy efficient it come down to the useable spectrums that the plant needs that will give you optimal growth
 
Daino

Daino

Well-Known Member
OK thank god as I didn't spot that in the pics for seedlings aim for 200-300 ppfd for optimal and is OK for early veg, mid to late veg and just as you see the pistils showing you she is entering flowering aim for 500-700 that would be low end ppfd and will just about do a decent job for you, I go 300ppfd for seedling and early veg then mid to late veg 600-750 and then on my lights flip I go 850 for that 1st week of transitioning and then when I see pistils I juice her to 950-1050 for the 1st 4 weeks then the final weeks it's about 1200ppfd but only that high when I'm supplementing with c02 which I always try to do, I can teach you how to make a diy co2 system that will probably cost you about 5 quid at most and will provide co2 for about 3-4 weeks saves you a fortune because added co2 is crazy money for what your actually getting
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Daino said:
I'm a little worried looking at your lighting are you using an actually grow light with the correct spectrums that a cannabis plant will thrive under or just led strip lights because if its just strip light your gonna have more problems, ya see with a plant whether it be auto or photo the same either way do not remove any large fan leaves if possible only if they need to be removed, those big leaves are the solar panels of the plant that make it photosynthesize the way it does, and if your providing light it must be the right power and spectrum to falsly give the plant no reason to doubt its not out in the sun you get me, I have tried all forms of DIY lighting and the best I have gotten from a DIY setup is cfl because they have a decent spectrum although led is brighter and more energy efficient it come down to the useable spectrums that the plant needs that will give you optimal growth
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I meant I pune branches that come from nodes to do 4 cola training up until close to mid flower where it just buds and stacks then finishes as one cola but four of them. I leave as much leaves as possible until they die out mostly then it is trashed.

The strip light is 3000k yellow light which I read plants like in bloom and these grow lights have 3k yellows for that reason. Ufo covers 1.5x1.5 a bit over powered but I don’t use it more than half way but it was the best cheap overhead light to use for now.

If you look up strip light space bucket grows they can make some juicy buds and I side lighted a dark under canopy of larf which wasn’t worth it in a normal size grow IMO if it is like a 2x2 that means it is over crowded.

But the way the larf buds grew into the strip light of blue specturm 5k blue it was worth noting if to use in a set up like my 1x1 space grow. Here is a link to it for more details.

The Space Cabinet

Need a place to dump photos of grows via the space cabinet I built. 3000k 40w cob led strip light and ufo fecida 65w led that will dim to almost off during later stages. Overall 45~ watt grow with 500w dehuey running minimally, in small space. Half gallon ffof to be top dressed when needed...
www.rollitup.org

Some photos of last grow of strip light weed. No light from above light so it is pure strip light weed. Even larf buds from 10” away towards middle of plant legging.
 

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medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Daino said:
OK thank god as I didn't spot that in the pics for seedlings aim for 200-300 ppfd for optimal and is OK for early veg, mid to late veg and just as you see the pistils showing you she is entering flowering aim for 500-700 that would be low end ppfd and will just about do a decent job for you, I go 300ppfd for seedling and early veg then mid to late veg 600-750 and then on my lights flip I go 850 for that 1st week of transitioning and then when I see pistils I juice her to 950-1050 for the 1st 4 weeks then the final weeks it's about 1200ppfd but only that high when I'm supplementing with c02 which I always try to do, I can teach you how to make a diy co2 system that will probably cost you about 5 quid at most and will provide co2 for about 3-4 weeks saves you a fortune because added co2 is crazy money for what your actually getting
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I pushed a plant with too much ppfd once, it did not end well so I am using less ppfd that is more under 1500 for a 3x3 or 700-1000ppfd for a 2x2 or else it will over heat it especially in a space cab or bucket of 1x1.

1x1 is small, hard to set up a canopy in it, this was the best idea I had since my last run I posted with coco that was so over crowded I had to restart. Over crowding causes me mold. Strip lights can be set closer without burning or over heating the space. Less fire hazard.

I rather not get into co2 because I could get good enough plants by feeding it a good 700-1000 ppdd.
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Space buckets aren’t concerned much about spectrum, they are not really the same as a grow that it would matter. Clearly this is from a site and not my space bucket so no credit for me, just an example. It looks like white light but thats it.
 

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Ed Rosestale

Member
medidedicated said:
@Daino Hope I made the right choice, it is 1 gallon now, doubled up from last pot size. Did not look root bound but just in time to transplant though I thought people leave it be in start of flower but the leaves were small. I don’t want twig like yield either.

Hope this also cuts me a break from constant drooping and under/over watering by mistake. Plus it was almost time to feed it too. Wish I made it shallow but had a feeling tall/narrow potting would allow it to root down as they like to leave the top surface unrooted but damn, it shorted me on space quite a bit.
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Have you ever considered the plant looks like this just because of the fans being so close or nah?
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I waited till day 3 after transplant to water again as pot was very light and dry. Easier to tell when dry now that it is a gallon, gets very heavy when watering. Hows it look, should I wait longer to water?

It perks and droops in longer intervals since up potting. Still droops though when it gets dry, so far.
 

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medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I do not want to start a thread just for this question but it is related to mutations or maybe not.

I would find the thread if I could but they were saying hey, this seedling has 1, 3, 5 or 7 tip leafs and is this normal? It was either 5 or 7, I am guessing 5 because they said it was normal which is 1, 3, 5 then 7 tip leafs. After that it can go 9 or 11 if it is happy.

So here I have a 1 tip leaf, 3 tip and now straight to 7. Mutation or super happy? Just curious, not worthy of a new thread. Ever see this? How common is this?
 

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