Kumarollitup
Active Member
Its your humidity level you need to change not your temp. 30-50% will kill and keep back mold,pm. If you still have issues get a sulfur burner,use it a few times and you will never have mold again.
Runtz try three
- Thread starter rmax
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weedstoner420
Well-Known Member
That doesn't sound bad. I think this last run I had like a 7°F total swing over the whole grow, maybe 3-4°F on a given day (my tent is in the basement and doesn't heat up very much with lights on) and I didn't have any issues with the small swing.
I disagree. It's called Relative humidity for a reason, because it's Relative to the air temperature. If the amount of water vapor in the air stays constant, but the temperature goes down, the RH goes up.
I also disagree about low humidity killing back mold and PM. There are plenty of threads on here where folks get mold or PM and say their humidity is usually 30-40%, and also plenty where folks run 60-70% all through flower and don't get mold. Once it germinates and gets established, PM will happily continue to grow at very low RH.
The times where I've gotten mold bad, I had multiple humidity/temp spikes happen during late flower, and it still spread even though my RH was low (<50%) the rest of the time.
weedstoner420
Well-Known Member
No
Right now the tent temp is 77.9°F. At the end of the lights on tent heat could hit a high of 79.1°F.
Heat was changed and is now set @ 77°F with a 2°F heating difference.
According to the VPD tool at this temp RH should be 70% (for early growth stage). Tent humidity is set to 65%
Should I increase humidity? Have faith in the tools.
VPD Chart
Vapor pressure deficit (VPD) chart & calculator for horticulture in controlled environment. Cannabis, tomatoes, leafy greens, cucumber.
weedstoner420
Well-Known Member
I'd say you're fine where you're at, but if you have the technology to bump it up to 70, why not? Vpd is for "optimum" growth, but you can go pretty far outside the "ideal" range and still do okay.Right now the tent temp is 77.9°F. At the end of the lights on tent heat could hit a high of 79.1°F.
Heat was changed and is now set @ 77°F with a 2°F heating difference.
According to the VPD tool at this temp RH should be 70% (for early growth stage). Tent humidity is set to 65%
Should I increase humidity? Have faith in the tools.
View attachment 5268054
VPD Chart
Vapor pressure deficit (VPD) chart & calculator for horticulture in controlled environment. Cannabis, tomatoes, leafy greens, cucumber.vpdchart.com
Therrion2
Member
It took me over 20 years to become good at growing. When I started , there wasn't a lot of material out there and you could go to jail for a long time. Here in the southeast, you had bible beaters that would rat you out in a heartbeat while they sip whiskey. When we got our first hydro shop, undercover would sit in the parking lot. I must of killed the first 10 crops I grew. It didn't matter if it was soil or hydro, I just sucked at it. Cloning? Forget about it. I would take breaks and try to study any material I could get my hands on. I would read posts from overgrow and RIU, with very little interaction. Fast forward today and I can pull 7 to 9lbs on a 4' x 8' flow table without breaking a sweat. I hope it doesn't take you as long and you're smarter than me. It shouldn't with all the available material and relaxed laws. The one pitfall is gimmicks and theoreticals with very little practical application for a home grow. Learning to put your money where it counts and not financially breaking yourself on useless junk products is a must. There's a lot of that out there. One of the huge things I have found is that in hydro, bloom boosters are bullshit. You risk getting very little results to outright burning your plants. The money is better spent with beneficial bacteria, which have greatly improved the health of my plants. I run jacks 321 from clone to finish at the same strength. Nothing I've used comes close to the results and it's much cheaper than all this high priced bullshit. You'll notice a lot of people's plants look burned the fuck up at finish. It's not supposed to look like that. I have also found that if you don't overfertilize and cut out your silica back halfway through or two weeks before finish, there is rarely a need to flush. There's a lot of little things you can do to make a huge difference without spending a ton of money. Understanding airflow and the need to move moist air rapidly and unrestricted was a huge game changer for me as it pertains to bud density and overall health. You can have a good dehumidifier, but if the moist air can't escape because your foliage is too dense, it's not able to properly do it's job. You use soil and I'm strictly hydro, so I'm not the one to talk to for advice on that, but feel free for anything else. Keep at it and tackle one issue at a time. Don't get overwhelmed and discouraged by negative people. Nobody leaves the womb knowing how to grow. It will eventually all click in your head.
Marq1340
Well-Known Member
I understand being eclectic in the learning process, but you can't let every Tom, Dick, and Hurry that comes along have you changing things up off of a single comment/suggestion. I've also personally grown with a pH of 8.0(room temp) from the tap and haven't had a problem. Don't go looking for problems that don't exist because it'll only cause real problems.
Complete the entire grow process if possible. You've learned a lot in from seedlings to veg but still have flower, harvest, and drying to go.
Good comment. I think there is something to PH'ing and that's why I emailed FF. It's the last thing I need to do at this point.
I was trying to reinstall the wire that flew out based on the twisted shape of the wire. It's color coded so only two guesses but then I noticed two more connectors disconnected.
Since I didn't pay anything for this light I may just shitcan it. But now I'll need another light.
Since I didn't pay anything for this light I may just shitcan it. But now I'll need another light.
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Marq1340
Well-Known Member
IDK how you ended up there but if it isn't warranted or you aren't certified as a electrician then just toss it. The gains to losses ratio is off the scales.
It looks worse than it is.... but I'll keep my eye on The Best Deals Thread and hope for a Spring sale soon.
Operation Transplant was a success (transplanted 3/1). Thanks everyone!
A pic of the fluffiest plant.
Notice the overall pic.
Canopy top is 24" from fixture and lux is about 30k.
About 12" of grow height where lux is about 70k.
As the plants get taller penetration will fade outside of that 12" thick zone. If the plants are trained to be flat/wider the footprint of the light will be too small.
Do you see the "Magic Trapezoid" (but from the top view of the light it's a pyramid).
I think this light is good for one large, flat plant.
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18 days since transplant - less than 3 weeks. What a turn around. Thanks everyone.
I'm thinking of flipping these next Friday into Saturday because I don't know what to expect for size. Five plants have been topped twice while one was topped only once.
I've been told that FFOF has about 4 months of power. If these get flipped next Friday that leaves about 3 months (12+ Weeks) of power which should get the plants through with minimal supplemental ferts.
Should these plants get transplanted from these 3 gal. pots to 5 gal. pots before the flip?? Transplant could potentially help root zones and rejuvenate the soil power back to new.
Heading to the $1.25 store later today for labels. The plan is to label these pots for cloning purposes and if any of these plants are magic I'll have the formula. If no magic I'll buy more seeds in that future.
I'm thinking of flipping these next Friday into Saturday because I don't know what to expect for size. Five plants have been topped twice while one was topped only once.
I've been told that FFOF has about 4 months of power. If these get flipped next Friday that leaves about 3 months (12+ Weeks) of power which should get the plants through with minimal supplemental ferts.
Should these plants get transplanted from these 3 gal. pots to 5 gal. pots before the flip?? Transplant could potentially help root zones and rejuvenate the soil power back to new.
Heading to the $1.25 store later today for labels. The plan is to label these pots for cloning purposes and if any of these plants are magic I'll have the formula. If no magic I'll buy more seeds in that future.
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Nope_49595933949
Well-Known Member
Can we give them 2 weeks before flip. Those are looking great man, what a turn around!
It's not urgent that they be flipped and flipping can wait until April 1st, or longer. I've never had plants in this good of condition so don't know what to expect in size. LOL
weedstoner420
Well-Known Member
Very nice and healthy!
The "this soil has enough nutrition for x number of weeks/months" thing really depends on the plant size and container size. Bigger plants and/or smaller containers, that number goes down.
I'd plan on either potting up before flower, or figuring out a feeding regimen (dry or liquid), cuz I doubt they will last 4 months in only 3 gallon pots without additional nutrition.
Nope_49595933949
Well-Known Member
I'd let them get a little bigger, maybe train them a bit and then let her rip. If height becomes an issue you can super crop.
ALPHA.GanjaGuy
Well-Known Member
You could also do some lst on them and open them up before flipping in a few weeks