So not use the XM-L2's then? I dont think they are driven to 3 amps (10w's) although they are driven quite hard 7-7.5w's i think.I think on the onyx. Using 10w leds. They should use less per panel.
less amount of chips. I think that's alot for a 6"x12" panel. Or double the size of the heat sink. These are designed for fresh water aquariums. Have to penetrate quite a bit of water. Not horticulture like scotch said before.So not use the XM-L2's then? I dont think they are driven to 3 amps (10w's) although they are driven quite hard 7-7.5w's i think.
So you mean they should use different drivers (less current)? right?
XM-L2's range from 0-10w's (0-3amps)less amount of chips. I think that's alot for a 6"x12" panel. Or double the size of the heat sink.
good to have you here Mike...Hey guys, just hopping on to say hello! Thanks for the feedback so far, all of it is taken very seriously and we will consider it all as we develop newer models in the future. I see there have been some questions on the Onyx unit so I just wanted to see if I could help clear anything up or provide any insight into the light. Again, not trying to push our product since we aren't sponsors of the site so only looking to answer questions if there are any. Just to clear the most recent point up, the Onyx Grow was designed specifically for horticulture. Our aquarium Onyx uses mostly XT-E/XP-G CREE LEDs, not the XM-L2 like we have on the Onyx Grow. We felt we needed more power (to get better yields) so we went with the XM-L2's, but we aren't running them at full blast (3A). They're being run closer to 2.2A each, or roughly 7W per LED.
If there's anything you'd like to know please feel free to PM, email, call, or ask it here and I'll do the best I can to help answer those questions. Thanks again and looking forward to speaking with all of you!
Hey guys, just hopping on to say hello! Thanks for the feedback so far, all of it is taken very seriously and we will consider it all as we develop newer models in the future. I see there have been some questions on the Onyx unit so I just wanted to see if I could help clear anything up or provide any insight into the light. Again, not trying to push our product since we aren't sponsors of the site so only looking to answer questions if there are any. Just to clear the most recent point up, the Onyx Grow was designed specifically for horticulture. Our aquarium Onyx uses mostly XT-E/XP-G CREE LEDs, not the XM-L2 like we have on the Onyx Grow. We felt we needed more power (to get better yields) so we went with the XM-L2's, but we aren't running them at full blast (3A). They're being run closer to 2.2A each, or roughly 7W per LED.
If there's anything you'd like to know please feel free to PM, email, call, or ask it here and I'll do the best I can to help answer those questions. Thanks again and looking forward to speaking with all of you!
Welcome to RIU Mike!!.................Love the remote driver(wish it was dimmable though) and the top bin xml-2 ww leds. Are you going to offer polished aluminum inserts with no diffuser down the line with your onyx products(90/100 degree options)??? The chances of emitter damage are low, and cleaning would be a breeze(dust off cans), it would significantly reduce your light loss%/more light onto the canopy which we want as growers. I would prefer if the diodes where spaced out a little more/larger casing for better coverage in the future.
$450 for 250 actual watts of high quality leds is a decent price IMO........good luck and happy growing
Thanks! We typically see aluminum reflectors on multi-chip LED arrays as they'll allow for better color blending and because making a new mold for a plastic lens can often be cost prohibitive. When you mention it decreases the chance for emitter damage can be you a bit more specific as to the type of damage? We've never seen much emitter damage from using a single secondary lens though admittedly we never looked for any. In our opinion if used correctly a secondary lens can often "protect" the LED chip from the elements, which is of course important for aquariums (ie. salt creep, moisture, etc). I'm definitely not a lens expert so I'd have to talk to some lens manufacturers to compare the light loss/gain % from using a standard secondary lens like we have now versus an aluminum insert, if the insert proves to be more effective then that's definitely something we can think about using for future models of the light. Our goal is definitely the same as yours, to get more light to the plants as cost effectively as possible.Welcome to RIU Mike!!.................Love the remote driver(wish it was dimmable though) and the top bin xml-2 ww leds. Are you going to offer polished aluminum inserts with no diffuser down the line with your onyx products(90/100 degree options)??? The chances of emitter damage are low, and cleaning would be a breeze(dust off cans), it would significantly reduce your light loss%/more light onto the canopy which we want as growers. I would prefer if the diodes where spaced out a little more/larger casing for better coverage in the future.
$450 for 250 actual watts of high quality leds is a decent price IMO........good luck and happy growing
This is also something we can consider moving forward, as long as it gets balanced light spread and doesn't create a lot of "hot spots" directly underneath the areas where the COBs are. We've seen some COB samples before but have never sold them, my initial thoughts at the time we saw them was that they do produce more light in total, but less light per watt than using a 5 or 10W CREE LED. It's been a while so I could be mistaken but we'll keep an eye out for COBs moving forward as we do see them fairly often.Fewer but bigger cobs- 30-50w actual draw
Aluminum reflectors is nothing new, its on 95%+ of the horticultural lighting on the market. Light passing through anything will come at a loss, no way around this To lower cost you can use a reflective coating on a plastic shell/cone like the hans panelThanks! We typically see aluminum reflectors on multi-chip LED arrays as they'll allow for better color blending and because making a new mold for a plastic lens can often be cost prohibitive. When you mention it decreases the chance for emitter damage can be you a bit more specific as to the type of damage? We've never seen much emitter damage from using a single secondary lens though admittedly we never looked for any. In our opinion if used correctly a secondary lens can often "protect" the LED chip from the elements, which is of course important for aquariums (ie. salt creep, moisture, etc). I'm definitely not a lens expert so I'd have to talk to some lens manufacturers to compare the light loss/gain % from using a standard secondary lens like we have now versus an aluminum insert, if the insert proves to be more effective then that's definitely something we can think about using for future models of the light. Our goal is definitely the same as yours, to get more light to the plants as cost effectively as possible.
Hi Mike. I have your panel. I'd happily pay for a Aluminum insert upgrade,, right now!!Our goal is definitely the same as yours, to get more light to the plants as cost effectively as possible.