Real Organics

UVB is very heavy in the blue side, but instead of focusing on a wavelength like 380, I just prefer to use 10,000kelvin. It great for starting seedlings but I wouldn't use it for more than 1 or 2 weeks. The real benifit is in flower. The UV actually stresses the plant and as a natural defence the plant will create more resins, as to act as a sunscreen. So for this reason I use it the last 2 weeks of flower as a ripening bulb.

I into plantmaxx as well
your bulb intrigues me grandpa...........i wonder if i can source a similar 400 version?

Do you know that i asked here alot about 2-3 months ago about pulse starts........none had a clue.

VTMi'kmaq said:

OK good so they do make 4 footers, that's either a t-8 or a t-5 im guessin............me likes........grandpa, just for shits and giggles i gotta ask......did you get the trichs off the larf buds of is this a 100% recycling endeavor lol?

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Lol, well i pick my battels. The trics are there, but everything got ground and chopped up as fine as I could get it by hand. I always have a supply and it will take me years to run out, so yes it is a recycling effort but only what I didnt care to keep or use. On the bright side, my soil doesn't smell like mushrooms anymore. It's now Stanky dank dirt. Lol. This shit reeks like buds.

VTMi'kmaq said:

I into plantmaxx as well
View attachment 3531388 View attachment 3531389 your bulb intrigues me grandpa...........i wonder if i can source a similar 400 version?

View attachment 3531394 View attachment 3531395 Do you know that i asked here alot about 2-3 months ago about pulse starts........none had a clue.

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Yes they certainly do have pulse start in 400 and the UV bulbs too. I like plantmax and see no reason to spend $200+ on a stupid light bulb. Some swear by hortilux and so on but really at the end of the day it's the spectrum that were after and not the name.

not that lumens are the be all end all but the plantmaxx 400 has more lumens than the blue horti anywho! I have owned this 400 plantmaxx for 2 months and i am truly a believer! Grandpa thankyou for being so helpful! I enjoy your tutiledge!

VTMi'kmaq said:

not that lumens are the be all end all but the plantmaxx 400 has more lumens than the blue horti anywho! I have owned this 400 plantmaxx for 2 months and i am truly a believer! Grandpa thankyou for being so helpful! I enjoy your tutiledge!

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Anytime brother!

Grandpa GreenJeans said:

UVB is very heavy in the blue side, but instead of focusing on a wavelength like 380, I just prefer to use 10,000kelvin. It great for starting seedlings but I wouldn't use it for more than 1 or 2 weeks. The real benifit is in flower. The UV actually stresses the plant and as a natural defence the plant will create more resins, as to act as a sunscreen. So for this reason I use it the last 2 weeks of flower as a ripening bulb.

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this is what my friend was telling me to research the other day. bitchin. i may pick up one of those as a finisher as well. he said he saw a difference in the density of trich counts in the scope. i bet he didnt know it stresses the plant though. im gonna do some more reading on this when i get a chance.

It's based of the notion of Indicas and their resin production abilities. For example, a kush that is high up in the mountains is at a elated altitude. They are in relation to sativas, much closer to the sun. Now blue light is short wave and red is long wave. The further from the sun the further the wavelength has to travel. Sativas don't get bombarded like the Indicas. Hence the "hash plant", and it being a favorite with hash makers. Morocco is know for its hashish and south America is not.

Grandpa GreenJeans said:

It's based of the notion of Indicas and their resin production abilities. For example, a kush that is high up in the mountains is at a elated altitude. They are in relation to sativas, much closer to the sun. Now blue light is short wave and red is long wave. The further from the sun the further the wavelength has to travel. Sativas don't get bombarded like the Indicas. Hence the "hash plant", and it being a favorite with hash makers. Morocco is know for its hashish and south America is not.

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makes perfect sense to me.

so really the UVB would be most beneficial pushing sativa strains to the max... or it would seem anyway

ShLUbY said:

makes perfect sense to me.

so really the UVB would be most beneficial pushing sativa strains to the max... or it would seem anyway

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Yes and no. If its flower for smoking then id say its the individuals preference. If making concentrates, then absolutly yes.
UVB doesnt make the potency go up, just the resin production. When you look at the overall volume of organic matter in a bud in relation to the resin, what we consider to be super dank and frosty is just a higher concentration of resin, not potency. Potency is strictly genetic and can vary depending on enviromental and nutrient. But to a hash maker, resin is everything and potency is a bonus. Mix the two and you have a plant thats ideal for UVB.

Oh, I almost forgot.... Sativas have small glandular heads, whereas indicas have larger heads. This can also give the apperance of low resin, but if its a good pheno and it was properly grown, even the not so frosty sativas can blow your mind. comming in at 28 or 30% THC, rendered in concentrate form this shit is KILLER comming in at 70- 90% THC

Grandpa GreenJeans said:

Oh, I almost forgot.... Sativas have small glandular heads, whereas indicas have larger heads. This can also give the apperance of low resin, but if its a good pheno and it was properly grown, even the not so frosty sativas can blow your mind. comming in at 28 or 30% THC, rendered in concentrate form this shit is KILLER comming in at 70- 90% THC

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yeah the smaller heads allow them to be more dense in numbers from how i understood it before. i get what you mean about the potency, more heads just means more mass of THC, but the potency is the same. thanks.

Well, I think its time to hit the peppers with some real nutrient levels. The cots are yellowing and its their way of saying, im out of food asshole, feed me. They're already producing flowers, but they just started. Some kelp and a good dose of some PK should do the trick.
Peppers are indeterminate and grow while they fruit, so nutrient management isn't the same as a determinate variety, like cannabis. They have to get a dual purpose fertilizer. Something like 5-5-5 to start. Once they are larger and laden with blooms they'll need slightly higher PK over N. The purple streaks in the stem are common anongst pepper plants and usually signifies water stress or a need for extra P. And sure enough, they're blooms so I'd say it's a need for some P.

Whipping up some tea for the peppers.
This is a very basic one at that. Started with:
4L of RODI 0ppm
30ml of FPE (V) @100ppm
30ml of FPE (B) @200ppm
45ml of EJ catalyst @150ppm
30ml of Age Old Kelp @150ppm
5ml of Blackstrap
Aerobic/flaculative anerobe/phototropic/yeast inoculate.

12 hr in, and pH is still a tad to low, but the biofilms are impressive for 12 hrs and a pH of 4.7
This one's gonna overflow foam before it's done.

grandpa you never shut off that germicidal bulb right?

ShLUbY said:

grandpa you never shut off that germicidal bulb right?

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I do shut it off. I have it on a short interval timer with a photo sensor. I haven't had to turn it on yet as there no real reason for me to right now. But when the odor arrives, then yes. I like to set the timer for 15min on/ 1hr off. Too much ozone will cause tiny copper dots on the plant leaves, very similar look to a calcium deficiency.

And when it is on, and I have to go in the room, I turn it off. Your eyes are the main saftey concern and the UVA is very bad for humans. Ozone has a very distinct smell to it and is unmistakable once you smell it, you'll never forget.

Grandpa GreenJeans said:

I do shut it off. I have it on a short interval timer with a photo sensor. I haven't had to turn it on yet as there no real reason for me to right now. But when the odor arrives, then yes. I like to set the timer for 15min on/ 1hr off. Too much ozone will cause tiny copper dots on the plant leaves, very similar look to a calcium deficiency.

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that was my concern was the ozone. cause i was gonna get an ozone generator off amazon, and run it for 10 min with the exhaust fan off before lights out, and then have it shut off and resume the fan and stuff after, as i know ozone can burn or even kill plants.

I have some powder mildew infections on a couple of plants. on my 9lb hammer, i think i must have brought it in from my vegetable garden this year with a draft of air or on my clothes or something because the PM was HORRENDOUS outside this year.

But my friend received some plants that had PM (no signs showing at the time) and it ended up taking over his whole garden because he chose to not do anything about it. I got a couple cuts of his confidential cheese before the PM even showed face in his room, and I never saw the PM on that strain in my garden until right before i put it into flower; it reared its little conidiophores on just a couple leaves. he also had a tray of clones that were solid genetics: GG#4, querkle, and a really killer sour D that's been around for about 10-12 years. he was gonna toss them and I'm like no, i'll see what i can do and keep them under quarantine. the clones had a little PM showing, but nothing that couldn't be washed off and treated so i took them in. they are looking great!!!! but i know they still have the systemic fungi in there

So i've been very effectively keeping the mildew breakouts from happening. once i see a little area developing, even if just on one leaf, i will wipe it down with a damp paper towel so i dont spread spores everywhere and then pull the plants outta the room and spray them down. what has worked REALLY well for me is the neem oil/bicarbonate mixture. it stops a PM breakout dead in its tracks, well very small breakouts lol. it was lasting the better portion of a week until i sprayed an aloe foliar and had PM breakout within 36 hrs. i think the aloe foliar washed away the neem/bicarbonate that was working. haven't had to test on major breakouts cause i've been on top of it thankfully. if the leaves were too far infested i'd just remove them anyway but i don't like to do that because, obviously, that's how the plant feeds itself lol.

what are your experiences with battling PM in a greenhouse/indoor garden....?

Grandpa GreenJeans said:

And when it is on, and I have to go in the room, I turn it off. Your eyes are the main saftey concern and the UVA is very bad for humans. Ozone has a very distinct smell to it and is unmistakable once you smell it, you'll never forget.

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yeah i have some polarized glasses i can wear in there. one dude who recommended the ozone generator said it makes your room smell like a hospital... sterile!