T-Time
Well-Known Member
As I said, I'm pretty bad at this :/
Any sugestions for the replacement for the holders that can handle bigger voltage ?
Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!
- Thread starter TimeToBurn
- Start date
Any sugestions for the replacement for the holders that can handle bigger voltage ?
T-Time
Well-Known Member
Display would be something like this. You would only have to choose the right model
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=172623759851&category=58278&pm=1&ds=0&t=1505550725352&cspheader=1
kony brado
Well-Known Member
Thank's for that link,i did not know they were ac and dc.
if you use that model you should not connect to your dc:
Description
Pls Note The 0-50A is DC 6.5~100V,The 0-100A/0-20V is AC 80~260V)kony brado
Well-Known Member
Ill try to find some 300+ volt holders for you,i hope there is,if not soldering wold be an option for you?
T-Time
Well-Known Member
Soldering is an option but i wouldnt have to do it if I dont have to. Too lazy
i would have to cut out the connectors from the holders and leave the holders as they are. What is the worst that could happen to the system now if one burns?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Darkness...
You can also solder some 450v push connectors to the cobs, btw.
COB's soldering goes fast. Put some solder on the pad and at the end of the wire then solder them together.
With some non-conductive silicon you can isolate the solder joints.
You can also solder some 450v push connectors to the cobs, btw.
COB's soldering goes fast. Put some solder on the pad and at the end of the wire then solder them together.
With some non-conductive silicon you can isolate the solder joints.
kony brado
Well-Known Member
you can use these allso ;Soldering is an option but i wouldnt have to do it if I dont have to. Too lazy
What is the worst that could happen to the system now if one burns?
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2844
i think jerry(kingbright) sell them as well as cutter
My guess is the hole string will turn off, thats it ,but i cant know for sure,maybe worse maybe not.
thank's
Growcob5
Active Member
Then led chips soccer I have a few myself I threw them away 50 watt playing 30 almost from the wall it is not bright as a citizenship I prefer them and they're not too much more money but that's if you're getting from a us supplier on ebay not from China I paid a dollar fifty apiece for my chips that are the same as yours they are not good enough for flowering only for maybe ceilings110 Volt AC Driverless COB Lamp Test
I completed the 110 volt AC driverless COB lamp today, it was a one day build. It seems to draw 200 watts from the wall according to my Kill-o-watt (will have to check on that). The fixture runs at about 40C and the single COB light output appears to be about the same as a 32 volt DC floodlight COB running at 50 watts. It tested ok for grounding and there's no current leaking through the COB packages to the heat sink and the lamp is well grounded with a three prong plug.
Now for some pictures.
I used a terminal block salvaged from a streetlamp to hook up the wires. On future builds I might just solder them together and cover with shrink tubing, then I can tuck them under a reflector, if I want to add one. I used gobs of silicone to hold down the wires and to hold the chord strain relief in firmly. For added safety I could put gobs of silicone on the soldered COB contacts too.
I could tape on some sheets of plastic to the top of the heatsink fins to increase cooling efficiency, but the lamp runs cool enough.
During bench testing the lamp ran at 40 C and appeared to draw 200 watts, the fan draws less than 3 watts. I need to look further into this.
You can see the flicker these COBs produce in this picture as horizontal lines and estimate the loss of light by measuring the width of the shadow band as compared to the lighted band. I've got the light on test over a plant for now and it produces about 50K LUX on the grid at a 12" distance, also the full spectrum (burple) COB might be throwing off the LUX readings.
110 Volt AC Driverless COB Lamp Test Update
I took some temperature readings off the AC COB lamp today, it was running steady on a veg plant since I put it on test and the heatsink temp was 43 C. I have a .22 amp 120mm fan cooling it, but could upgrade to a .30 amp fan and cover the tops of the heatsink with plastic to better direct airflow, this should bring the lamp down to the 40 C range. The vendors claim an efficacy of 100 - 120 lumens/watt with a CRI of 80, but I dunno how much credence to give to that. I didn't test the power consumption of each COB, but tutaj5 (using the 220V version), says the 50 watt AC COBs draw 65 watts, which would explain where the 50 extra watts are going in my 3 COB lamp, even though it runs at 110 volts.
110 Volt AC Driverless COB
If these ebay COBs can produce a 100 lumens/watt, then a COB running at 65 watts must be putting a minimum of 60 watts into light, say 6000 lumens per WW COB. Considering the price (under $2!), that's not bad, some folks only want to grow a couple of plants and unlike a larger operation, efficiency doesn't matter so much. Start up costs are a major barrier to many who might like to build grow lights, but most folks can afford $20 to 50 bucks for COBs and other parts. If you use AC COBs to make a cheap grow light, heat sinking will be the biggest expense, but you can keep costs down by getting creative going to junk yards and repurposing other things. The local metal supply or machine shop is another source of cheap aluminum extrusions, like heavey C and D cross sections, depending on the profile, size and thickness prices can range from a $1 to $5 a foot. If you live in the states mail order heatsink extrusions with free delivery are an option too.
If you build using these COBs make sure to check them for ground faults with a multimeter before and after installation. And for Christ's sake USE A THREE PRONG PLUG AND GROUND THE GREEN WIRE PROPERLY TO THE HEAT SINK. Follow the Line Neutral wiring conventions and if you don't know much about that, google it or watch a youtube video and make sure you wire the COBs and plug right. Also, after the light is up and running take yer multimeter and check for current leaking from the heat sink to ground. Better safe than dead!
I just saw on one of the vendors sites that the light output for these 50 watt AC COBs is 4200 lumens/ 50 watts = 84 lumen/watt + 15 watts for the driver= not the most efficient LED grow light. Nonetheless paying for power is a lot cheaper than paying for pot and these can get ya going real cheap. The only advantage is in startup, hopefully one would replace the AC cobs with something better over time. A low income person could still save lots of money over buying pot though, it could be a way for some people to get somewhere better over time.
NOTE:
I can't seem to edit or correct the photos on this thread, go to the thread below to see them.
See more on my thread https://www.rollitup.org/t/economical-multi-led-chip-projects-for-growing.852256/page-15
T-Time
Well-Known Member
I see no difference to the ones that I already have. I would have to solder anyway so I'll leave it as is and if they will fail, I will take the lights down and solder it.
kony brado
Well-Known Member
i think i wold do the same if i were you,i cant recommend it,but i wold go the same way i guess.I see no difference to the ones that I already have. I would have to solder anyway so I'll leave it as is and if they will fail, I will take the lights down and solder it.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Make sure the whole unit is well grounded, Lol!I see no difference to the ones that I already have. I would have to solder anyway so I'll leave it as is and if they will fail, I will take the lights down and solder it.
But seriously..
In a worst case you could lose the connection if the connector melts down, in this case you have an open wire with ~450v hanging below the COBs and it is dark in the same time. I would at least try to secure the wire connetions!
Only one fail could be enough to make your mom really unhappy.
DIY-HP-LED
Well-Known Member
I see wisdom in your suggestion
T-Time
Well-Known Member
Everything is grounded and tripple checked
I've put the lights in and prepered the tent for the ladies
. Pump is running and I'm checking for leaks (lights not powered). Next will be testing for condensation as I might have to wrap the aluminium profiles with that foam insulation tape that someone suggested before.Heres couple snaps of how it looks.
For now it will be DIY hybrid SIP/hydro setup (hempy bucket?) As I'm not fully commited to no-till. Don't have the space to cook the soil. Tried to source the ingredients like build a soil Clackamas Coots recipe but im still missing few that are hard to get where I live. So will C how it goes as is and will be making a few tweeks in the next run if needed.
Any sugestions are welcome
Maybe I should start grow log ?
Here it is.
Just a few final touches and it will be shinning on my ladies
The fixture is water cooled and will be used to illuminate 5x5 vertical space. Made an "cooling box" for a car heater core that will be put inline with 6" extraction fan. That and 40L of water will hopefully keep it cool for 12h.
Short list of components:
-2x meanwell hlg-480h-c1400b
-20x cxb3590 DB 3500k 36v
-2x TOCOS 100K linear potentiometer
-2x LCD displays meters
-1x VW heater core
-1x JECOD DC3000 pump
-lots of work
Max power 970W @ 1.4A, but will most likely run 730 @ 1.05A
Still have to mount 4x RapidLed Far Red Initiator Puck that I've purchased for this project.
View attachment 4009305 View attachment 4009307 View attachment 4009308 View attachment 4009309
Looks like a cool light T-Time, It would be cool to see section for just L/C lights to share the different concepts and techniques for cooling and keeping the heat out of the grow room. As far as condensation on the tubes Check out Chilled led
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
You should, definately...
Realy interesting setup!
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Failsafehydro
Member
Got my build finished
Pretty happy with the results, cant wait till its time to turn those reds on!!
Pretty happy with the results, cant wait till its time to turn those reds on!!
T-Time
Well-Known Member
No leaks, no condensation. Plants are loving it. Will be making some small changes to the set up next round but mostly for SIP. Lights are running shweet! Added some far reds to them that are switched on after main lights go off.
Started a grow log somewhere in led section.
Why would You keep the leds behind that glass?
It's blocking off some of the light.
