Pile of curing weed

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Hey, I can appreciate the dudes "outside the box" approach to things and curious mind but Perhaps he should sign up for some science courses so his responses can be more informed and less anecdotal and "bro-sciencey."
Yeah, I've never read a scientific article.
 

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
Yeah your troll game sure is, troll. You're on MY thread, so who's the troll, troll?
you're trolling the boards with completely dissonant info with zero credibility, I'm all for outside of the box thinking, but dismissing what is already accepted largely as "acceptable" only to replace with outlying anecdotes and zero evidence (you want to answer my question about # of times you've actually done this?) it begs to question how much fun you're having, or if you're serious.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
you're trolling the boards with completely dissonant info with zero credibility, I'm all for outside of the box thinking, but dismissing what is already accepted largely as "acceptable" only to replace with outlying anecdotes and zero evidence (you want to answer my question about # of times you've actually done this?) it begs to question how much fun you're having, or if you're serious.
What, how many times I heat cured weed? Twice, why do you ask?
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
And how many times have you cured the traditional way and for how many months?
Never. I just dried it in a microwave before. But I can tell you that the traditional curing method found in all forums etc dries it too quickly, setting the green color. That's why it's green and remains green no matter what happens later. Here's some information about curing another plant called tobacco from this article.

"Burley’s quality is influenced by moisture and temperature conditions inside the curing facility during the curing period. Steady or average daily humidity in the 72‐75% range is considered optimum for producing the quality of tobacco leaves currently desired by the industry. The optimum temperature is considered to be in a range of mean daily temperatures from 65 to 90˚F."

How many weed curing guides recommend that humidity level? None. Now here's what happens.

"Tobacco harvested in late September or early October presents additional challenges for curing. If the weather is especially dry during the first 3‐4 weeks, the tobacco may dry too fast, causing a greenish or “piebald” color to be set in the leaf."

It's supposed to dry over a period of weeks, not a few days like everyone does. After those first few days, when it gets down to 60-65% rh, it has already been dried. All that stuff with the jars is not curing, it's just further drying at a slower rate and then it's aging, which is different from curing. The humidity level of the weed after the 3 day drying is the same as the FINAL humidity of tobacco, 62%. That shows you that the weed is not cured at all, just quick dried, quick meaning about 3 days.

The way I now do it is a real curing method, flue curing. The way everybody else does it is not a curing method of any kind, it's a drying method. Show me one article on tobacco curing in which it's taken down to 62% humidity in 3 days at room temperature. The only humidity control done by everyone else is keeping it LOW, in the 60s, not up in the 70s. That's where you all screwed up and that's why you all have green weed.

Here's an example of how NOT to cure plant material, unless green is your favorite color. This is from http://www.growweedeasy.com/drying-curing

"Optimal Drying Environment:
Room Temperature - Around 70°F (21°C)
50% Humidity

Optimal Environment in Jars (Curing):
Room Temperature - Around 70°F (21°C)
60-65% Humidity"

What happened there was that the weed was quick dried in WAY too low humidity and then it was AGED in jars. Aging is not curing, which is why it's a different word. BTW, one way to maintain a RH of 72-75% would be to use a saturated solution of salt with excess salt grains, so basically a salt paste. If it gets dry you add water, if all the salt dissolves you add salt. I don't know how much it would take, probably a pan of it. Then you would keep that and the weed in a closed container with a small fan in it. Can't get much easier than that. You'd have to arrange the weed in such a way that air can circulate around it well, like maybe on a screen over the pan. I may try it sometime when I have some weed I don't mind sitting around for a couple months. Would it mold? I don't know, maybe or even probably. But then that's a good reason to flue cure it instead. No mold on my weed.
 
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DankBudzzz

Well-Known Member
Never. I just dried it in a microwave before. But I can tell you that the traditional curing method found in all forums etc dries it too quickly, setting the green color. That's why it's green and remains green no matter what happens later. Here's some information about curing another plant called tobacco from this article.

"Burley’s quality is influenced by moisture and temperature conditions inside the curing facility during the curing period. Steady or average daily humidity in the 72‐75% range is considered optimum for producing the quality of tobacco leaves currently desired by the industry. The optimum temperature is considered to be in a range of mean daily temperatures from 65 to 90˚F."

How many weed curing guides recommend that humidity level? None. Now here's what happens.

"Tobacco harvested in late September or early October presents additional challenges for curing. If the weather is especially dry during the first 3‐4 weeks, the tobacco may dry too fast, causing a greenish or “piebald” color to be set in the leaf."

It's supposed to dry over a period of weeks, not a few days like everyone does. After those first few days, when it gets down to 60-65% rh, it has already been dried. All that stuff with the jars is not curing, it's just further drying at a slower rate and then it's aging, which is different from curing. The humidity level of the weed after the 3 day drying is the same as the FINAL humidity of tobacco, 62%. That shows you that the weed is not cured at all, just quick dried, quick meaning about 3 days.

The way I now do it is a real curing method, flue curing. The way everybody else does it is not a curing method of any kind, it's a drying method. Show me one article on tobacco curing in which it's taken down to 62% humidity in 3 days at room temperature. The only humidity control done by everyone else is keeping it LOW, in the 60s, not up in the 70s. That's where you all screwed up and that's why you all have green weed.

Here's an example of how NOT to cure plant material, unless green is your favorite color. This is from http://www.growweedeasy.com/drying-curing

"Optimal Drying Environment:
Room Temperature - Around 70°F (21°C)
50% Humidity

Optimal Environment in Jars (Curing):
Room Temperature - Around 70°F (21°C)
60-65% Humidity"

What happened there was that the weed was quick dried in WAY too low humidity and then it was AGED in jars. Aging is not curing, which is why it's a different word. BTW, one way to maintain a RH of 72-75% would be to use a saturated solution of salt with excess salt grains, so basically a salt paste. If it gets dry you add water, if all the salt dissolves you add salt. I don't know how much it would take, probably a pan of it. Then you would keep that and the weed in a closed container with a small fan in it. Can't get much easier than that. You'd have to arrange the weed in such a way that air can circulate around it well, like maybe on a screen over the pan. I may try it sometime when I have some weed I don't mind sitting around for a couple months. Would it mold? I don't know, maybe or even probably. But then that's a good reason to flue cure it instead. No mold on my weed.
You can't compare tobacco to weed in regards to curing, also traditional curing is not drying to fast...your method is way to fast with too high of a heat. You honestly think if you method was better then there wouldn't be more concrete evidence and more growers doing it, and I don't want to hear about Columbia weed that is cured this way and is superior blah blah, theycure that way for volume and quickness not for flavor and potency.... I don't often get heated on these forums but this thread is ridiculous. You sound like a 14 year old who thinks they know the key to life....you have no idea? Enjoy smoking that swag
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Surprising number of learning disabled people on this forum, apparently. What part of my explanation of the difference between drying and curing went over your heads, all of it? BTW, the first sign of learning disability is not being able to spell the name of the nation Colombia.
 
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CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
troll harder, you've lost me with your zero credibility game

cures 2x with heat, with zero cures but says those doing it (see; cup winners) are doing it all wrong... be easy bobcajun
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
troll harder, you've lost me with your zero credibility game

cures 2x with heat, with zero cures but says those doing it (see; cup winners) are doing it all wrong... be easy bobcajun
Okay, so please explain how tobacco requires 70-75% RH and about 8 weeks to cure but weed can cure in 60-65% RH. I'm sure you have a sound scientific basis for your curing procedure.

The first 3-4 weeks of tobacco air curing is called the coloring phase, because it turns it brown. So if you were actually curing your weed it would be brown in 4 weeks. So let's see your brown weed.
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
Never. I just dried it in a microwave before. .
So, you have never dried the product the recommended way and you have never cured the product the recommended way. Yet you claim to "know" whats best....

You try to link Traditional curing methods (drying in very large amounts outside in the sun- Browning effect ) with a more boutique, controlled better way. Which you cannot in reality do. Someone trying to "cure" 500 outside plants is not going to do it the better way that we can do. You also keep confusing that horrible tobacco plant with Cannabis. Unless im mistaken they are completely different species. I also think that the flu cure that Tobacco growers use was to speed up the process of curing not give it a better cure. But thats off topic.

Its very hard to take you seriously due to you having no bass line to work from and the generality's you seem to draw from and you certainly shouldnt be preaching the "my way is best" if you havent tried the best way. How could you know? Bro science and "I just know" doesnt cut it, we are adults.
 

ondoogyob

Well-Known Member
I'm not interested in discussing the merits of BobCajun's unusual method. However, I suspect, as more science folks come into this field, we will stop using the misnomer "cured". We are not "curing" cannabis, we are drying it in such a way as to stabilize it, with the goals of minimizing chemical and microbial degradation, along with preventing the loss of volatile constituents to the environment. This is the same for all herbaceous botanical materials containing volatile constituents. You dry too fast, you lose the volatiles. You dry too slow, you get microbial growth. You have to find the right balance for each herb in your environment, whether we're talking cannabis, lavender, or cleavers. Technically, "curing" involves increasing the solute concentration of a biological material, so as to reduce its moisture content and subsequently inhibit microbial growth. We do not "cure" cannabis. However, we do dry it, in a controlled manner, to achieve some of the same goals (the approach to which is open for discussion...or argument, as the case may be).
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
I'm not interested in discussing the merits of BobCajun's unusual method. However, I suspect, as more science folks come into this field, we will stop using the misnomer "cured". We are not "curing" cannabis, we are drying it in such a way as to stabilize it, with the goals of minimizing chemical and microbial degradation, along with preventing the loss of volatile constituents to the environment. This is the same for all herbaceous botanical materials containing volatile constituents. You dry too fast, you lose the volatiles. You dry too slow, you get microbial growth. You have to find the right balance for each herb in your environment, whether we're talking cannabis, lavender, or cleavers. Technically, "curing" involves increasing the solute concentration of a biological material, so as to reduce its moisture content and subsequently inhibit microbial growth. We do not "cure" cannabis. However, we do dry it, in a controlled manner, to achieve some of the same goals (the approach to which is open for discussion...or argument, as the case may be).
Stoners like their weird terms to much and the term "cured" has been used for 100's of years so i can not see it not being used.
The term id love to get rid of is "Flushed" and the one id like people to be more aware of is "Defoliate".
 

ondoogyob

Well-Known Member
Stoners like their weird terms to much and the term "cured" has been used for 100's of years so i can not see it not being used. The term id love to get rid of is "Flushed" and the one id like people to be more aware of is "Defoliate".
Yes, "flushed" is another one. I'd be interested to know how far back use of the term "cure" actually goes....along with what terms non-Anglo cultures have traditionally used for drying...and whether those terms are metaphors for other processes (e.g. do they use the same term for "dry" or "cure" or "ferment" or "pickle" or [...]?).
 

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
In the trade that is cannabis, curing is widely accepted as the term referring to post processing of the plant after harvest.
 

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
I'm game to try this curing method. Nothing to lose besides a little bud and upside if it is better. If not, I'll have some fun and get something different. I'm already done for this season so I'll report back in about a year. Tried cobb cure this season and those are barely green at all anymore after just a couple weeks. :bigjoint:
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
So, you have never dried the product the recommended way and you have never cured the product the recommended way. Yet you claim to "know" whats best....

You try to link Traditional curing methods (drying in very large amounts outside in the sun- Browning effect ) with a more boutique, controlled better way. Which you cannot in reality do. Someone trying to "cure" 500 outside plants is not going to do it the better way that we can do. You also keep confusing that horrible tobacco plant with Cannabis. Unless im mistaken they are completely different species. I also think that the flu cure that Tobacco growers use was to speed up the process of curing not give it a better cure. But thats off topic.

Its very hard to take you seriously due to you having no bass line to work from and the generality's you seem to draw from and you certainly shouldnt be preaching the "my way is best" if you havent tried the best way. How could you know? Bro science and "I just know" doesnt cut it, we are adults.
Oh I've dried weed by hanging it up for a few days before, just not recently. I do think that other people should stick to the drying though. Curing is more complicated.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
I'm not interested in discussing the merits of BobCajun's unusual method. However, I suspect, as more science folks come into this field, we will stop using the misnomer "cured". We are not "curing" cannabis, we are drying it in such a way as to stabilize it, with the goals of minimizing chemical and microbial degradation, along with preventing the loss of volatile constituents to the environment. This is the same for all herbaceous botanical materials containing volatile constituents. You dry too fast, you lose the volatiles. You dry too slow, you get microbial growth. You have to find the right balance for each herb in your environment, whether we're talking cannabis, lavender, or cleavers. Technically, "curing" involves increasing the solute concentration of a biological material, so as to reduce its moisture content and subsequently inhibit microbial growth. We do not "cure" cannabis. However, we do dry it, in a controlled manner, to achieve some of the same goals (the approach to which is open for discussion...or argument, as the case may be).
Nice to that one person recognizes that. People shouldn't even call it curing, but drying.
 

DankBudzzz

Well-Known Member
Surprising number of learning disabled people on this forum, apparently. What part of my explanation of the difference between drying and curing went over your heads, all of it? BTW, the first sign of learning disability is not being able to spell the name of the nation Colombia.
I'm aware there are errors as I replied on my phone and didn't care enough to correct them, wasted enough time responding to your stupidity. Your level of maturity is well represented in this one statement...
 
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