Sativied's Picture Journal

Some pics that may be helpful:


Aqua pump is actually inside my rez submerged.

This is how it was in my smaller closet, with the elbows at the same side.



^^ Picture from before I started flooding and before I could order real net cups


I got that cap at the end, with the offset hole turned upwards to set the flow level inside the tubes to be slightly below the net cups.

I also highly recommend putting some pond liner at the bottom. No worries about water flooding out the closet:


Will post more tips in your thread, found it

Cheers lad ii that looks a bit better then my idea was gona be, still a week or so of reading and planning what size net pots u recommend I'm gona get them next couple days I think and sum capillary matting

That's some serious roots, nice rig.

Looking good. Lots of great new shots.

Figured it's about time I check when I switched to 12/12. Turns out it's 7 weeks ago tomorrow.

Only one that's going to stay in the running (for potential F2 parent) is P#1 (out of initial 12 P). Besides tri-whorled she has a bud structure I like a lot. Foxtailing yet compact. Easy trimming too. Definitely going to be the best yielder but means nothing at this point as P6 was a backup clone (later in tubes so slightly less vegged) and P5 is the fasciated and one of the others is P#1 too.



P#6. As you can see a little further along. Not a big yielder. Hardest/most dense nuggets I've grown. Little more frost on leaves but similar on calyxes of p1.


Another fast flowerer is the Late Night (named because it was significantly different that it's known parent and the other is uncertain).
Both mom (Chocolate Fondue x Unknown) and sisters of dad (Cannalope Haze, granddad of Chocolate Fondue) were actual 8week phenos. Not surprising this one won't need more but I put this one on 12/12 way before it reached maturity, not even really in veg stage yet.



Despite not taking good care of it I'm very happy with how it looks. The mom is right in the back of the next pic, which was my initial seed run, after removing male:


Plant below "CH" is the main female I used for CHxCH. (ICE behind it) Notice the two in the shadow left in the back, both Chunk, increased about 1000% in size since flip... The Chunk outlined is the female of P (Chunk x CH).

thanks for the advice sat. so do you basically run 33% for each A, B, and GHE fluoro the whole way through, as the base nutes to get a better balance? Do you also leave out any of the H&G line? Believe you said no to amino and algen

I leave everything out of the H&G line except A&B and drip clean. None of the other products provides something essential that isn't in AB already nor something I want in my sterile res.

youknowthekid! said:

do you basically run 33% for each A, B, and GHE fluoro the whole way through, as the base nutes to get a better balance?

Click to expand...

Not entirely, I start out with only AB (up till transition) and end with almost only GHE Bloom (last week-ish). During transition I start using a little GHE Bloom (mine is 1-5-3, noticed there's 1-5-4 or something like that as well). H&G AB is 5-3-7.

10-6-14 (2 parts H&G)
1-5-3 (1 part GHE Bloom)
11-11-17 (total)

In practice I'm not that exact with the nutes, but this is roughly what I will do next run (and pretty much what I did this run except for running lower this round).

Seedlings: (in DWC box) 350-450ppm H&G AB (NPK 5-3-7)
Vegging: (whether in DWC box or tubes) 450-550ppm H&G AB (NPK 5-3-7)
Transition: 450-550ppm H&G AB first few days-week, then with a part of GHE. About a quarter of AB in total, so NPK roughly 21-17-31, let's say 7-6-10 rounded. A little more K would have been better but it's an easy way to lower the N a little during transition. Or better said, to prevent it from being too high.
Early-mid flower: 450-550ppm H&G AB 66% of nutrient ppm and GHE bloom 33% NPK total 11-11-17. This is when refreshing, I add more GHE Bloom during the week than AB (only when PH gets unstable or suspect low N and Ca contents in rez).
Last weeks I use more like 2 part GHE Bloom and 1 part AB (while also adding a bit GHE Bloom when topping off and no AB).

So for the largest part of the flowering cycle it's indeed 33% for each, NPK 11-11-17. That gives me plenty of N to keep 'm green, and can add more GHE Bloom to bump the P a little later on. I.e. one more part GHE Bloom during that week results in an (leaving aside uptake difference since refresh) NPK of 12-16-20. One more would be 13-21-23. No need for PK boost and the AB + tap gives me all the micros and Ca+Mg I need.

Again, not a recommendation by any means, just what I do, and apparently it works (keeps plants short, green, frosty and yield plentiful quality).

Sativied said:

I leave everything out of the H&G line except A&B and drip clean. None of the other products provides something essential that isn't in AB already nor something I want in my sterile res.

Not entirely, I start out with only AB (up till transition) and end with almost only GHE Bloom (last week-ish). During transition I start using a little GHE Bloom (mine is 1-5-3, noticed there's 1-5-4 or something like that as well). H&G AB is 5-3-7.

10-6-14 (2 parts H&G)
1-5-3 (1 part GHE Bloom)
11-11-17 (total)

In practice I'm not that exact with the nutes, but this is roughly what I will do next run (and pretty much what I did this run except for running lower this round).

Seedlings: (in DWC box) 350-450ppm H&G AB (NPK 5-3-7)
Vegging: (whether in DWC box or tubes) 450-550ppm H&G AB (NPK 5-3-7)
Transition: 450-550ppm H&G AB first few days-week, then with a part of GHE. About a quarter of AB in total, so NPK roughly 21-17-31, let's say 7-6-10 rounded. A little more K would have been better but it's an easy way to lower the N a little during transition. Or better said, to prevent it from being too high.
Early-mid flower: 450-550ppm H&G AB 66% of nutrient ppm and GHE bloom 33% NPK total 11-11-17. This is when refreshing, I add more GHE Bloom during the week than AB (only when PH gets unstable or suspect low N and Ca contents in rez).
Last weeks I use more like 2 part GHE Bloom and 1 part AB (while also adding a bit GHE Bloom when topping off and no AB).

So for the largest part of the flowering cycle it's indeed 33% for each, NPK 11-11-17. That gives me plenty of N to keep 'm green, and can add more GHE Bloom to bump the P a little later on. I.e. one more part GHE Bloom during that week results in an (leaving aside uptake difference since refresh) NPK of 12-16-20. One more would be 13-21-23. No need for PK boost and the AB + tap gives me all the micros and Ca+Mg I need.

Again, not a recommendation by any means, just what I do, and apparently it works (keeps plants short, green, frosty and yield plentiful quality).

Click to expand...

honestly man it appears to work great, and is very inexpensive. I'm going to give it a shot and compare to the full H&G line. that's low ppm's though, don't you think? could the yield by greater with a heavier feed?

It's not a suitable run to really draw conclusions about the yield because 1 plant revegged, 1 hermied, 1 is fasciated (yield of that one sucks), and one was a backup clone with less vegging. I also didn't veg as long as I would if max yield were the goal. So, I have to judge it based on how the buds look and feel and the conclusion then is what you said:

youknowthekid! said:

honestly man it appears to work great, and is very inexpensive.

Click to expand...

There appears to be no difference with my 480ppm run, 650ppm run, and 1000ppm runs. Buds are dense and chunky and frosty and smell great. Had no deficiencies, on the contrary, still managed to burn the tips a little, some still a tad too dark green. If they all were clones of P#1 this probably would have been my best run.

And no, I don't think those ppms in particular are low. I actually ran 350ppm most of the current run and, those ppms already include 180ppm tap water. I do plan to aim a little higher next run, back to 450 probably. Also depends on what the plants indicate of course.

I could run 500-600 without topping off and still weekly use the same amount as topping off with nutes. I run lower partly because I spread it out rather than dumping the nutes for a full week in the rez at the start if the week. I will try to keep a log of how much nutes I use in ml next round.

Subbed. I had a fasciated plant this winter. I flowered it for a bit but pulled it at the end of the stretch when I saw how things were going. The top bud looked like a wooly bear caterpillar sitting there. I couldn't stand looking at it with that weird strappy stem.

Nice pix.

shnkrmn said:

I had a fasciated plant this winter. I flowered it for a bit but pulled it at the end of the stretch when I saw how things were going. The top bud looked like a wooly bear caterpillar sitting there. I couldn't stand looking at it with that weird strappy stem.

Click to expand...

Hey thanks for posting that. "a wooly bear caterpillar" indeed. At some point all the pistils became brown but it didn't swell up its calyxes.

I deliberately didn't train it initially cause I wanted to see its fasciated development but I highly recommend anyone with a fasciated plant concerned about yield simply top it because the terminal bud sucks. As a matter of fact, I scalped it. It's almost all leaves and as I predicted a week ago it started rotting, lost less than a gram of actual bud:



And more slaw from a bud caught between the fasciated and a normal.


Aux buds of it, although small, look fine, done soon:


Little pretaster of the de-nannered IH5, which is also almost done. Stripped it from its fan to reduce humidity and be able to inspect it easier. Actually, would be a great strain for defoliators because it's simply too leafy. Taste is quite interesting, sweet lemon, nothing like mom (ICE smell was bad) or dad (tropical/melon)



Group shots, 7 weeks+2days 12/12:


In front from left to right P#1A (only survivor for selecting this round), P#5 (fasciated), and P#6.


Fasciated encircled:

I have got so much to learn in here I can't wait to get this floor sorted and that over weekend then start on building my system

Late Night:


Only half as stretchy as its mom Smells exactly like Cannalope Haze non-haze pheno (dad) yet is more sativa. Which isn't a bad smell at all, but the only reason I use the stretchy mom for late night is it's unique sweet smell. I hope it will return in F2. Will plant a "few" more of these next round. It received mostly just a glass of my tubes nutrient solution, with a proper nutrient regime it would have done even better.



Will be harvesting the right side soon (P#5 fas, P#6 and IH#5). Left needs a bit longer (P#1A, B, and IH#1).

P#5 Fasciated (but normal aux bud) pretty much done.



P#1B. Finally some hot summer weather in the Netherlands, makes me happy but plants like it less, especially those closer to the bulb:



P#1A lower bud:

..

Very nice man, I'm just waiting these cuts to root so I can get going in fitting my new floor a bit higher then old 1 and make and easy access to the res underneath.... the store doesn't have the ballast till end month anyway so still got a good week of planning

Il draw up my ideas in a bit and get sum pics on

Sativied said:

Yes good clear examples. That Jamaican makes me drool. How did it taste?

Click to expand...

Jamaican grape pheno in the pics had a funky smell of pickled onions when growing , the taste was very much like juicy fruit chewing gum ,the high of this pheno was average nothing special
another pheno of this cross had better potency and a very high crystal coverage this one leaned more towards the grapefruit clone
i did not like the flavour of the grapefruit leaning pheno it was very harsh smoke on the inhale and exhale made me cough and taste very sour twangy grapefruit
the buds developed in a spiral pattern as the description from secret valley seeds describes
the spiral pattern of buds up the main cola was interesting to see grow
had not seen that before

peace

this is a good picture, it shows with good planing/spacing you don't need to pick leaves off
i am quite happy to leave as many leaves on as possible when things get crowded
tucking them out the way rather than picking them unless there is lots of overlap and moisture on leaves etc
i would not remove any leaves from this grow its keeping to a nice height the light can penetrate well
looks like nugs will have good consistency too

peace

skunkd0c said:

this is a good picture, it shows with good planing/spacing you don't need to pick leaves off

Click to expand...

Let's keep that in this thread, wouldn't want to reduce the number of defoliation threads

Edit: somehow that pic only shows up when I quote it, so for clarity, skunk's talking about this pic: http://rollitup.org/attachments/groupupdate14-jpg.3208632/

Seriously, thanks, I've said the same thing one of the last times I joined a defoliation discussion in a more serious attempt. It's all about plant spacing or more specifically, bud site spacing. If yield is such a concern that is

If this I I I I I I I I I I is a sog from the side, I basically try to achieve the same number of main bud sites but creating U U U U U instead of V V V V V, and then at the base of the U I strip everything (some take that too far and call it lollypoping...) That's also why I prefer topping+LSTing the remaining branches early on, so I don't get V V V V V or worse XZZXZ (crop+scrog+LST+topping ).

skunkd0c said:

looks like nugs will have good consistency too

Click to expand...

Haven't checked the bottom of IH#1 yet but if it's like the rest there's little to no popcorn in this grow. Smaller nuggets lower down but still nuggets and easy to trim.

And thanks for the info on the Jamaican.

P#6, couple of days left:


Next is the plant that hermied (IH#5), I removed some of the fans so I could inspect it for nanners better and later removed most to lower the humidity, basically sacrificing this failed one for the others (already done in the group shot above). It's a good example of bad genetics in this context, too leafy and annoying long petioles, one for which some defoliation (when cropped/scrogged) could help prevent a negative outcome.



P#1A again. Easy to claim now but as you can see no heat stress....this bud was on the left side below multiple layers of leaves and in the shadow of several other bud sites:

They look great try oxygen in you res! I just bought some about to experiment

Thanks thump, let me know how that works out for you.